OTC Puller, Pitmanarm, 2jaw - 6496

I have a 1996 Chevy C1500. I needed a pitman arm puller to remove mine. The local stores had pitman arm pullers for about $30 but they were too small. The gap between the ears was about 1 5/16 inches and I needed about 1 5/8 inches. I saw this one on Amazon and it said it worked on my truck. But it was too small. The gap between the ears was about 1 5/16 inches. So I put it on the bench grinder and removed a little more than 1/8 inch from each ear. This allowed it to fit. I applied PB Blaster penetrant oil to the threads on the puller first. Not sure if this was necessary. I used a 15/16 box end wrench. The puller is very strong. It did not break, flex, or shift in any way. I had to use a cheater bar on the end of my wrench. The wrench was about 12 inches long and the cheater bar was about 12 inches. I’d estimate I applied about 100 lb of force. So with a 2 foot torque arm, I applied about 200 ft-lbs of torque and it did not fail. It removed my pitman arm. Could I have purchased a $30 puller locally and ground the ears to make it fit? I don’t know. I will say this puller looked considerably stronger than O’Reilley’s and Harbor Freight. It is thicker and heavier and just looks considerably stronger. Good luck!

It’s very straight forward to use and boy does it work. No Harbor freight tool here!

This tool worked perfectly to remove the pitman arm on my 4wd 2004 suburban 1500 without having to unbolt the power steering box! As you can see in the pic, things are pretty rusty, & I didn't hit anything with rust penetrate in advance, yet this tool managed to get the job done without fail! I greased the threads & the swivel head of the bolt which I feel helped immensely. I also kept the gigantic 1-5\16" nut on the end of the gear box shaft to help gain the necessary surface area for the tool to seat without slipping off. I made sure that the nut was almost flush\backed off the shaft just a tiny bit, since the tools swivel part was right on the bitter edge of the shaft without the nut & looked like it might slip off and\or damage the threads of the shaft. This method proved to be exactly what it took to get the job done! Once it felt like the tool was getting pretty tight I would hit the backside of the pitman arm w a 5lb sledge a few times & go back to crnking down on the puller again, & the those hits would help make it a bit easier to turn again; until it eventually popped off!I was really hesitant to spend the extra $ for this particular version of a pitman arm puller, but in the end, I'm SUPER GLAD I did! It was as if this tool exists specifically for this particular job! It couldn't have been any more painless & hassle free! -I was really dreading having to perfom this task knowing how "involved" it was, & (I cannot say it enough) this tool made the job a BREEZE!!!As the saying goes: "right tool for the job"... And this tool is most definitely, without question, absolutely, positively the BEST possible tool for the job!!!Even if you only use it once, the amount of frustration it will save you is priceless, & worth every penny over your "average" puller!!!

I bought this with some reservations since I have had some pitman arms resist removal to the point of breaking impact driven pullers and requiring heat and this can only be operated with a regular wrench (you can get a box wrench in there though) and not an impact. But I didn't want to have to take the steering box out of the truck and I knew it is a tight area to work with.Well it worked perfectly. Popped the pitman arm off my 2004 Silverado SS very easily. I lubed the threads and the thrust surfaces of the nose adapter with high pressure grease that came with a Mac steering wheel puller kit I have prior to use. I suspect some people not having luck with this don't lube it before using it and it could gall the threads and bind which will severely reduce the torque delivered to pulling the arm off the shaft of the steering box. I even used the puller to remove the idler link on the same truck as well just by removing the nose adapter since the idler shaft is longer.Just an impressive tool that saves a lot of time and hassle and not too expensive for all the functionality you get. Just a note on the picture - Mine is not black and is silver with some sort of basic plating on it so it won't corrode.

The tool works exactly like it should and saved a lot of time not having to pull the steering box out. It seems sturdy and I would recommend buying one. It fiton a 2000 suburban without taking any lines or mounting bolts off.

A big help replacing pitman arm on 2001 2500HD although it's a little wider than the one that I already had so still had to loosen gearbox

2006 GMC 2500HD Duramax. Got my Pitman arm off. I tightened it and tapped on it and tightened and tapped 5 minutes it was off. Didn't loosen my gearbox. Didn't have to cut into the pitman arm. I'd buy it again after watching other peoples video's of their removals

This is the pitman arm puller you need to remove the pitman arm with the steering gear in the vehicle. It was still kind of a tight squeeze to get it into place, especially with the brake like located right in the way, but fits into place just fine. Definitely not doable with a standard pitman arm puller such as the one found in the OTC 5 piece set. Definitely a very solid piece, worth the cost. Used on a 2002 Ford Expedition 4X4.

Tool worked amazingly, easy to use and effortless. Tight quarters, but easy to use. Due to wrong parts being sold to me, i had to use this tool three times, it worked great all three times

Used this to change the pitman arm on my 2003 f150 4 wd. Worked excellent. No need to pull the box off the frame.

Came on time, would work great for a 1500. But on the 1500HD the design is not good enough. If you grind it down you can make it work to get the pitman off but if your unlucky like me you will strip the treads on it because it's not strait on the shaft.