Design Engineering, Inc. Black Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap 2" x 50' | Lava Rock Technology | Pliable High-Temp Tape | 1800°F Direct / 2500°F Intermittent Heat | Made in USA

Hi Folks Greg Muncer here with Advanced Fleet Specialists of 37 years. I have a 1988 Chevy Caprice that is in great shape. The exhaust pipes and muffler needed 6 repairs. I search this product down; not wanting to replace the exhaust system. I followed every direction and added these things. 1) I scrubbed an area around the repairs about a third away around the pipes, with a stainless steel wire toothbrush, and with Clorox Clean Up (spray) and a spray water bottle to thoroughly rinse the area after the wire brush and soapy bleach scrubbing. Then I quickly wipe the area mostly dry with a paper towel so it did not flash rust much. 2) I tape measured the repair area to make a patch about an inch longer than the ends of the repair area. 3) I bought off Amazon here, one roll of " DEI 010129 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15' " for $14.95. This 2 inch wide exhaust wrap was a dog's great fetch, ("a cat's meow" ha ha), I took the Muffler Putty " Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty - 4 oz. " , available here on Amazon also, and needed it (which mixes it just prior to use), like the directions said. I screeded the packet to the edge where you cut the packet open, then I cut only about 1/3 the end off, to be able to squeeze out about a 1 inch wide squeeze out of the packet. I squeezed the putty onto the measured and cut exhaust wrap mention above. I squeezed the putty onto the middle of the 2 inch wide tape all along its length. I then took a stiff piece off plastic, for a putty knife and smoothed the putty over the tape, covering every edge. (I had laid the tape on a cardboard box to dispose of the mess made on a workable disposable surface) So, spread the putty thoroughly a little less than 1/4 inch thick on one side of the tape. 4) With the tape spread with putty, I took my water spray bottle and wetted the repair area again. This time I only dried it very lightly, leaving it wet but not dripping. I dabbed up the drips with a paper towel. I then place the putty side of the tape against the wire brushed and wetted repair area; where the puttied tape patch, hung over the repair area about an inch on each end. I used disposable latex gloves and so with these gloves on, I smoothed the outty all over the tape which brought some of the extra putty to the edges of the tape. While smoothing the tape out, I had some putty come through the tape that is a little pores. (Careful to leave the center of the tape humped up a bit on its center length, so as to leave a good thickness of putty over the holes in the pipe or muffler). Extra putty from the packets can also be used over the outside of the tape to seal up the pores tape. Smoothing over the complete tape patch and its edges with putty makes a smooth cast like product, just like a cast use for a persons broken arm, except this cast is good for extremely high heat. 5) Once you get your patch smoothed out on the repair area, I set a 1500 watt (small heater withing an inch of the surface of the wet patch. I found that the patch had to stay as hot as this heater would make it, for at least an hour or longer is better. (I had one place that I could not get the heat close enough to make the pipe hot for an hour and, when I drove the car (without giving it much gas) the patch had not sufficiently hardened and the path lift off one end and the exhaust was escaping out the repair hole again)> Point is make sure you heat the patch good for at least about an hour. I found the heater made the patch and pipe hot enough that you could still touch it without burning your hand but, probably you could not leave your hand on the hot patch more than a few seconds without burning your hand. This should give you a good idea as to how hot to make the patch. It could even be a little hotter than this, although I like a slower curing process so, that it does not bubble up from too quick of hot heat causing the putty to boil before it hardens. Keep in mind that this tape over the putty slowes down the drying process and so the heater and the whole hour heating the patch seems to become absolutely needed. In summary this is a fantastic product and the tape really helps to bridge the gaps and maintain a real good consistent thickness of the repair. I used 3 packets out of the 4 packets that I bought. (Each of these purchase packs contained 2 packets inside each pack, so I used 6 little packets altogether.) Each tape patch average about 8 inches long and was applied long ways onto the pipe. I did not wrap the tape patch around the pipe except for one of the repairs that required it. The 2 inch wide tape came in a 15 foot roll and I used a little less than 5 feet of it. I paid $3.40 a pack and used 3 packs so I used about $10 bucks of putty and $5 bucks worth of the tape; so I used $15 dollars of product to make 6 beautiful patches. (I wasted some, when I did not let the one patch heat up hot enough and long enough). Use a heater, wire brush the area and get any greese off the repair area with a soapy bleach. Rinse it well with water (the putty is water based), pre wet the repair area just before applying the wet patch. My exhaust system was strong before I began and was being held firmly by all connections and exhaust hangers, but every pipe, muffler and resonator require a sizable patch and so it this $15 bucks worth of muffler putty and 2 inch wide tape save me the best part of $1,000. I feel confident I will not have to replace this exhaust system for another few years. Thank You Amazon, Permatex and Design Engineering; maker's of the 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15'. Happy Motoring, Sincerely Greg (I still spent 6 hours repairing the 6 areas) but just paid $15 bucks. Both these products, the putty and the tape were good up to temperatures of 2,000 degrees, oh yea.

