E-Z LOK - 901420-25 E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Zinc, Hex-Flanged, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 25mm Length (Pack of 50)

I have used literally hundreds of these in my woodworking business. Despite the description that they are intended for softer woods, I have also used them in some very hard woods too. I love the flanged tip so if you chamfer the hole a little bit the insert sits flush with the wood surface. This is important when installing support plates or legs with plate mounting so everything sits as it should on the surface of the wood. I turn them by hand, as using a power drill can put too much torque too fast and trust me you don't want one breaking off inside the hole. Luckily, this only happened to me once in the hundreds I have installed and I'm sure it was pilot error. (it was on the first table I ever used them on, and probably had the wrong drill bit size) I have used some other brands but found those broke far too often and just weren't worth it. Stick with E-Z Lok and you will not be disappointed.

Poor manufacturing quality on a sofa which required some adjustments. These inserts did well and the sofa feeds are now stable as they should have been in the first place.

great product

In Western Red Cedar, I found that a 3/8" drill bit is too big, and 5/16" is too small. Had to buy a special 11/32" bit, and that worked perfectly. Make sure to screw your 1/4"-20 screws into the inserts at least 1/2" with light finger touch to avoid cross-threading. I had a few that just wouldn't work at all. But overall, I'm happy.

I used these for two projects so far. I wanted to add castors to a workbench, to raise it and make it mobile at the same time. I took a couple of pieces of 2x4 cut to the width of the bench and inserted 16 of these, 4 per caster. I was then able to screw the 2x4s to the bench and then bolt the casters to the bottom of the bench. Very secure. The second application was securing a mailbox. I wanted blind fasteners but I didn't want to have to rely on wood screws. I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to fill the gap under the mailbox I chose and drilled it to match the mounting points and added inserts. I screwed the plywood onto my mailbox post and could then bolt on the mailbox. it is so much easier to use the bolts than to try to start screws while reaching to the back of the mailbox. And the mailbox is much more secure. The flanged bolts I used won't pull through.

Used these in a subwoofer enclosure. Perfect for 3/4 inch MDF wood.

These inserts are 1" long. I used a 21/64" pilot hole.I used a 1/4"-20 X 1" Round head machine screw. (I added 1/4" lock washers plus the thickness of a metal leg bracket, means the screws could have been 1-1/8" long, but I didn't see that size.).I used these to mount table legs to a 1-1/4" thick Laminated particle board round Table top, 4 Ft. Diameter .I used 8 each, per four legs. (Two previous sets of leg holes with normal large wood screws had both ripped out)These worked very well.I first drilled my 8 holes in each metal table leg bracket slightly larger, to fit my 1/4" machine screws.To align them correctly, I clamped my table legs into position, and then using the actual leg bracket holes as a drilling guide, I drilled 1/4" "starter" guide holes to about 3/4" depth. (being careful to try and keep the drill bit at right angles to table.)I then removed the bracket, and used a drill guide attachment with a depth stop, to drill the larger holes for these inserts to their full depth.(Measuring carefully, and testing on another board first, to be sure I didn't drill through the table top.)I used a standard metal drill bit for these holes, since the v-shaped tip self centers on the existing smaller hole. I finished up the hole bottoms with a flat tipped wood bit. (I was probably being overly cautious, but was worried about going too deep).These inserts have the flange at the top. They did stick up above the surface, which was a problem. (I don't recall seeing the flangeless version in this size). - so, I had to use a flat bit to drill a slight recess(counter-sink) to acommodate the flange.NOTE: you MUST be sure you blow or suck out the remaining wood dust out of the hole, or the insert won't go all the way in correctly (or the metal screw may not seat fully later either, or it might cause a bulge in the table top!I tried putting the first couple inserts in with a drill/driver (hammer drill), with a 6mm sized hex bit. Bad Idea. It was fine till last 1/4" left to go, then it got harder, and the hammer drill would kick in and if it didn't go in quick, it stripped out the Hex Opening. (The metal isn't all that hard.) One insert was sticking out enough so I could use a vice-grip to remove it. The other was close enough so I used a metal file to file it down flush. Be sure no metal shavings remain in the hole since that could be bad when screwing in the metal screws.I had much better results using a normal L-shaped 6MM Hex wrench and doing it by hand. That also gave me a better feel for how it was going in.I had drilled a slight recess for the fnanges, but if any metal was still sticking above the surface, I filed it flush with a metal file.After the first four hard ones, I remembered the old WAX trick. I took a candle, and cut off a chunk, melted it in a tin can, and dunked each of the inserts into the melted wax about 1/4" from the top. The rest of the inserts then cut much cleaner threads, and went in with MUCH less effort and more control. It was WELL worth the extra step.These inserts work far better than wood screws in particle board. - and the metal screws are removable later, which is exactly what you want for table legs. (especially when moving time comes).I used it with these screws (also on Amazon):Morris Products 30464 Round Head Machine Screw, 1/4"-20 X 1"

Insertos roscados de buena calidad

Did the job exactly as I hoped it would. I used it to install a swimming ladder on our dock at the cottage. I wanted to be able to take the ladder off for the winter.

Très pratique pour mettre en place des taureaux dans du bois

I have used these in a number of jigs. I like them, but try to get them in straight. It's best have a long hex wrench or chuck a hex in a drill press so you can screw them in the hole very straight and perpendicular to the wood

Buena calidad aunque de material muy suave, creí que era de acero inoxidable, aunque es eficiente a secas.