Perko 0456DP7 Flush Pro Engine Flushing and Winterizing Valve, 1 1/4"

I bought this product to replace the one that came on my 2006 Malibu Wakesetter. The adhesive holding the two halves together failed after almost 20 years. Certainly, that is not a short life span, but the newer version includes a clamp to keep the 2 halves together in the event the adhesive fails (when not if). This clamp looks like a typical hose clamp, except that it has sides that bend down and cradle the joint. In the case of an adhesive failure, the unit will now just leak slowly rather than completely separate and allow water to pour into the bilge.

Worked great. Easy to install

Waiting to install,made with quality.im very happy I wish I found it in August when I boat my boat

Love the product. But after two years, my starboard engine is overheating slightly, and turning on my safety system. I already replace one per flush device because of the same reason. The engine doesn’t overheat tremendously just very slightly, causing my genesis system to turn on and warn me that the engine is getting hot. I solved this problem by bypassing the Perko and my strainer and connecting a hose directly to my seacock into the engine. My engine temperature was normal after doing this. So to wrap it up, I had to replace my second Perko flush device because my temperature was rising slightly, causing my alarm system to turn on. Can Perko help me with any solutions. This only happens with saltwater intake. My temperature remains the same when I flush with freshwater at the dock. It seems like the check valve is not opening up completely when raw water is entering the Perko flush device. See photos. Thank you

I purchased two of these 1-1/4" Perko adapters for my twin 6.2L Merc inboards and one 1" Perko (reduced to 3/4") for my genny. Plumbed all three into one 5/8" feed, using a single Perko water-inlet (water-hose) fitting on the aft part of my stern's gunnel plus a couple 5/8" tees and around 30' of 5/8" supply hose. Found the 5/8"-supply was enough to feed either engine at idle, but not both at the same time. Genny actually sucked twice the flow of the big engines at idle, and the 1" Perko gasped for more water than I could give it... but it worked out just fine. I've used these Perkos in three different situations now, and they performed exactly as I hoped they would: 1) in dry-dock, I was able to feed both engines and genny water from a garden hose, until they were warm-enough to change the oil (probably 3-hours) 2) at my dock, I was able to flush-out the brackish/salt water from my pumps and manifolds, without having to close any seacocks (something very difficult to reach on my boat) 3) I used a 3/4HP submersible pump to suck antifreeze from a 5-gallon pail, with the discharge going into my Perko (garden hose) flush-fitting. I winterized both engines and my genny (plus their mufflers) in about 1-minute each, consuming a total of 6gal of antifreeze 1-1/4" Perko valve: #0456DP7 1-1/4" Perko valve kit (has 0499000CHR water-inlet plate and fittings): #0457DP7 1" Perko valve: #0456DP6 I could NOT be more happy with the performance of these Perkos, though a couple buddies tried to put them down because they're all-plastic. Personally, I think the plastic (if strong enough) probably has longer/smoother operation than metal parts would have (especially in salt), but makes one a little nervous without an ABYC-certification stamp... if these crack/fail, the boat is headed straight to the bottom. I tried to get more information from Perko 3-times, and they never returned my calls/emails.

While the unit looks nice, it constricts the water enough that the boat runs hot. I tried it both horizontally and vertically, and neither worked. I pulled it, and the boat runs great with no overheating.

I almost didn't buy this, since the design was flawed which caused my last one to break. But I ordered it anyway and was pleasantly surprised to see that they updated the design. The old design had metal screws going through one half of the plastic case and into the other half. The plastic would become brittle with time and eventually break when back pressure was applied (i.e. turning on the faucet water at full speed without the boat running). The new design uses a metal collar to hold the two pieces together. Instead of relying on plastic screw holes, the metal collar will hold these two halves together regardless of the pressure.

This is a great way to flush an inboard or sterndrive boat. Ive installed them on two Volvo diesels and one set of Ivecos. Theyre easy to install and easy to use. The style I'm familiar with has a v-band clamp, and I've never had an issue with one breaking or leaking. I keep a spare piece of similar diameter tubing, an impeller, and extra hose clamps on the boat just in case in fails, but knock on wood, I haven't needed them. I usually run a piece of garden hose with a valve or a cap to make it easier to hook up, but other than that, this is all you need to keep your boats cooling system salt-free.