Floating Shelf Brackets -8 Pack Heavy Duty Wood Invisible Shelf Brackets with Screws,DIY Adjustable Hardware Blind Supports Shelves 120LBS

Very well designed floating shelf brackets. Follow the directions carefully, and they are relatively easy to install. They are invisible when installed properly, and quite strong. The specifications state 15lbs per bracket, but if you can install them into a stud, the weight capacity is actually quite a bit more. I wanted to try them first but will now be purchasing several more sets, as I love the look of floating shelves.

I installed as others have suggested, given metric drill bits are not common. Even if I had installed using metric, the plastic bit that expands is too far in to grip the dry wall. The result is a loose fit that causes your shelf to sag forward. You end up with a massive hole in your drywall without a good fit for your shelf. I don't know the purpose of the plastic but closer to where it sits in the wall, as ratcheting down hard on the screw does not compress it into expanding at all. if those fins expanded out it would likely hold strong no matter what, but the only part that expands are the 4 back fins which again are about a quarter inch too deep past the drywall to create any sort of hold. I even tried metric drills and it again wasn't secure. Because the end doesn't screw on without significant grip on the plastic you won't be able to engage the rear securing fins without some grip on the part that should be in the wall. Basically I ended up with massive holes in the wall and unless my drywall is somehow thinner than everyone else's I doubt anyone else wouldn't get the loose fit I did.

I read through a lot of reviews. The most useful was one that suggested taking off the plastic anchor sleeve and drill a 1/4"hole instead. Then just screw the bolt into the wall. What's important is drilling level, perfectly perpendicular holes both into the wall and into the shelf. Easiest is to put the brackets into the wall then bring the shelf to them to mark where the shelf needs the holes drilled. Again, the holes need to be straight and perpendicular. Yes, it can be done if you have the right tools. I was hanging a driftwood mantle so I needed to be a little creative. I attached the mantle to a board. I put boards at each end making it level. I used a drill with a level built in so I could drill straight down at the marks in the boards and a few inches into the mantle. After detaching the board I used it to mark the wall with the holes drilled at the marks. It was easier to handle the board and level it than trying to handle the driftwood to measure. Since the drill has built in levels I knew I could make at least level holes so I guesstimated the straightness. Worked perfectly this time but since then I was able to get the parts I needed for my portable drill press which will allow me to make perfectly straight, perpendicular holes in the wall. These brackets do need to go into studs the way that I used it. I'm not sure if the plastic anchor would work in drywall. Personally, I wouldn't trust any wall hanging shelves on drywall. If any heavy items are on the shelf I'd be afraid that any shelf would get ripped out of the wall.

Can be used for nonheavy items on shelf

ok, I'll tell you how to use those brackets, and here is why: what the other reviewers say did not work for me and what the seller's instructions say is wrong, incomplete, spiced with non-sense - unless I got a completely different product than everyone else. So here is my experience: Whats wrong: The anchor does NOT fit into a 7/16" hole. That is too small of a hole! The anchor DOES fit into a 1/2" hole, but it will freely spin. That is too BIG of a hole!. And btw, 1/2" is NOT 12 mm ! 12 mm is about 15/32". Don't get me started on the imperial vs metric system, my blood pressure is already high. Anyway, the anchor does NOT fit in a 15/32" hole either. Its still too small of a hole! I did not go yet another time to ACE and get a 31/64 bit to try. Instead I did this for each bracket: 1. Drill the 1/2 hole into the stud. Make sure you are drilling it straight !!! You only got one shot at this. 2. Hold the plastic part, and screw in the metal part until the plastic anchor starts expanding outwards. 3. Push it into the hole. If it goes in easy, take it out and screw in some more. Try again. 4. Once its too difficult to push in, hammer it in with a mullet. 5. Once completely in, turn the metal further to tighten it. It will now grip. You do this for all brackets, then you lay your shelve on top of the screws into position and mark the locations of where the holes need to be. Be precise ! Then drill the holes into the board 4 inches deep with a 3/8 bit. Again, drill straight or you will regret. After that you slide the board onto the brackets. Just kidding - it doesn't slide. You'll have to hammer it with a mullet. 3/8 is really on the low side, you might want to try to go up 1 mm (test on a piece of scrap). I mounted a 10 feet oak board on 4 of those brackets. Hammering that into place was an act that took a lot of time and patience and my wife and children learned a few new cuss words in the process. Next time I'll try a larger drill. It will worked out, I got it flush to the wall at the end. In conclusion: I would never use this hardware for a large board again, but for just a board that is hanging on two brackets, I would, now that I know what to do. One more thing though: The reason I picked these floating shelf brackets over the ones that you get at the big box store, is that they are relatively small diameter, so you can actually mount a floating 3/4 inch board. This will be the case if you do everything right. But since I spent so much time taking anchors in and out, hammering, etc two of the drywall holes have gotten so big that they now show, and I'll have to patch and paint. I hope this helps and I wish you all the best luck.

These work great. Drill a 1/4" hole into the stud. Make sure it's STRAIGHT. Buy a drill guide for $10 if you don't have one. Remove the anchor from the bracket and throw it away. Use a socket to screw the bracket into the hole. Do this for all of your brackets. Lay your shelf on top of the brackets and carefully mark their positions. Now use a dowel jig ($30) and a 3/8 bit to drill holes into your shelf at the marked positions. Now you can push your shelf onto the brackets. It'll be tight but that's fine. Use a mallet. I used 3 brackets for a 76" long shelf (5/8" thick and 5.5" wide) and it's super secure.

No están baratos, pero están muy bien diseñados. Instalación no complicada con conocimientos básicos. Todo ok.

Very happy with these, best options I've seen for making floating shelves. Very strong and easy to install. I followed the advice of another reviewer and drilled the mounts directly into the studs

This type of bracket must be installed into a wooden wall stud or concrete wall. I used a stud sensor to locate the centre of the wooden stud and drilled a 1/2 inch hole deep enough to accept the brackets expandable end and tapped the bracket into position. I tightened it with a drill.

Para la instalación se batalla un poco, ya que no hay brocas de la medida para pared (7/16), perfore con 5/16 y quedó chico el hoyo, y otra la perforé con 1/2 y quedó con juego. Fuera de eso ayudan a dar esa sensación de que la repisa flota. No aguantan mucho peso si no se perfora adecuadamente la pared

Garbage for the application I needed and no instructions provided at all! The part that went into the wall just spun around and around. I need to jam something in the hole to stop it from spinning despite the fit being tight enough requiring a hammer to set it in the wall. Then the stability that was provided by the internal mechanism being compressed was much less that satisfactory! Very disappointed! I carefully and cautiously extracted the one from the wall and they were all returned!