Honeywell Home RPLS730B1000 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White

I installed this timer to control the exhaust fan in a walk-in closet. This walk-in closet has no windows and we are concerned about musty odors building up, and, the possibility of mold due to no air circulation. Our builder installed an exhaust fan with an on-off switch. We wanted to automate the fan and have it turn for several hours daily. We run it a few hours every day but sometimes forget to turn it off or on.This timer is exactly what we wanted. I installed it a few days ago and it's turning the fan on and off at the appointed times (7 AM - 5 PM). We can turn it on/off by pressing the cover, which activates switches in the timer.Here are some comments.MUST USE A TIMER THAT'S RATED FOR A MOTOR. There are a lot of timers out there, most of them control lights. A motor is different because, when the motor first starts, it draws a lot of current -- the startup surge -- then it draws only the amount of current needed to run. Lamp timers may not handle the startup surge. In fact, the first timer I bought (sent it back) said NOT FOR USE WITH MOTOR -- the warning was not in the description.WHICH IS THE LOAD, WHICH IS THE LINE? This timer has three wires that must be connected to NEUTRAL, LOAD (the motor, the light, whatever is being controlled) and LINE (the wire coming from the breaker, carrying current). the box where the switch being replaced was located were two cables, each with white (neutral), black (hot), and ground wires. I could not tell which cable came from the breaker box (line) and which went to the fan (load). SO -- this is what I did.-- Turn off power at the breaker.-- Remove the switch from the box.-- There I found: (1) two white wires tied together with a wire nut; (2) two black wires, one going to one switch terminal, one to another switch terminal.-- I disconnected the black wires from the switch and removed the wire nut from the white wires but left them twisted together.-- MAKE CERTAIN NONE OF THE WIRES IS TOUCHING ANYTHING -- pulled them out of the switch box so I could get to them.-- Went back to the circuit breaker box and turned the breaker on. CAREFUL -- THE WIRES HANGING OUT OF THE SWITCH BOX ARE NOw HOT.-- Used my volt meter -- set it on the 200volts AC scale. Hold one voltmeter lead onto the white wires, then touched the other lead to one of the black wires.-- One black wire will show voltage, the other will show no voltage. The one that shows voltage is the LINE lead because it's carrying voltage from the breaker. The black lead that shows no voltage is the LOAD, going to the fan, light, etc.-- Remember which black lead is which.-- TURN TO BREAKER OFF. Check to make certain there is no voltage on the leads -- voltmeter between white wires and one black wire, then, the other black lead . . . should show zero volts-- Label the LINE and LOAD leads. I used a small piece of duct tape for each with LINE and LOAD written on the tape.-- Wire the timer. (1) Tie the timer's white wire to the two white wires, using the wire nut that's already there. (2) Connect the BLUE wire coming from the timer to the LINE and the BLACK wire from the timer to the LOAD, using the two wire nuts supplied with the timer. (3) If your house has metal electrical boxes, ground the ground wire to the box. If plastic box, just push the ground wires out of the way.Hope this helps.

Works ok a little tricky to program it.

Great light switch timer that is a great alternative to overpriced smart switches. I was able to install 4 of these myself for my outdoor patio lights (easy to follow instructions on YouTube, but be sure you have the right equipment and you aren’t working with live wires— no contact voltage sensor is a must). Highly recommend!

I bought the "Easy Home" electrical box for my grandma to use, and it's been a good buy so far. She needed something to simplify some basic tasks around the house in terms of lighting, and this is delivering. It wasn't too hard to set up, but we did hire an electrician to be on the safe side. It has been working for over six months now with no issues, so I think it's a safe bet that it's going to be a keeper.There is one "flaw", but really, it's hardly worth mentioning because you probably have the solution in your pocket right now. Just so you're aware, though, it can be a little tough to see everything you're doing while you're setting it up. I would recommend using a flashlight to ensure you can really see what's going on. Who doesn't have a flashlight on their phone these days, though?

This thing is really cool. I wanted something that I could use to put my porch light on a timer with a CFL bulb, and this works perfectly.Some other available products (light sensors and other timers, including a Honeywell timer similar to this one) only work with incandescent bulbs, which defeats the purpose of putting lights on a timer to save energy. I could leave my 26-watt CFL (100w equivalent) on all day and still use less electricity than a 100-watt incandescent on an 8-hour timer.With this model, you can program either a single on/off cycle to repeat every day, or up to 7 separate on/off cycles for each individual day of the week. I think you can also set an every-day cycle and combine it with 6 additional day-specific cycles if you choose. The cover for the programming buttons also functions as the manual on/off button, and using it does not interfere with your programs.There is another model that works with CFLs -and- can be set to vary its on/off times to match your local daylight calendar (Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B 7-Day Solar Time Table Programmable Switch) but for the extra cost, I didn't need that feature.I had some trouble figuring out that you have to slide a toggle under the button cover to "ON" before the switch itself will work AT ALL. I thought that was a bit confusing in the instructions, so now you'll know. Programming is not very difficult but it took me a few tries to figure it out. When you are finished programming, just close the cover and press it once (as if you're turning the light on) to exit programming mode.To use this timer, you need to have a light switch where the power enters at the switch rather than at the light fixture. That's because the timer itself needs to have electricity constantly, in order to operate while the light is turned off. If your power enters at the light fixture instead, shutting off the light would also kill the power to the timer. Most houses are wired the correct way, which typically means at least 1 pair of black/white wires entering the switch box. If instead there is no white wire (i.e. neutral) at the switch, only two black wires or a black and a red, you won't be able to use this timer. (Note: There is no safety concern if your switch box doesn't contain a white neutral wire - it's just an antiquated wiring practice).As a side note, this switch has some sort of capacitor inside that saves your programs during power outages. It isn't a battery, so you would never need to replace it. It has worked fine through a couple of brief outages so far.Edit: Lost power for over a week from some nasty storms this summer (July 2012), but the timer remembered all of my programs and the clock was still correct. Awesome!