15Pcs PCB Protoboards,YUNGUI 5X7cm 1-2-3 Perf Board Circuit Board Strip for Electronic Project and Electronic Experiment

I used these for prototyping and so far so good.

These small boards are ideal for many projects, especially IC projects like op amps or logic chips. Enough room for all the supporting components.

Lets start with the cons, which should be obvious, but since people are confused: No, these are not plated through hole PCBs. Yes, soldering on them will be different than through hole PCBs since the solder won't wick through. You won't get the mechanical strength you will from plated through holes. But these are cheap, you get what you pay for.That said, these are great for small projects and beginners. Spacing is good so it's hard to bridge. Holes are drilled out well. Layout is good for DIPs. I haven't had any problems with lifting pads, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's hard to desolder since they're not plated holes. So far they're working for me. Just wish we had dimensions for mounting holes.

one sided board with two vertical rails in the center, and tri-node paths near the dip in center. toward the outer edges, they are single net pads. Single sided, and holes are not plated. 0.1 inch centers. great little board for breadboards using DIP and Thru-hole components.

these boards are really low quality. the pads have no through vias so only one side can be soldered. the pads are also very weak and tear off with any stress. boards are also coated in some slightly tacky substance which burns very easily. would not recommend. the pad arrangement is also quite annoying.

The pattern on these boards are very useful. Easy to sold and are of decent quality.

I am a hobbyist board repair and retro game console modder. I picked these up because they had various trace connections lengths and orientations and I thought it would reduce the amount of jumper wires I would need to solder with other breadboard style prototype boards that are just rows of traces.I see (3) main issues with these boards. I can see these being a huge problem for beginners and for that would not recommend it for beginners or anyone who hasn't soldered in awhile.1. As others have mentioned the traces do not go all the way through so that somewhat reduces the utility that I gained with other boards, but I worked out a system to help here. I would keep the leads long on some components so I can pass them through then back up into another section. This requires a lot more planning ahead of time though.note: if you do get these, make sure you put the components on the side without the trace so you can solder them, then cut off the extra lead.2. Again as others have mentioned, the trace quality and mounting is poor and they don't take to heat very well. To counter this I cranked the heat up on my iron to ~800F to get a good solder. The problem with this is that at that temperature, its much easier to burn the board and/or traces and destroy them. For beginners this can be a challenge because this means you need to be good with flux and solder application to quickly get it locked in and not cause damage.3. I think this was also mentioned too, but the way the solder flows on the trace bars isn't great (which is why I raised temperature), but this also causes problems when trying to keep the solder over one of the holes and not flow to surrounding holes.The first three pics are of me using this board, and the last 2 are me using a breadboard style board. You can see a clear difference in quality of solder joints. Both of these boards are the same circuit with differing design and components.

I liked the Radio Shack on the board . Reminds me of the past and these boards are very handy too. I would like to see more similarly designed boards