Bench Dog Tools 40-102 ProMax Cast Iron Router Table Extension

The media could not be loaded. After reading reviews and watching whatever video's I could find on this Router Table, I still had some questions. Now that I've purchase the Router Table I'd like to answer those questions. Although my answers will be focused around my setup, I will try to answer them for other setups. I have a Ridgid R4512 Cast Iron Table Saw, the RIDGID R29302 2 HP Multi Base Router Combo, and the RIDGID WD1450 shop vac. Yes, I like Ridgid. I have made a small film which I hope will clarify my answers even more. Let start with my main question:1. How will this Router Table mount to my Table Saw?This was my biggest concern. Initially I was wondering if I had to mount it to the left or right side of my table saw. I first thought it would be best mounted by rails to the right side of my table saw. But upon receiving the Router table, I found that the 6 holes (3 on either side) for mounting to the table saw rails did not line up correctly with the bolt slots on my rails. The holes were about 3mm to low. It would have installed 3mm higher than the surface of my table saw. I also became a little uncomfortable with that much weight so far out there on my rails. Yes the rails could support the weight, but I'd rather not.So I decided to use the more standard way of mounting it and that was to use the pre drilled holes on the back of the router table. There are seven large pre drilled holes. They are meant for two common setups; Table saws with 4 mounting holes or table saws with 3 mounting holes. My setup has 3 mounting holes. I knew I had to mount this 50lb router table myself, (no, my wife couldn't help, she's pregnant), so I grabbed a scrap 2x4 to help support it as I inserted the bolts. Surprisingly, the scrap 2x4 was the exact height I needed it to be, you'll need to cut yours if it isn't. Also, others and myself suggest using two 2x4s. I inserted the two outer most bolts first, made sure the top was level and flush with the table saw top and then tightened. The two bolts held it in place just fine. Now time for the center bolt... uh oh!Looking back at the manual it clearly states you cannot install the router table to the left side of a table saw that has a left tilting blade. This is because left tilting table saws bulge out a little bit on the left making it nearly impossible to screw in the center bolt. Why Bench dog couldn't have adjusted their design to make more space up there to do so, I don't know, this would be my first, but small, con. However, I did say "nearly impossible" because I found a way to do it. I had to use my original bolt that came with my table saw because it screwed in using a hex bit, which is small and done by inserting the bit into the center. The bolts that come with the router table require a 17mm wrench, way too big to get up there in the tinny space made by my left tilting table saw. I also had to use ¼ inch drive flex breaker bar in order to get in the tiny space and apply enough side force to tighten the bolt. I wouldn't say it's as tight as the outer bolts, but it is definitely tight. I am still on the lookout for a bit head that is shorter than what I currently have, this would allow me to get it even more tight because of the extra space that would be provided. So I now have the router table installed on the left side of a left tilting table saw. If you have a 4 hole set up, both of your center holes would have to be tightened in the small space created by the bulge. If you don't have a left tilting table saw and are installing on the left side, your life will be allot easier, at least as far as that center bolt/s go/es.SPECIAL NOTE: If you have a large router and a left-tilting table saw, you may have issues installing the router table on the left side. My small 2hp Ridgid router fits with space to spare, but bigger routers may have trouble.I can say after having mounted it that it is flat as can be and I was able to make it flush with my table saw. There was still room to nudge it into a more perfecteous alignment, if there is one. All in all I have no complaints with how flat it is and how well you can align it to you table saw.2. Is it easy to and what is the best way to align the router plate?I wouldn't say it's easy to align the router plate. But it wasn't a difficult task either and the fact that you have 10 alignment screws and can achieve perfection is awesome. I did it by first raising the screws so that the router plate was just below the top of the router table, eye-balling of course. Then, one by one, going around the rectangle, I adjusted each alignment screw sequentially. I ran a board across the top at each location as I adjusted it to make sure it could pass over without catching yet did not dip. This method seemed to work for me. I'd be happy to hear anyone else's methods.3. How do I align the fence accurately for a cut?This is probably a naive question, but I'm pretty new to these tools and honestly, it was a question I had before buying it, so I don't want to leave it out. However, I think it was the manual that suggested I use a combination square, and to my luck, I had recently purchased one for the assembly of my table saw. With a combination square, all you have to do is select the distance you want, then place it on either side of the router table, using the front side of the router table as a guide, and pulling the fence to meet the ruler portion of the square. Do this of course on both the right and left outer edges of the front side. This is such an easy and accurate process, I was very happy. I honestly thought I was going to have to do some crazy measuring technique with a measuring tape, which would work, just not as quick and has a greater chance of inaccuracy.The fence it self is pretty hefty. When tightened down it will not budge. Everything on it is adjustable. For a larger size bit, all you need to do is loosen the back tightening T-bolts and slide the wooden guides out, for a smaller bit, slide em in. Don't forget to tighten. The orange bit protector is nice and the shop vac adapter works great with my Ridgid shop vac. I would say it gets 90%+ of all saw dust. The extra fence slots on the router table are nice to achieve high angles.4. Will I need to drill any holes to install my router?If your router is on the list Bench Dog supplies, and you purchase the corresponding router plate, no, you will not have to drill any holes. I purchased the Ridgid Combo router knowing I was probably going to get this router table. I didn't need an ultra-powerful router so I went with a 2hp group A router and ordered the corresponding group A plate. It matched up perfectly. My router has a height adjustment that, when installed on a router table, can be accessed from above using a T shaped tool. The tool of course has to go through the router plate. The plate, thoughtfully, has the hole exactly where it needs to be for me to adjust the height from above. This made me very happy. I do still have to unlock the height adjustment from below, but then I can just use the tool to adjust it.If your router is not on any of the lists, you may have to drill your own holes. But I would contact bench dog and ask if they could possibly match it up.Also, yes, sadly, bench dog does not supply the plate with the router table. However, this seems reasonable because there are different versions of plates for different routers. I would not expect them to include all 4 router plate groups.In summary I hope I have answered some of your questions by answering mine. If not, feel free to contact me via my e-mail displayed on my profile page, or comment on this review. I think this is a great router table. I had previously ordered the MLCS 2394 Extension Router Table Top & Fence with Universal Router Plate, but had a bad experience there, mostly with shipping, please read that review for full details if interested. I share the enthusiasm of everyone else who has reviewed this table with positive reviews and have no real gripes about it. True, I do wish Bench Dog would make installing on the left on a left tilting table saw more of an option, and the router plate does not come with it, but these are both understandable why they don't. All in all, it gives me above and beyond the functionality I need, in the space I need, and looks good.

