





Buy anything from 5,000+ international stores. One checkout price. No surprise fees. Join 2M+ shoppers on Desertcart.
Desertcart purchases this item on your behalf and handles shipping, customs, and support to Morocco.
⚡ Elevate your power game—convert smarter, run stronger!
The Victron Energy Orion-Tr DC to DC Converter is a high-efficiency, isolated 48V to 12V power converter delivering 20 amps and 240 watts. Designed for dual battery systems, it features IP43 splash resistance for durability in challenging environments, easy screw terminal installation, and a 5-year warranty, making it a reliable choice for professionals seeking stable and efficient voltage conversion.







| ASIN | B07DQ63HNQ |
| Best Sellers Rank | #61,318 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #225 in Power Converters |
| Brand | Victron Energy |
| Color | blue,black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 776 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 08719076035282 |
| Input Voltage | 48 Volts (DC) |
| Item Dimensions | 3.15 x 7.32 x 5.12 inches |
| Item Weight | 1.18 Kilograms |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 3.15 x 7.32 x 5.12 inches |
| Manufacturer | Victron Energy |
| Mfr Part Number | NT-985 |
| Model Number | ORI481224110 |
| Output Voltage | 12 Volts (DC) |
| Power Source | Battery Powered |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Warranty Description | 5 Years |
M**D
Well made. Runs cools
This is a sturdy voltage converter/regulator and it works well for what I was designing. I've ran a 10 amp water pump on it for a while and it stayed cool. The terminals are rugged enough, it looks fairly water tight and works fine for my custom design which is to supply a full 13V DC level to a 12V sump pump on a 100A-Hr battery back up where I need it to lift water 10 feet over a basement wall if needed on big thunderstorms and the power went out. A photo is attached of what the assembly looks like with the same brand of battery charger added. I use a control block (circuit) with a water pump float switch as an input to activate the pump. The switch I use has a timer + a long-throw float switch so it runs long enough to drain the sump and will alarm if there was an issue of not pumping. The control signal goes to an optional input switch on the converter which only needs a few mA to set the output ON-OFF. or just jumper that if you want it to remain on. This is more robust and adjustable than any battery backup system I could have bought and I've had several which all failed after a while. Using the DC Converter plus a regulated DC charge controller gives full, adjustable control of the charge rate, final voltage levels and maintains the battery with intelligent battery levels over time. Commercial sump pump battery backup systems tend to overcharge the battery eventually which wrecks the battery and runs too slow when pumping. This setup is superior when coupled with an intelligent charge controller and the DC converter. This design allows a 12V DC pump to run at FULL speed at 12.8 - 13.5V if I want and turn off quickly rather than pumping slooooowly at 12V or 12.4 and run the battery down because it takes too long. This method runs the DC pump at FULL speed and shuts off quickly which is less draw on the battery overall. I added DC breakers for protection of the battery, the pump and for the DC converter. This setup also works if you need backup batteries from a 12V vehicle battery 50-100 feet away and the voltage drops over the long distance and ends up too slow to run a pump. You can give the converter 10V or whatever and it will still output a full 12.8V or whatever you set it to. Of course, energy is still energy so if you feed 10V in and want 12.8V out then the input current will be higher accordingly. My only complaint is the DC adjustment screw is TINY, recessed, hard to see and made of plastic which is hard to adjust. That is the weakest part so get a small screwdriver that fits well so it doesn't strip out the plastic screw. The rest is well made.
A**R
Great unit. Read this review if you want to know more about this item
This item works great to control the voltage coming from the engine starting battery and charging my new lithium batteries. The charging voltage for the lithium batteries is 14.5 volts roughly and my typical charging voltage for the starting battery on my engine is only 13.9 volts coming out of the alternator. So I set this for 14.5 and it boosts the voltage. I have solar on these batteries for the house portion and it charges them at 14.6 volts and I don't want that voltage going back to my lead acid starting battery on the RV so this is called an isolator which keeps the voltage from going backwards. You cannot use a non-isolated DC to DC converter with different kinds of batteries like lead acid starting battery and lithium Coach side battery or house battery. Victron makes a great unit here and it is reliable. I install these on all of my new installations for solar and lithium conversion for RVs. It also limits the amperage because if you just connect an almost empty lithium battery of like say 300 amps it can try to suck 200 amps right out of your starting battery and out of your alternator which your wiring nor those batteries or alternator is designed for. So this brings it down to a less stressful amperage that can be handled with the standard alternator and lead acid starting battery and 4 a w g power wire that comes from the front of the RV back to the house batteries. You want to keep this limited to 40 amps and I usually just like to have a 20 or 30 amp DC to DC charger so that I don't stress out the vehicle's alternator on long trips or at night time when it needs it's power that is being produced by the alternator to run lights and such. If you go too many apps with this you can end up sucking more energy out of the battery and alternator especially at idle or low speeds and cause your battery to die and cause the engine to die since it is needing that voltage to keep the fuel pump and computer engine fan headlights heater or air conditioner going
N**K
Good choice for 48 to 12 V with low Amps
These are very reliable and work without issues. At least that was my experience. I used to have a 48V solar system with some applications for 12V, so it worked very well for my small Amps application. Since then, I changed the system voltage to 24V and thus am using smaller boxes to convert 24 to 12V, also from Victron. I recommend these if you have the need to convert 48V to 12V
T**M
Works as claimed.
