GreatNeck SS7 Saw Set Tool, Adjusts Teeth on Hand Saws, 5–11 Point Dial Setting, Compatible with 18 Gauge Panel and Back Saws

Arrived in good time and replaces the one I lost - works well than you.

Some of my woodworking saws have fine teeth, 12 to 14 teeth per inch. All of the modern saw sets seem to have hammers that are too thick to set those fine teeth. The hammer spans more than one tooth and bends too much of the metal. The Great Neck saw set claims to set saws with up to 11 teeth per inch.Paul Sellers has a video showing how to modify the tool to make it useful for setting fine teeth, which involves grinding the hammer thinner. I purchased the Great Neck set to see if I could do that. I believe that I have succeeded.I took the tool apart and ground the top of the hammer to make it thinner. I just ground the very tip of the hammer, leaving the bulk of it at its original thickness. The hammer was 2 mm thick as delivered. The fine teeth of my saws are about 1.2 mm thick, so I ground the hammer down at the very tip to make it 1.2 mm thick. To grind down the hammer, I used my coarse diamond sharpening stone and did it by hand. It worked well, and it took only a few minutes. There is no need to use a grinding wheel, which will be too aggressive.The hammer appears to be fairly well hardened, unlike what some reviewers noted in their reviews. After setting one of my saws, there appears to be no damage to the hammer.Disassembling the tool is a bit fidgety because the handle is spring loaded against the hammer springs. But it is not difficult. Simply loosen the screw, then move the handle around until the holes line up and the screw falls out. Reassembling the tool is a bit more dodgy, but also not hard. Put the parts back together and put the screw into the hole. The screw will not go through because the holes are not lined up. Leaving the screw standing up in place, move the handle around until the screw falls through the hole, then tighten the screw.The quality of the tool is OK, although not as nice as my Somax (which is no longer made). The collar that carries the hammer is made of plastic instead of metal. That will probably not have any effect on the durability of the tool, but you might want to be careful what kind of lubricant you put on it so as not to dissolve the plastic. I use silicone oil, which is designed to be safe when used with plastic.Caution: I assume that modifying the tool like this will invalidate any warranty on it.

Easy to operate

I am restoring an old tenon back saw and had to file off all the teeth and start over, and needed to set the new teeth. It set the 12-tpi saw with no problems, and now the saw is cutting fine. I could have spent time and money on a vintage saw set, but this tool did the job with no problems and no nonsense. If you need to set saw teeth, this tool will do the job.

nice solid well built tool, but this item comes with no instructions for use. maybe i'm the only person that has never used one of these(instructions, instructions, I'm a guy, I don't need no stinking instructions). broke off several teeth on my bow saw blade trying to wing it. next stop youtube, but why should I have to go there?

Ever see your Grandfather use a handsaw as fast, if not faster than an electric saw? This tool's skill set is why.This tool is used to create the set on hand saws.Set is the width of a cut that a handsaw makes. The bigger the set the less binding the saw gets in use.Learning to sharpen and set saws is a dieing skill which would be needed in disaster survival.

I bought this to set the teeth on the old ripsaws I have gathered over the years. It works well. It is a time consuming process the file each tooth and then set the teeth to give the proper kerf opening. The tool has a hideous gold paint job that will definitely keep it from walking off.After using it several times, I began to notice the issue with the tool. As you fully close the tool the hammer or plunger compresses the tooth against the anvil, the is a bit of play that makes the plunger scoot up to the tip of the tooth. It's not a terrible thing, but it can make the tip of the tooth curl outwards instead of the entire tooth being set out. If the play was removed it would be an excellent tool.I have not seen any deformation of the anvil or plunger yet, but there are several parts where the cheap chrome plating is peeling off.Overall a pretty good starting tools. I will probably get and older manufacture one from an antique shop. The quality is decent, but I doubt it will last like the vintage ones.

no more throw away saws after a couple of years of usage. reset the teeth , sharpen and then like new.