RGB LED Connector for 10mm Non-Waterproof/Silicon Waterproof Strip Light, 4 Pin Board to Wire LED Tape Splice Terminal,Work with WS2813, WS2815, Not Include Wire, 10 PCS

i was skeptical. seeing these style connectors on several listings, all of them with 2 or 3 stars, had me convinced they were gonna be junk, they would break right away, they wouldn't make a good connection, etc etc. but i'm tired of soldering these tiny wires and then dealing with broken solder joints a few weeks later, so i bought a pack of these to try them out. yep, i'm leaving that solder gun in the junk drawer from now on.so the hardest part of using these is getting the wires to lay down in the channels before clamping the clip down on them, but it's not difficult. i split the wires apart about an inch down because they need to be spaced apart just a bit to fit into the channels. i didn't strip the ends or anything, just put the wires in, got them to lay in the channels, and clamped it down. for good measure, i wiggled the wires back and forth after seating the clip on them, to make sure they wouldn't slip out and also to give the clip a little extra help in cutting through the wire insulators to make contact. then i put the led strip in the other side and clamped it down (pretty self-explanatory on that side) until it clicked shut. that was it. no solder, no electrical tape or heat-shrink.i put two of these clips on a piece of wire that connected two strips of light about 6 feet apart, and both clips made good connection on the first try without having to fiddle with them. they hold securely on both sides, and although it requires a bit of force to get the clips to snap shut, they're probably easy enough for most people to do manage (especially if you grab a pliars). i'm so glad i took a chance on these little clips. wish i would have years ago.

Works as intended. The connection of led strip is not very solid so I’m thinking to add solder to make it solid.

These actually work better than the 2 wire version. Worked fine for my bar lights project where I needed a 45 degree turn so went strip-to wire and then wire-to strip on the other side.

I was PRAYING these would work for a smart led strip instal I needed to split up. Seemed pretty straightforward. I was hoping to avoid having to learn how to solder. I was wrong. These have potential and may work for some other applications, but for a normal indoor led strip (a Govee smart one) these were totally worthless. Less than worthless as it just took more time and effort to fail. Led strips would NOT connect correctly. They were hard to use and when they worked it was not correct. I ended up buying a pre-separated closet led system for about twenty bucks that still needed some modification, but actually just worked without nearly as much profanity.

I had a lot of issues with loose connections. After setting it all up and installing it any movement at all would cause either the power to go out or one of the colors to go off. Most of the issues are related to the LED strip side. I think if they improved that side the device would be awesome but until then it will continue to cause stress.

I had issues with these at 1st and thought they were crap, but I tried flipping the connector upside down and piercing the copper ends of the light strip head on and have had no issues since! Now they're fantastic! I used white wire to connect the strip light around my ceiling to strip lights in my windows and they look sick now that they all work on 1 circuit.

Shipped fast, nice quality, happy customer

I saw some reviews about people having issues with these, and I thought, surely that's just an error on the user's part, right? I'm a pretty technical person, I can get these to work right.So I get some, and setting them up is super simple. Stick the end of your LED strip up and close that end, then line up your RGB wires on the other side and use some pliers to crimp it down. I did that... and it didn't work. The strip I tried to connect to wasn't turning on. I thought thought that maybe there was a bad piece of hardware somewhere, so I got a different LED strip, a couple of different connectors, and some fresh wire, and tried again -- same result.So I got out my multimeter and started touching things to test connectivity. My LED strips were fine, my wires were fine, and the connectors were fine... so why didn't it work when they were assembled? I put a connector back on an LED strip and tested the connection from the LED strip's ground to the ground on the other side of the connector... and it didn't work, despite the connector having clearly pierced the contact at the end of the LED strip.I'm honestly still not sure why that didn't work; I had removed the adhesive from the back of the strip, and I'm using a non-waterproof strip, which should be fine according to the instructions. In either case, I tested it several times with different pieces of hardware, and it never worked.So then I decided to do the one thing the instructions said not to do -- I put the LED strip in upside down. I then tested the connection again... and it worked! In fact, after putting all of the connectors on upside-down, they *all* worked. I guess that's good, but you can clearly see in my photo that inserting the strip far enough for the connector to pierce it when it's upside-down also causes the "bottom" of the connector to partially cover one of the LEDs, which is pretty ugly.After inserting and removing a strip several times to test it, the connector also chewed up the end of the strip pretty badly. Using sharp pins to pierce the end of the strip seems like a terrible idea to me; it'd work just as well to use metal contact plates that were held down by pressure, but this design means that inserting and removing a strip multiple times is going to eventually ruin it.All in all, I guess these worked, technically. My LED strips are connected together now, but next time I need more connectors, I'll definitely buy something else.