SKIL Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert Plate for SKIL Table Saw TS6307-00 - STZ6307

Bought this for my son‘s table saw and he seems to like it and seems to work very well for him.

Great way to keep the wooden parts from going down by your motor

This insert fits perfectly on my SKIL table saw. Its zero clearance makes it a much safer tool. However…the plastic insert is so thin that it flexes downward so much and with suck little pressure, that it causes the piece you’re cutting to dip into the blade. It’s OK for ripping lengths of wood, but I won’t use it for any smaller stick. I ordered a solid MDF insert from Etsy: Four for $31.

This was a great addition to my table saw, having the zero clearance with less tear out than it's stock insert. It does come with screws/machine that you will have to drill into your table saw to ensure that the zero clearance plate will remain in it's place. It was a little nerv racking at first but now it pretty much just lives on my table saw.

Edited to add: USE A TAP! The self-tapping screws it comes with are worthless. They are M4 x 0.7, do yourself a favor and use a real tap. After I fixed the problem below I used a tap on the rest of the holes and it went smoothly --- Having bought the TS6307 when it was first released, I had been waiting and hoping they would release an insert like this because I was struggling to make something satisfactory with my basic woodworking skills, so I was thrilled when they finally released this. When I went to put it in, the first thing I noticed is that it doesn't have a quick release button like the stock plate does, it has a latch that has to be turned with a screwdriver or a coin or something, despite both the Amazon photo and the manual showing a quick release button. Then I read the manual, and realized that the screws were not the levelling grubs I assumed they were, but that it actually required you to *drill into the saw's aluminum casting* to make holes to screw this down. Well, I thought, it's a Skil product for a Skil saw, there must be a good reason for this and I'm sure it will go fine. I used a Milescraft DrillMate to make sure my drill bit was straight and aligned and drilled out the four holes for the self-tapping screws. The manual says to use a 1/8-9/64 drill bit. I don't have a 9/64 bit and I bet you don't either, so I used the 1/8 bit. The first screw was difficult to get in, but with some persuasion from my impact driver it drove home. The second screw started okay, bound up a little bit, and then immediately sheared in two. The screw head broke right off, and it and my drill bit gouged up both the plate and the surface of my saw. So now I have to smooth down both my table surface and the plate before I can use them, and also the shaft of the screw is stuck in place and of course lines up with one of the reinforcing ribs of the stock plate so I can't just leave it there. It's sitting like that in the shop right now because I know better than to keep working on it when I'm this frustrated or I'll just break something else. So in summary, the installation process is risky and I ended up marring my saw table and maybe making it so the stock plate won't fit anymore