eSUNeSUN PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament PETG, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, 1KG Spool (2.2 LBS) 3D Printing Filament for 3D Printers, Solid Grey

I've used this filament for quite a while now, the bulk of it I have used to print parts to upgrade my printer.I've had no specific issues with the filament, it seems to print very well on my Prusa MK3S+ and the colour is pretty nice.The only minus point is because the winding on the spool is terrible, it's atrocious, to the point that I've never seen spools from other manufacturers like this.This seems to be a common thing with eSUN filament, every spool I have and have opened has been badly wound...but...Yes, there's a but!The winding, although poor, has thus far just been cosmetic, bad winding is only really an issue if the winding has not gone onto the spool properly, a long as the filament is wound on without coming loose, then it will come off the same way.Generally speaking, when people moan or complain about badly wound spools, it's because of something they've done and not the manufacturer, it's pretty much impossible for the manufacturer to spool filament onto a reel in a manner than it will tangle on the way off the real.

Works well with my Prusa printer

I'm pretty new to 3D printing and generally use PLA, but wanted to try PETG for some prints that will be exposed to quite a bit of heat.In Cura, there is a eSUN PETG profile you can use, but I had to change the settings because I had quite a lot of issues with really bad stringing etc. The main one is the nozzle temperature, where I lowered it from 245 and 235 and the results seem a lot better. I still get stringing etc but not as bad, but I'm sure if I tweak the settings even more I should be able to get more decent results.I use a glue stick on my magnetic bed mainly to help remove the print afterwards.When I first started using this, on the initial layer the filament was just getting stuck to the nozzle as it moved and resulted in failed prints. I wondered why this was, as the bed was level for PLA. I read online that you want the nozzle a bit higher than for PLA, so what I did was level the bed and as soon as I felt the slightest bit of pressure on the paper used for levelling, I left it at that (a bit less pressure than normal levelling for PLA). This has fixed the issue and still sticks to the bed perfectly fine.It's annoying printing with PETG as I'm so used to pretty decent and easy prints with PLA, but it looks like it's a lot of trial and error - play around with settings etc until you get decent results.Highly recommend this particular filament if you're starting out with PETG - eSUN is a good and trusted brand when it comes to filament.

A couple of tests and the magic numbers became apparent. (Not that they are any secret they are pretty much what is recommended on the box), but just so it can be said to have been done, printer is just an Anet A8, no particular mods, bed is blue painters tape.Bed temp 80c throughout (this was to overcome warping but I feel I will be able to modify this with geometry changes to the items).Extruder temp 240c. Nothing fancy or special but I do find with this type of filament, especially if you are manually levelling the bed is to set that base layer layer very very small, almost having the nozzle scraping the blue tape, but much lower than I would for PLA or ABS. It seems to want to be hard "piped" onto the surface. That being said I'm not needing any stick glues or proprietary adhesion helpers. PETG always (to me) seems somewhat prone to stringing but those settings will be something you fine tune for your own set up.So tl:dr Bed 80c. Extruder 240c. Tight bottom later.Will buy again, consistent, quality product from a manufacturer I have found to be so in the past.

This was my first ever PETG filament, but as I have been getting amazing results with their PLA+ filament I thought I would try eSuns PETG.I have to say that 1st impressions were not good, I was really struggling to get good results at first, with problems with bad adhesion, blobbing, stringing, layer adhesion etc, however I now know this was all down to my configuration and not the filament.I am using and Ender 3D V2, and Cura as my slicer. After many different attempts I found that downloading eSuns material profile for PETG helped, but after some trial and error I find the optimum print temperature for my printer is 138 (profile default is 145) I guess there is some tolerance in the temperature calibration of different printers.I also found you have to print fine and slow. I have made the following adjustments to the default Cura Dynamic Profile0.16 layer height0.2 for 1st layerBuild Plate 70Print Speed 30Wall, Top/Bottom Speed 15Initial Layer Speed 15Number of slower layers 5Cooling 20IroningI also had to get me e steps and bed level spot on, any under extrusion really showed on large flat areas.I use the smooth side of a textured glass build plate, and cote with basic watered down PVA glue, for perfect adhesion when printing, but once cooled the print just falls off with no prizing required.So it took a fair bit of trial and error, but the results are now amazing, with very shiny and smooth top and bottom layers.

Every single 3d filament i used from from eSUN, i only have good things to say, print really well, does not retain moisture ( that much) sticks to the build plate, nice layer bonding!perfect product for hobbies and playing around, nice color accuracy as well.I really recommend and will keep buying.

It's absolutely the worst roll of filament I have ever purchased. Could not get a decent print until it sat in a filament dryer for 12 hours, then seemed to print ok, only to then find my print had failed because the filament was so poorly spooled, that it tied itself in a knot half way through a 5 hour print job. Complete waste of time and money. Will be going back to Polymaker filament. At least they seem to have a bit of quality control