GPU Backplate Memory Radiator Aluminum Heatsink Cooler with Dual 70mm 4Pin PWM Cooling Fan and 1.2mm 7W Thermal Pad for Graphics Card RTX 3090

Without active backplate cooling, expect severe throttling when under load for Nvidia 30 series GPUs. I expect the same for the 40 series. Not sure why manufacturers failed to notice this issue for years but there are niche benchmarkers who clearly show severe throttling because of backplate heat -- they include heat imaging of the backplate too.The backplate heat on my 3050 card was extremely high and the way my case is, I couldn't get proper amount of air to flow over the backplate so I needed a backplate fan. Because I play games and stream I only use Nvidia GPUs, I don't know about AMD or Intel cards.Highly recommend this thing, works exactly as expected and thermal pads definitely do their job as well. I ran lots of benchmarks including physically measuring temperature of backplate. This fan prevents 95% of the throttling I experienced when benchmarking with Tomb Raider, Cyberpunk, Overwatch and Overwatch 2 at 165fps (and various other settings) on my Zotac 3050 card with a backplate. Note: Most games with decent settings obviously don't reach 165fps with 3050 card.This fan is too wide for the 3050 because my RAM is in the way but the only one I could find that would fit lengthwise so I strapped it on and it overhangs a bit at an angle.One thing to lookout for is the straps may block the fan and with mine (ZOTAC), it reported fan speed even though the fan was completely blocked by the fan strap -- visually make sure it doesn't block fans!I recommend you use this fan if you play games on an air cooled gpu.Note that I have other GPUs up to the 3090, and nothing comes close to heat transfer of watercooling the front and back of the GPU. However, because nobody makes water blocks for the 3050, I needed air cooling for this and this fan works exactly as I needed.This fan should even help Nvidia 30 series significantly if you have a front waterblock but couldn't get a backplate waterblock. Not only will it transfer the backplate heat but local airflow will help move any residual heat from the front/surrounding of the card to the rest of the case too.

Saw that a few others threw this on their 3090’s hot backplate, so gave it a whirl. I am impressed with the effect it had on GPU temps!I was running mine on normal (not overclocked) and would break 75c with 90% GPU utilization. I put this on, linked the fans to the GPU hotspot temp and didn’t break 68c overclocked at 103% (ave). I did use the bands and added a stronger brace.To share, my card is the ASUS ROG STRIX 3090 OC. I only applied to the solid backplate (where the vram heat sinks).Dropped a star cuz the heat tape stuff was tricky and the gloves are big enough for a small child lol.Hope this has some staying power….

I have an MSI 4090 liquid x suprim. Like many people with 4080s or 4090s the memory gets rather warm even if the unit is idle. In truth this is the fault of the manufacturers crumpling to the whining demands of their under educated consumers wanting whisper quiet PCs, so the default fan profiles are usually "shut off fans when not under load" and 50% MAX under full (500W+) load. One wonders why 12HVPWR connectors were melting. And why their GPUs will need serious thermal solution overhaul in a year. Ugh. Anyways, I saw this crazy YT by this guy complaining about the memory over heat (I wonder why? Maybe because the fans were idle?) So he showed how adept he is by disassembling this monstrously complex card just so he could replace some thermal pads and the thermal interface material. Then he did money shots of his work and cut. Didn't demonstrate if his changes made any improvements whatsoever. So I commented "or you could save yourself the terror of dissecting an $1800 card and get one of these, they're cheap, they're simple, there's many different variants, and they work" He deleted my comment. I guess he rather his fans awe over him than do the simple cheap easy AND SAFE thing. And this does make a HUGE difference. Unless your card is vertically mounted all you really have to do is wipe down the back of the card till it devoid of contaminants (doesn't have to be perfect). Use the radiator grill to eyeball a good location (if you have an nVME next to your card and RAM close by as well this is a good way to get them some extra breeze). If you want to be precise mark off edges with masking tape nibs. peel off protective plastic on the goo sheet and lay it in place however you feel safest doing that. Now hold BOTTOM of card with one hand and with opposite gently press the goo slab down firly along the entire surface before removing the top protective sheet. You can use a tool like a roller or a dowel or even a wooden spatula if you want to finesse it; even a small block of flat smooth edged wood would suffice. Finally remove top protective film, eyeball alignment and, again, holding from bottom, press the HS slab down, rolling or twisting it slightly to get the goo to stick. Plug in fan header to a straight 12V header, or use a fan dongle to molex/sata plug adapter. It's basically silent, it doesn't need a fan curve. Now use your preferred software to SET YOUR GPUs MINIMUM FAN SPEED TO 30% AND LOCK IT. When gaming SET IT MANUALLY TO 90 or 100%. Don't rely on the Manfacturer's fan curve. Congratulations, Ram is now silky 40C instead of simmering 75C at idle, and GPU under full load should not exceed 60-70C if manual fan rules are applied like religion.