Cast Acrylic Sheet - .118" Thick, TP Green, 12" x 12" Nominal

Going to make some superman kryptonite props and the clear green translucent is perfect. You definitely need a strong cutting source to cut into the sheet because it's hard acrylic and scoring with a blade won't do it. I used a Dremel saw blade bit that Dr's use and it cut well enough for my purposes. I was covered in green dust after...lol. Take your time and go over cuts if it lags, let the blade do the work. Acrylic can be stiff to work with but a strong material that holds up.

Used this to build a display in a radar prop. The green was spot on and let just amount of the light in while also making the inside easy to see. Work-ability was pretty easy too, the protective paper protected the surface and I was able to cut a 6" diameter circle using a Bosch 1617 router. No burn marks or cracking, edges came out smooth!

I used this for lenses in a cosplay project, it worked perfectly. Used a diamond dremel wheel to cut the shapes I needed, cut like butter. I also needed to shape it slightly and used a heat gun to conform it. It took the heat well without causing any notable defects.Packaging was perfect, arrived in a thick flat box.

I'm making a Halloween costume that among other things has a gas mask. To make the gas mask look a little scarier, I purchased a 12 x12 of green and red .125" acrylic and cut circles out and used them as eye pieces to replace the clear lenses found on most gas masks. Here's how I did it:1. Make sure you have a good face mask(eye, nose and mouth) to protect you from acrylic particles that will fly into the air while cutting. Also, the little acrylic particles will get everywhere so be prepared to clean up with more than a broom or do it in your backyard.2. Get yourself a decent craft cutting tool like this one I got on Amazon: Dremel 4000-2/30 120-Volt Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit for $79.993. With a pencil, take the eye-piece(or whatever circle you want to reproduce), and place it on the acrylic board(leave the brown backing paper on), and trace a circle. Then, remove the eye piece and take a rule and draw two lines that intersect at the dead center of the circle. These two lines will help guide you while cutting.4. Using the cutting tool, make shallow cuts along the circle line you traced, making sure not to "push through" at this point. Do that maybe 4 times, getting a little deeper with each cut. By the time you've made a fourth pass, the acrylic will be brittle enough to pop out.5. Using a polish tool, smooth out the edges.The acrylic itself seems pretty standard to me, I'm not an expert on plastics. I can tell you that it is transparent enough that I can see through the red and green acrylic lenses as clear as any tinted glasses you can buy at the store. It will also scratch as easy as cheap tinted glasses as well, but that's in the item description. Also, it is firm and when broken tends to turn into sharp shards as opposed to flaky chunks.

Great value for what I used it for. Used two pieces to create viewing portals for 40W LED laser. Worked great, although wouldnt suggest using it if anything higher then 40W.

I wanted a filter to add onto outdoor low-voltage lighting: durable enough for the weather, color-saturated for a strong color projection on the up-lights but transparent enough to not over-dim the lights. This worked perfectly.Keep in mind that this is a thick, stiff plastic. It's not something you can cut to shape with scissors - you need a fine-tooth coping saw to cut it. Treated roughly it can crack - as I found out using a coarse saw!Over LED lighting it worked well, but over incandescent lighting the heat -might- warp it.I'd certainly buy it again. I bought a comparable RED sheet from another Amazon vendor and my experience was the same.

I like this because it protects my eyes when I peer in to see how my laser engraver is doing on a project.

Works well and cuts easily on my CNC, matched their description and am very happy with it.