✨ Unleash the Shine: Your Wood Deserves It! ✨
The Environmental Technology2128 128-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On is a high-performance, solvent-free coating designed to preserve and enhance wood surfaces. With a waterproof, heat, and alcohol-resistant formula, this clear, high-gloss finish covers approximately 32 square feet, making it ideal for both interior and exterior projects. Its UV and moisture-resistant properties ensure durability, while its eco-friendly composition aligns with sustainable practices.
Item Weight | 9 Pounds |
Liquid Volume | 256 Fluid Ounces |
Item Dimensions | 4.5 x 9.5 x 10.5 inches |
Size | gallon |
Style | Gloss |
Opacity | 1 inches |
Finish Type | Painted |
Color | Clear |
Paint Type | Water Based |
Base Material | Plastic |
Compatible Material | Wood |
Material | Plastic |
Warranty Type | Limited |
Recommended Uses For Product | Exterior, Interior, Cabinets, Crafts |
Surface Recommendation | Wood |
Special Features | UV Resistant, Moisture Resistant |
Container Type | Jug |
Coverage | 32 square feet |
Coating Description | The coating is a high-gloss, durable, waterproof, heat and alcohol resistant surface coating. |
A**9
Excellent Method for Making Artwork Look Impressive
I have covered at least 10 pieces in this epoxy resin, and I love the results. It looks like glass or 50 coats of varnish. I took the time to learn how to do it right, both by watching all the YouTube videos demonstrating it and watching an artist friend of mine do it in person (and her pieces sell for thousands!). It works well on mounted wooden panels. If you want to use it on canvas, wrap the canvas around a wooden panel (just like you would stretch canvas over bars) and staple into the back.You will need a mask for the fumes (I feel like Darth Vader when I'm wearing it), rubber gloves, a heat gun (this helps get out the bubbles), two paper mixing buckets and a big paint stir stick, two clear plastic "party" cups (I use ones with stripes to help me with the measuring), shims and a level, a toothpick to get out bits of dust from the surface while it's wet, and a cheap chip brush or foam brush to spread it around. I use painter's tape on the bottom of the piece to make it easier to remove the drips without having to sand them off (I remove the tape after about 4 hours, before everything's really hardened, but the pieces are still tacky at this point, so it's a tricky operation). I also elevate the pieces so they're not sitting in the dripped off resin. A cheap plastic tablecloth will protect your work surface, and the dried resin will peel right off it.So many of the materials (gloves, buckets, cups, stick, and brush) all have to be thrown away afterwards, that it's better to do several projects at once, although not more than you can manage in the time frame before it starts to set. A large cardboard box or a clear plastic container should be set over the finished piece for the first two days while it dries. Dust and little hairs are your worst enemy when using this process, so try to do it in a low-dust environment, and use a strong light to check the surface for the little buggers while it's still wet.I have done this successfully over photographs, but I have to seal the photos first (this also works with paper). I messed up a few before I figured out the best way to do this. I mount the photos on a painted wooden panel with spray glue, then I spray the picture with fixative, which seems to help protect it. Then I spray on a clear acrylic finish. Then I paint on clear acrylic gloss medium (which is like varnish). I used to go straight from the glue stage to the gloss medium, but that's when I would run into trouble getting the picture too wet and smeared. The two steps in between have eliminated any problems with that. Be sure to allow the piece to dry thoroughly after each step. The gloss medium might not be necessary, since I've used the spray acrylic, but I'm going for a thick, deep, shiny effect.Anyway, once you get the hang of the process, you will be eager to try it on everything! I looked at this item in art supply stores, but Amazon has the best price.
K**.
Great Product
I was very hesitant to use this product, however after buying the product I went on YouTube for an instructional video and my fears were laid to rest. The high gloss resin took my table top from a bland look to an unbelievable look. It's super easy to work with, and very forgiving as far as self-leveling. The biggest tip I can offer is to have a propane torch ready to take the air bubbles out. Use the torch fairly quickly after pouring; don't wait until it sets to do this.
M**L
Great for bar tops, looks like glass
This stuff works extremely well. I used it for a large stained oak bar top that I built and I am very happy with the results. I didn't do a skim coat as directed and the results are still amazing. Lots of complements. It can be a little hectic coating large projects before it begins to set, but you should have PLENTY of time to complete even when using a full gallon. I have some tips for everyone, especially considering some of the reviews I read here that are CLEARLY user error and not reading the instructions.1. Mix, mix and mix some more. This is definitely where most people go wrong when they say it never set. I did a couple of small test batches and the first stayed tacky. Why, I purposely only mixed it half the recommended time. When you mix it, there will be a ton of bubbles. Don't worry, they will come out. Scrape the sides of the container you are mixing in VERY well. If you miss any, you will get a soft spot. This is not a flaw of the product...its called two part epoxy for a reason.2. Have or buy a propane torch before you apply! As I said before, the bubbles will come out, but you need a torch. Turn it on low and just go back and forth over your piece. Most bubbles come out very easily. Don't stay in one place too long or you will ripple the finish. I checked my work every 10 minutes over an hour and a half to pop the littler bubbles that will inevitably come out of the wood. Be patient and vigilant. Good results takes patience.3. Turn off your forced air system. Why? This product stays tacky for about 2-3 hours depending on the temperature and will become a dust magnet. The less air movement in your house, the better. Even if dust does settle, you can only see it from some angles, so its not that big an issue. You could probably polish them out, but I haven't. Some dust is just a fact of life.4. Lastly, level your piece for flat surfaces. The stuff is pretty viscous, but it will gradually succumb to gravity. Using some trim to form a lip is also useful to float an even coat over your work.Hope that helps!
K**G
First time user.....
Wow. That is it. I wasn't expecting to pour this on my countertops, but after adding the mica flakes, I didn't have an option if I wanted a smooth finish. I was definitely nervous as I have very large areas to cover. I watched a ton of videos and read quite a few blogs, so I thought I was prepared. NOT! I have one very, very important piece of advice to anyone that plans on using this. Buy more than you think you need, and don't skimp on it!I thought that I didn't want to waste a lot of the product, so I went light near the edges of the countertops, resulting in a drippy, uneven feel. I repoured and the second coat and fixed some of the issues, but by then, I was running out of product near the wall. The result was an uneven pour that I was only able to correct by ordering more product, (which took a week to get), sanding and recoating everything. Make sure to cover the floors with dropcloths, because the drips make quite the mess!The end result is beautiful, but the length of time without use of the countertops was excessive, due to my miscalculations. The product is wonderful, and I love my countertops! If I had to do it again, I would definitely buy what I thought I needed, and add in an extra gallon for good measure.
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
2 months ago