I needed to charge my 100 AH portable lithium battery pack from the vehicle that I drive daily at work. I can charge it from a convenience outlet but I wanted to be able to recharge it while traveling. This module was perfect for the situation, it raised the dc voltage to 14.6vdc, constantly putting out a maximum of 9 amps for a total of about a 110 Watts. Why this much? Because I am connected via a DC socket (cigarette lighter type and I don't want to exceed its output capacity of 10 Amps). This module puts out a maximum of 9 amps and is adjustable to the lithium battery charge voltage. It worked as I intended. I am not overloading the socket. I am pushing a 121 watts at 14.6 vdc or so. Some reviewers claimed that the module gets hot. That has not been my observation. It gets warm, but it has a heat sink and efficiently sheds the heat. I would think the larger the difference between the input and the output the more heat will be created. That's just I times E. Power lost in heat. But overall, it's easy to install, easy to use and durable. Simple to configure, with just a small adjustment screwdriver. No fancy software, pushbuttons or anything else. See the photos. Disregard polarity on the voltmeter, I had my probes reversed. Yes, I do have a small voltage drop between the Orion terminals and the batteries but that's something I need to work on. Overall a great module, compact, sturdy and well designed.
J**O
Doesnt work
I replaced an old enerky with this one in hopes of having a more substantial unit and it simply does not charge. I get 14.5 volts in and 10 volts out. I unplugged it, adjusted the output potentiometer and blows a 30 amp fuse on the input. Even a minor adjustment gives the same result . It never once worked. Very disappointed UPDATE, It does work. I ran 8awg cable input with 30 amp fuse initially, pushed it a bit too far so had to upgrade to 40 amp fuse, maxing it put will blow the fuse as well so I would recommend 6awg with a 50 amp fuse input to be safer. Output at max is approximately 600watts or 44 amps which is alot so I wouldn't push it that far. I'm set now a 400watts or approximately 30 amp output
L**V
Starlink mini power
Added this into my airstream to power a Starlink mini. Works great. Remote on/off. It’s Victron so you know it’s going to work.
G**.
Best In Class
Use converter in both RV and Sailboat to boost 12 volts to 24 volts when supplying power to Starlink Mini, which lessens drops and reboots when driving or navigating. Device is well built and simple to configure.
D**D
"Converter" is the key word.
It's a converter, not a charger. It looks like a DC-DC charger in the pictures (and in real time) but it's not. It looks like the smart DC-DC charger sitting next to it on Amazon. Shame on me, I ordered it and didn't figure out the difference until I tried to get it to respond to bluetooth. It didn't, it won't, it can't! Then I started learning how it's different from a charger and the difference is significant, especially if you are installing Lithium Batteries (I am) as it will not provide the correct profile. Looks good if you want to step down 24 volts to 12 though! Nice unit, looks good. I returned it and am expecting the smarty pants, CHARGER version today!
B**T
not working
heeft niet gewerkt dacht dat hij het deed maar naar naar meten nooit gewerkt
A**.
Gutes Ladegerät
Prima Gerät um zwei verschiedene Batteriesorten nebeneinander zu betreiben
Z**N
bon produit
content
D**N
Un nome una garanzia
Solo una parola, perfetto!
G**N
Toller, qualitativ hochwertiger Ladebooster, der hält, was versprochen wird
Sehr guter Ladebooster, der auch die versprochenen Werte erfüllt. Mit der Victron-App kann man ihn als kundiger Laie auch gut einstellen und überwachen. Beim Einbau unbedingt die senkrechte Einbaulage und genügend Platz außen herum wegen der Rippenkühlung auf der Rückseite beachten, da er sonst zu heiß wird, wenn er zu flach und oberhalb ohne genügend Luftraum verbaut ist. Bei sehr engen Einbausituationen sollte man unbedingt die Rückseite mit einem kleinen Lüfter kühlen.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
3 weeks ago