Liquitex Professional Effects Medium , 237ml (8-oz), Airbrush Medium

I have approximately 4,785,347* bottles of acrylic model / miniature paint from various manufacturers (Tamiya, Model Master, Citadel, Polly S, even some old Ral Partha stuff). Intended for brush work, it's all too thick for an airbrush.Thinning with water is not desirable because it thins not only the pigment, but also the polymer emulsion. The effect of the latter is that if the emulsion bonds are stretched too thin your paint can actually crack when it dries. Not good.Some people recommend Windex as a thinning agent, but you have to be careful you get Windex WITHOUT ammonia in it (isopropyl alcohol can sometimes be easier to find than alcohol-based Windex). This works better than plain water, and Windex / alcohol makes for a decent thinning and bonding agent for the paint. The only problem here is that because you're dealing with a liquid with alcohol in it, it dries pretty fast. On the model, this is good. Inside the tip of your airbrush, not so much.An airbrush medium is, essentially, clear acrylic paint. It thins the paint without weakening the emulsion and maintains the pigment strength. It doesn't dry nearly as fast as isopropyl alcohol, and so your working time in your airbrush is extended. The medium also contains a flow aid which alters the surface tension of the liquid to further prevent spattering.* This number may be slightly exaggerated.

All I have to say is this stuff is AMAZING and worth EVERY PENNY. I used to try to thin paints with windex or isopropyl alcohol but if I tried to do it with thick paint it would just be all blobby and wouldn't blend smoothly into a thinner paint mixture. This stuff, on the other hand, blends with the paints perfectly and thins them enough so that they can be used with an airbrush. On top of that, this does not dull the color of the paint! This stuff is so worth it, you won't regret it! Also, the paint I used this with is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HF6YX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (liquitex basic paints). It works really well, and if you get the paint set I linked to and this thinner, it will last you A LONG LONG LONG time.

I Use this to thin Acrylic paint for direct application to wooden toys. It thins the paint WITHOUT diluting the acrylic particles so necessary to adhere to the next layer of paint, if needed. The thinner paint soaks deeply into the wood, locking the paint to the surface, and allowing more coats to stick to the surface. Some acrylics will still cover in one coat after thinning with this (black works very well) but others will not cover in one coat even direct out of the bottle. So as a thinner, keep in mind coverage as well as adherence to the surface and the next color, if needed.

After reading and seeing a thousand warnings about diluting acrylic paints with water for a "wash" effect (too much water prevents the acrylic molecules from bonding with each other, which prevents the paint from adhering to the surface/canvas for long-term, which means cracking or peeling), I read about using airbrush medium instead. It's super thin and milky and provides a great "wash" effect with paints, but it still allows the acrylic molecules to do their thing. I have to admit, washes made with the airbrush medium are actually better on the canvas- they just look richer and more vibrant when dry. The "milky" effect disappears when the paint cures, and it's a little hard to get used to at first, but it's really no difference than working with glazing medium (which is thicker).I highly recommend this for acrylic artists who are looking to make their paints more fluid, translucent, and "wash"-y. It is a really great mixing agent!

Being this is airbrush medium it does thin paint for airbrush spraying of paint and not wreck the medium base of acrylic paints. But being a medium it's very slightly heavier than some thinners. Just my observation. I sometimes feel I need to add too much and so do a final cut with a few drops of some of my own home brewed acrylic thinner. But you will never lose the adhesive quality of the paint when thinning with this and I only use a few drops of my own vs a whole thinning with my own. I've so far used it in Liquitex soft body acrylic paints and their clear varnish mediums as well as FolkArt metallic paints and Badger primer successfully. It works especially well in the clear varnishes with a few drops of retarder added IMO.

I happen to like Liquitex mediums. I am a professional artist, and recently I bought a great airbrush. I have a good selection of airbrush paint, but not all the colors I would like, and I am not used to mixing airbrush colors drop-by-drop as required for the tiny gravity feed cup. I have high quality acrylics that I mix with this medium, and it does work very well. I have not had any clogs yet, and I use a fine .mm nozzle too! I have not tried white yet, though- white is notorious for clogging even thinned out. I would recommend any of the Liquitex mediums. The brand is known for quality,and they work just as they are supposed to work.

I found out about this product long after I did every trick in the book to help with my air brushing. That said glass cleaner contains toxins, you DO NOT want to breath, and the way the air brush works it mist's the paint mix in the air, not healthy. So I warn any one using any strange mix's to read warning labels, and that is when I leaned about this.The thing I learned was that this has the slow dry, flow aid, and it wont thin the paint, it transfers it, nor will it change the paint colors. I would tell any one do a little looking around and find out what works best for you, but I found what works best for me.

I use this to thin (mainly) Vallejo paints. Pretty sure I have also used it to thin various "craft" paints so I could use them in the airbrush. Works as advertised. Vallejo paints seem to have issues with some thinners that contain alcohol, which this does not, so it is exactly what the doctor ordered.