MayBee 2 Pack Honey Gate Valve for Extractor, Durable Nylon Honey Extractor Tap, Beekeeping Supplies

Here's how I installed my wife's MayBee Honey Gate Valves using a CENYB 1-11/16 (43mm) Hole Saw... I stood the MayBee "orange nut" on one of its "highest' Chamfered Head Edges (not the Wrench Flats) on the inside of the bucket floor, where I drew a circle on the inside. Then from the outside of the bucket I drilled a small pilot hole by simply "eyeballing" the center of circle I'd drawn looking through the plastic bucket. Next I took this CENYB 1-11/16" / 43mm Hole Saw and very slowly drilled out the hole.I then screwed in the MayBee Honey Gate (but not too tight as to deform the MayBee's clear rubber gasket). I then proceeded to push the MayBee Honey Gate, as flat against the bucket side wall as possible. As to kind of "deform" the bucket's side wall with just a bit of a "flat spot". Where I then hand screwed on the MayBee's Orange Plastic Nut on the inside (where I did NOT add my own o-ring as others have noted, so your milage may vary), but I did the best I could with my hand strength. Then I used some leather gloves and my ole "Tennis Pro" / Ping Pong hand grip (to get a few more slight turns of the Nut). 🎾🏓 As I simply did NOT have a wrench or channel lock that would fit in the bucket. ha ha 🤪 But it was tight enough that it was waterproof on my very first try ever. My wife is super happy and so are her bees! 🐝😇Well, I hope that might help others out there!

I bought these to try. I have compared them to other honey gates that are much more expensive. I will choose these going forward.

Gasket may leak, hard to tighten without jumping threads.

Works well , easy to install

I initially left good feedback based solely on the quickness on delivery but after using these I have found they are complete junk.The seals will not seal at all and the plastic is generic as can be. I found out they don’t seal after I had three 5 gallon buckets of honey.Trash trash trash.

I actually really like these honey gates. I would have given them a five-star rating except for one very important flaw, which actually could be easily remedied by the manufacturer. The washer on the wing nut is not integral to the wing nut, and consequently when you open the wingnut just enough to let the gate slide up and open, the washer can slant inwards and prevent the gate from closing, while honey is still coming out! Obviously this can result in a mess. I'm going to have to glue the washer to the wing nut. The manufacturer should have used a wing nut with an integral (flanged) washer.A tip on installation. The hole to be made in the bucket should be started in such a way that the bottom of the hole is about 1.5" to 2" above the outside bottom of the bucket. The hole should be of such a size that the threads of the gate's throat can directly slip in through the hole (without having to turn the gate and thread it in). The hole should not be any bigger than this. I use a variable hole cutter. It can be a bit tricky to adjust the hole cutter the exact right size, so you should drill your first hole(s) in an old bucket you don't care about, and make adjustments on the variable hole cutter until you have the hole size exactly right. (Now that I have my hole cutter adjusted correctly for this job, I'm saving it as it is, and never re-adjusting it for some other job.)Drill the hole at a very slow speed, and slightly tilt the drill as you are drilling to whatever part of the hole is seen to be the least drilled.I know this may sound complicated, but you really get the hang of it pretty quickly. In fact it actually gets so easy once you get the hang of it that I have about 7 buckets with gates in them now.As a precaution, I apply a bit of L'Exel clear caulk on the flange of the gate that contacts the outside of the bucket. I apply this just outside the rubbery gasket that comes with the gate. I don't know if this is necessary, I just want to make double sure that it will never leak!

The media could not be loaded. Works well, standard honey gate.I would buy it again.One suggestion:because most honey containers are round, the flat spigot could benefit from having more threads (longer threaded area for the nut to screw on). We added (our own) thicker O-ring (black) inside in order to help mate the curved container wall to the flat nut (to fill in the central gap more to discourage leaking). The nut only catches on half of its threads, but is sufficient.

works great