Truth be told, I agonized over this purchase since I already own the excellent Bench Dog Pro Contractor Bench Top Router Table. I originally purchased the contractor version because of my small shop but if I'm going to be honest, it takes up valuable bench space and it's a pain to constantly shuffle around the shop to get it set up for a project. So I bit the bullet and purchased the Bench Dog ProMax Cast Iron Router TableExtension for my Ridgid R4512 cast iron table saw. I read all of the reviews and most were very positive.The instructions say this table cannot be mounted on the left side of a left tilting table saw (or on the right side of a right tilting table saw) because of the motor housing that extends from either side. I had full intentions of mounting this extension on the right side of my saw but upon receipt I decided the layout of my shop lent itself to having it on the left in spite of the fact that I have a left tilting saw.The most challenging part was getting the bolt threaded and locked down in the middle hole that attaches the extension wing to the cast iron table saw top. You need skinny fingers to get the bolt into the threaded hole (I used the bolt that came with my table saw rather than the one that came with the extension). Once I got it threaded I work at it with a bunch of different tools until I was able to snug it up pretty good. The other two bolts went in without a hitch (three bolts in all to attach the extension to the cast iron saw top). Now to attached the sides of the extension to the rails on the saw. The holes in the sides of the cast iron extension towards the front of the saw lined up fine but were too small. I ended up drilling them out to fit the bolts that came with the table saw. The side of the extension that faces the back rail was a piece of cake. Once I got the three bolts together between the extension and the saw table and the two front rail bolts locked down, I simply drilled a single hole in the other saw table rail and threw a bolt to keep it secure. There are actually two locations for bolts on the front rail and the back rail. I was able to get the two in the front but one of the holes in the rail on the back side of the saw lines up with a casting part of the extension that can't be drilled through. So I only put one bolt on that side. It certainly seems sturdy enough.Flattening the top took a bit of finessing. I also notice what a number of other posters noticed: There is a bit of a curve to the top. It's not out by more and a couple thousandths of an inch and I think it's within a level of tolerance that won't interfere with cutting wood on the table saw but it is there. You can feel the difference in the middle ever so slightly. Again I don't think this is a deal breaker. Time will tell.I installed an Incra Lift Master II which is an amazing piece of equipment - and a Dewalt 618 2-1/4 HP router. It fit just fine I have a Porter Cable 3HP router on order which I will install permanently in this extension. The whole lift, plate and router dropped right in place. I can so no interference with the motor shroud on the left tilting table saw.The extension is beefy, heavy, good casting and the fence is awesome. This will should actually translate into more shop space as now I can retire the Bench Top Router Table and clear up some much needed bench space. This extension doesn't take up any more room in my shop that the table saw does. It simply replaced the steel panel top on the left side (I moved the extra steel top extension to the right of the saw which increased the table area by 10")I haven't yet put the extension to good use but in due time. I'm confident it will make a huge difference in my shop workflow and the Incra Router Lift is so sweet I cannot imagine how I survived without it. It's a true blessing. The ability to make micro-adjustments quickly is a dream and changing the bits above the table doesn't get any easier. Outstanding piece of engineering and worth every penny.So yes, this does fit the left side of a Ridgid R4512 cast iron table saw albeit with a few minor modifications. Anyone who makes a big deal out of drilling a couple of extra holes is either lazy or overly anal about putting a hole in this fine slab of cast iron. It's not a big deal.One star off for the slight deflection in the casting but I really don't see it being an issue. If it does become an issue, I will post an update to my review.Update 6/22/15: So I've used the router table extension now for the past few months and I cannot imagine going back to the bench top model I used before I splurged on this beast. Sure the bench top has it's place in the field (which is exactly what it is designed for) but man oh man the cast iron top attached to my rolling Ridgid R4512 table saw is the cat's pajamas. The slight deflection (if that's the correct term" is certainly within a tolerance that doesn't alter my cuts on either the router or the table saw so I really think it's a non-issue.I did read in one review that the top is too low but I don't find that to be the case at all for me. I'm only 5'-8" and I find it is the perfect height. It does add some weight to the left side of my saw which forces me to be more careful when rolling the table but it hasn't dropped yet.Highly recommended for the small shop. If I had a larger shop I would definitely go with a separate router table but for my space, this is the nuts (meaning I really, really like it).Hope this helps other woodworkers who are considering such a purchase.