Very nice product..its nice you dont need to wet this stuff down like the other stuff. It likes to Frey at the ends so I suggest sharp scissors and black tape the end while wrapping so it dont string apart and dont accidentally push in the center while trying to wrap/stretch or your finger separates the webbing design and makes it a little ugly..same with edges, be gentle so it dont snag on things or it freys easily.

Works great can touch pipe without worry off burning.

If you're hesitant to buy because some people are leaving reviews about the product being fake, I can assure you that those reviews are either false, or they bought the product from unsavory third-party sellers. Not only did it come in its original packaging, it also did not unravel after trimming it. It is true, however, that it thins out to about an inch when you stretch it tightly. And also, you should do this kind of work outside, with gloves and a mask. I pushed in the fabric very hard with my finger and it did not come apart at all. The 15 ft roll was just the right amount of material for my application as my extension pipe sat a little too close to the gas tank for my liking. Thanks to this product I now have some peace of mind while driving.

So far so good just make sure you wear some silicon gloves, learned the hard way that it's very painful not to hah. looks great I have yet to see how well it holds up. I also sprayed some heat resistant/bonding adhesive spray just for extra protection. It was good size for the 50ft one the length got both my pipes covered with extra leftover overall I say it's a good bang for your buck

Wrapped my harley exhaust. Works great at stopping the heat from cooking the rider and passenger.

Used on my Akrapovic full system for my CBR 1000RR. Buy Design Engineering gold heat reflective tape to protect your fairings. I did it, and I'm glad I did. Otherwise your farings can catch on fire.

Just a heads up, it seems the titanium version is also loaded with small fibers, so wear gloves. I was pretty much fun with just a pair of gloves, and doing the job outdoors. Take your time with it, keep it tight, spray it with a coat of the high temp silicone, take it for a ride until it stops smoking, and repeat the silicone process two more times. I can't really say for sure how the actual heat dissipation works since I'm still in the install/curing process, but it felt sort of similar to the stock heat shields. I didn't use the steel clamps, because I just could not get them to tighten down properly all the way. Maybe it was the ties I ordered. Maybe it was my own stupidity just not getting it. Either way, I used regular metal screwing hose clamps instead, and they did the job just as well, and for sure won't budge. Wrapping around at about a 1/4" to 1/3", I was left with around 4 feet for each pipe (I cut the roll in half first, starting at 25' per pipe).

Product Quality is good. Fuss free installation...no lose threads or damage. Not yet seen a noticeable difference in Performance. Still very early days and hence just the looks are good enough for now. Will edit the review based on real world performance after a month or two.

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good, but does discolour over time. mine has gone a kind of gold colour (which I don't hate)

Works well as a heat shield

Installing this is 10x better than installing regular fiberglass lagging, which left me scratching for days. Highly recommend it. Just note that the initial burn in period it does create some smoke and an odd but not unpleasant smell.