GEAR AID Seam Grip WP Waterproof Sealant and Adhesive for Jackets, Tents, Sleeping Pads and Outdoor Fabric | Repairs Rips, Seals Seams on Nylon, Canvas and Vinyl

I will buy this again

I used this to seal the seams on my boots, it dries quickly and makes a industrial level seal where every it is applied!

Works amazing I usually use gorilla glue for the stitching on the insides of backpack as well as the water proofing material but usually it has flaked off after awhile, but this definitely works better as it forms a silicone layer instead of a plastic like material, used it on the flaked patches of water proofing material inside my backpack and it looks and works good as new. Only complaint the tube of sealant I was using did have a small puncture form after a few minutes of using “could’ve been my fault some how” wasn’t a big deal as I just left it there to dry and the sealant just sealed itself lol. Also it comes with one brush for the two pack and it’s basically impossible to clean as no amount of alcohol or water can easily take off the sealant to reuse the brush.

Seems to have sealed up my 104 degree hottub cover seams very well, BUT will see how it performs as the Arizona heat reaches up to 120 and the hottub temp reaches 112 (before I cool it down).

People are drama queens or just cannot follow instructions. I've used this product and other GearAid products like Aquaseal on tents and breathable fishing waders, and I've even repaired holes in jackets with this product. I've also done emergency repairs on two tents damaged in a tropical storm. This can be a bit of a challenge to apply, moreso because of the space needed to hit all the seams in a tent or rainfly, and the time it takes to cure.One, use this product on a CLEAN garment or item. Really. Clean the fabric with Nikwax Tech Wash or at minimum, alcohol prep pads. Make sure it's DRY before applying.Two, take your time with this application. Put a thin coat on over the stitching or seam joints.Three, if you're using this as a patch in conjunction with Tenacious Tape, you need to have an overlap of at least 1/2 to 3/4" on any side of the defect/hole/tear so there's some healthy material that the patch can seal onto. The Tenacious Tape instructions are very clear about this. Cut the tape to fit around the shape of the defect.Four, plan for leaving the garment/item in place and not moving it until the curing process is done for 8+ hours. For a large tent, rainfly or waders, this will likely mean that you will need to do the seam sealing in stages. Otherwise, the newly painted seams will stick to each other or your item's non-seamly bits and make a HUGE mess, possibly destroying the item entirely. Still, I'd recommend putting a light dusting of some talc/baby powder on the seams/repair prior to stowing the garment/item so you don't have any sticking together.Lastly, once this product is opened and exposed to the moisture in the air, the countdown to it becoming hard and unusable starts. Get as much use as you can from the brush/applicator. Once the sealer dries, , it will harden and not be very useful. I wipe the threads clean to keep the cap from getting jammed, then put the tube of seam sealer in a ziplock and stow it in the freezer. Run it under a hot water tap for about a minute or two and the product should still be flexible and able to be used. I may get a season or two use out of a tube, but the applicators are pretty much done after one use. After that, I use popsicle sticks to smooth the product on. You can even reapply over a previous patch to re-seal an edge. They claim these types of products have a 4 year shelf life but that really depends upon the storage conditions.

My 20 yr old camping tent was leaking and I removed all seam tape and applied this on the seams and after curing not a single drop of water came through. Be sure to wear gloves when using this as it is difficult to remove from hands. You can get it completely off once it’s cured.

Bought one 1 oz tube to completely reseal the rain fly on an 11 year old 2 man tent (REI half dome). I should have bought two tubes since I had a minor glopmmishap and then had to skip the vestibule seams and the bathtub seal in the bottom of the tent itself, figuring the tarp would protect this.There is a really good 2:44 youtube on How to Waterproof a Tent posted by REI worth checking out. You'll probably find yourself adding Gear Aid Tent Fabric Sealant, Rubbing Alcohol, and NikWax Tent & Gear Solarproof to cart as well. Total cash outlay for this project for me (if I'd bought the suggested 2 tubes of Grip product) would have run about $40 which is way cheaper than buying a new UL tent because I *might* get into backpacking at some point. Probably took about 2.5 hours of focused work over a weekend (with a lot of hurry up and wait between steps), but half of that was sewing stays back on the tent itself and I had no idea what I was doing. your mileage may vary.Other tips I stumbled on that go beyond what was posted in the aforementioned video--*Dental floss works as pretty decently as a thread to tack back on stays that the manufacturer originally glued on that come completely loose as the glue deteriorates. Practice on less exposed ones to get technique down so you're not punching excessive holes in your most critical water-resisting surfaces.*Running tent + rain fly through the washing machine helps get a lot of the flaking original seal off and prep it for something like a fresh Nikwax coat. You'll probably still want to go over seams with a scrubby brush and cloth with rubbing alcohol though. I started with just water on cold, delicate. Then ran the rain fly through again with some dr bronner's soap on hot + regular mode with an extra rinse because it was still covered with muddy playa dust. Anything I hadn't tacked on with dental floss thread at that point I found loose in the bottom of the machine and needed to be re-affixed.*Nikwax instructions say it needs to go on while surface is wet! I was surprised how few videos mentioned that and many demonstrators applied it to a dry surface.*Nikwax and Tent Fabric Sealant aren't too stinky-- no qualms applying those indoors to limit the dirt introduced to your work space. This stuff (Grip) is really stinky. I took the tent outside to apply it.*Putting the rain fly on your tent pole structure inside out makes it much easier to see all the seams you need to hit. If you can do that with your tent model, I would recommend applying TF Sealant and Grip that way.