SureCall Flare 3.0 Cell Phone Signal Booster for Home & Office up to 3500 sq ft, Boosts 5G/4G LTE, Yagi Outdoor Antenna, Multi-User, Verizon AT&T Sprint T-Mobile, FCC Approved, USA Company

I started my home booster adventure with a WeBoost Connect 4G and ended up returning it because it couldn't handle the fact that in my area we have Verizon and AT&T both operating LTE in the 700Mhz band, where they are right next to each other in the frequency spectrum. The AT&T signal comes in a bit stringer than Verizon and I need Verizon, but for the WeBoost these are indistinguishable. The result was that the WeBoost didn't amplify the Verizon LTE signal enough causing my phone to stick to 3G (which is in a different band).I purchased the SureCall unit because of the manual gain adjustments, which I expected would let me tune down the 3G signal so my phone would actually hop to 4G giving me decent data transfer rates. The short of the story is that (a) the per-band tunig does work and help, (b) the LED indicators are much more informative allowing me to understand what is happening much better, and (c) this booster provides some degree of distinction between the two adjacent LTE carriers. This unit is also much better built being all-aluminum and the exterior Yagi has higher gain. I have had several email exchanges with the SureCall support and got great responses. The only downside is that I got the version with the little indoor omni instead of the panel antenna and the panel is better. But I am now buying a ceiling dome, which I hope to be better than either of the other two.In summary, if you're hesitating between the WeBoost Connect 4G and the SureCall Fusion4Home I would recommend the SureCall.One thing that is somewhat confusing is what the various LED flash patterns really mean. There is a yellow insert sheet that describes them, but it's a bit incomplete. Here are a few more notes:- If an LED is OFF it means that the booster is operating in that band at the gain set by the dial, i.e., it's doing great (this state is completely missing from the docs).- If an LED is flashing YELLOW it means that automatic gain control (AGC) is reducing the gain (amplification) in that band below what is set because of feedback between the indoor and outdoor antennas. If you want a stronger indoor signal you need to increase separation.- If an LED is flashing RED it means that AGC is reducing the gain in that band below what is set because the signal from the tower is too strong (I suspect the reduction is primarily on the transmit-to-tower side).In my configuration I'm having insufficient antenna separation for maximum amplification and I'm not that far from towers so what I observe is the following. If I turn the gain for a band all the way down the LED becomes red indicating that the band is off. As I turn up the gain the LED goes to blinking red indicating that the tower signal is strong and AGC is limiting the gain (I presume in the transmit to tower direction). As I turn the gain up further the LED switches to blinking yellow indicating that AGC is also limiting the gain transmitting indoors due to feedback between the two antennas. All this has allowed me to learn much more about what is really happening and I have been able to tune the bands so everything works OK for me. The next step will be to purchase a ceiling dome antenna for indoors because it radiates much less upwards to where the outdoor antenna is. The alternative would be to relocate or raise the outdoor antenna, which is more difficult for me.Update may 2017: the booster is still working well for me. I ended up purchasing an indoor dome antenna in order to increase the separation between the outdoor antenna on my roof and the indoor antenna. I selected a "DomeAnt-Alpha Omnidirectional Ceiling Antenna for Boosters, Amplifiers, Repeaters" after contacting WirEng and getting confirmation that this antenna has the least upwards radiation, i.e., interferes the least with the outside antenna above my roof. This antenna made a big difference for me.

Do you have crummy service and are desperate for improvement?Do you have patience and problem solving abilities?Have you been scouring the internet for reviews on cell boosters to decide which to blow hundreds of dollars on? Well I did and I got it right on the first purchase in my small A-frame home in rural Alaska, here’s what I can share:Get the Flare 3.0 with Yagi directional antennae (the pointy one). Decide how you’re going to mount this antennae, we did galvanized steel pipe with an elbow joint so it’s super easy to rotate the antennae for fine tuning. Also mount it somewhere that it’s not a huge pain to rotate this thing, you’ll be doing it A LOT in the beginning. We mounted ours outside an upstairs window, within reach from inside house.Hunt down your carriers nearest cell towers. Cellreception.com (other sites exist too, give it a google) has good maps you can then pinpoint over in google maps. Google maps usually has a little blue triangle that tells you which direction your phone is pointing - this is huge to make sure your antennae is pointing right at the cell tower. Line up the direction your phone and the antennae are pointing. Try a couple different towers, sometimes based on topography/tower strength a slightly farther tower could be better.Download the OpenSignal app and use it A LOT. Run the speed test in areas that do have cell service to help you hone in on what to expect. Run the test all over the house, the yard, etc. Goal is to find part of your house/yard that has a bit of service, set the antennae there and point it STRAIGHT at the carrier’s tower. Connect the coax cable and power cord to the Flare device.Now you’ll probably end up with the yellow flashing lights of oscillation death. You’ll learn to understand, accept and befriend this flashing yellow punk. Oscillation happens when the signals put off from antennae and indoor device interfere (like when you bring microphone too close to an amplifier and get that terrible feedback noise, same concept). The manual will tell you to eternally move your indoor device (the Flare) farther away. Before you know it you’ll be three towns over and the light will still be flashing “too close”.Here’s some solutions to oscillation:- Move the devices further apart- vertical vs horizontal distance have greatly different effects. Moving one or both devices away from each other vertically works better than horizontally- Place indoor device so antennae direction is exactly opposite, so Flare is “behind” yagi antennae (but also hopefully below and 20ish feet away)- Put something metal between antennae and indoor device - careful here because you don’t want that metal to also block the indoor device from sending signals to your phone! I used a cast iron pan for a while when troubleshooting and it worked well- Finally the best advice we found, place the Flare directly blow the Yagi antennae. If you think of how signal would wave out of an antennae, the space right beneath it gets almost no waves, in this situation ground zero is a good place to be.We now have significantly better service after lots of tweaking our setup. We still have the flashy yellow, but it’s a slow flash. The goal is to get away from the red+yellow flash of death (means oscillation so severe the system shuts off). Yellow means there is oscillation and the more rapid the flashing the worse it is. You can get good service on slow flash yellow, use the app and move indoor device around (with tips above) to fine tune this for your home.Good luck and god speed friends. Make a plan for the places you’ll try placing the antennae/indoor device and have patience. Having better cell service is magical, but it comes with lllllots of troubleshooting and trying new tactics. Keep an eye on your 30 day window and when in doubt, send it back for a replacement.