PemkoAluminum Automatic Door Bottom, Mill Finish, PemkoPrene, 9/16”W x 36"L x 1-3/8”H (411APKL36)

This was just what was needed for sloped floor on a 120 year old house.

This works as expected. It took some effort to install since I'm only mildly handy with routers and the like, but for anyone with some experience, it should be a breeze to install. As a word of caution, as I was about to route the mortise, I realized that the magnet for the security system was in the way. I had to call my security provider to move the wired door jamb unit up and install a new magnet in the door higher up. Luckily, they did not charge me for this, but you might want to think of this before the door is off the hinge.

The Pemco drop down door sweep works great! It's a bit of work and skill to set up a router to cut a 9/16" groove into the door bottom, but it's worth it.When the door is open the sweep tucks up into the door and doesn't drag on the floor. When the door is closed the sweep is actuated by an adjustable knob that pushes against the door jamb on the hinge side , dropping the sweep into place.I have used these quite often .

We have a bunch of these that were installed in my wife's day spa by the previous owners about 7 years ago. So as you can imagine, pretty heavily used, and when they are working right, they definitely do the trick, and it's a neat concept. We purchased 6 new ones after some internet research on what exactly was previously installed to make the replacement simple. They definitely went in with no issues, and after some adjustments they seem to work again.There are a couple of downsides however. First, some of the internal parts are made of plastic. After repeated opening and closing, combined with a few years, the plastic gets a bit brittle, and it's the part that fails. When it fails, they only come down on the side where the piston is. In all 6 of the ones we replaced, they all failed in the same place, essentially ensuring that they would only close on half of the doorThe second downside is that they do need adjustment, and it seems to be more than just set it and forget it. You get it working with no issues, open and close it a dozen times, then it may (or may not) get sticky and not fully close.Admittedly, they are used way more than an average homeowner, but for an industrial piece like this, it's disappointing that Pemko uses plastic for a couple of key stress points. I'd pay a few bucks more for one that was all metal.

Excellent product. They are a little tricky to install because you need to cut a deep recess in the bottom of the door, but it is the perfect solution when you don't have a raised threshold.

Works as described. If you want a floor sealing weather strip this is what you can use. It retracts when the door is opened thus not dragging on the floor. You so have to dado a groove into the bottom of the door so some wood working skill is necessary. I am using in it an unconventional way, to seal a sliding barn door closure to prevent air loss into an upstairs office.

Update: I called Pemko and the customer support person was very helpful. First off, she said that the box should have absolutely come with instructions. I received nothing but a part. She was not surprised that this was the case, and said it's better to use one of their trusted distributors. Second, and this is crucial, **the part can only be trimmed 2 inches**. Look at the part number, on this listing. At the time of my purchase, it was 411APKL36. Note the 36 at the end, that means the minimum that this part will work with is a 34 inch door. I cut mine down to 28" and broke the part in the process. She recommended I find a distributor that sells 411APKL28 and get a refund from Amazon.Original review:This thing does not work as advertised. First, they give you no instructions whatsoever other than a red strip around one end of the part that says "do not cut this end". I put a mortise into the bottom of my door. This alone is somewhat tricky. The slot has to be deep (1 3/8), so you need a few passes. You need to use a straight bit and a fence, and adjust the fence slightly for multiple passes to get the required width and depth if you only have a 1/2" bit like I did (you need 9/16"). Go slow and don't chip anything out on the faces of the door! This takes a bunch of time, and it will all be worth it, you say, for sealed doors.So now that you've gone through the hassle of taking off the door, getting the gap between the door and floor completely uniform, and putting a slot in the bottom of your door, you are ready to cut! I cut on the side that didn't have tape marked "Do not cut this end" and guess what? The part no longer worked. The plunger offers no resistance because there is nothing for the internal band to push against.I fiddled with it further by taking it apart, and putting in a little stop bolt for the plunger to push the internal band into, which causes the internal band to arc up and drop the acoustic strip. The plunger now worked, but the strip drops in a non-uniform way. I saw a youtube video which claimed this was normal, and once installed in the door the strip would drop uniformly. Nope, it does not.Spent so much time on this, don't be like me. Buy something else. If any other commenter has a recommendation on something that worked for them, I'm all ears.

I bought a couple of these for my new house. Install involves cutting a slot in the bottom of the door with an aggressive router bit. I suggest practicing before you grind into the bottom of the door.One thing to be aware of.. If you have a 1 3/8 door thickness you will need Pemko K411 end plates. They do not come with the standard kit.