CERAKOTECeramic Headlight Restoration Kit – Guaranteed To Last As Long As You Own Your Vehicle – Brings Headlights Back to Like New Condition - No Power Tools Required - 10 Wipe Kit

Excellent product and works very well in specific circumstances but will not fix all headlight issues. Would suggest visiting their website and watching the application instructional video as it will tell you what kind of headlight damage it will repair and what it cannot fix. It is designed to repair yellow headlights where the plastic is dull or clouded. It will not fix headlights with deep cracks, broken plastic, gouges, spider web cracks or anything inside the headlight.Fortunately the headlights on my 10 year old Nissan were just yellow and the product worked exactly as advertised. It took out the yellow and dullness out of the outer plastic surface and restored them to a crystal clear finish.Process was straightforward and relatively easy. You do need a few minor items not included in the box such as some towels/rags, a spray bottle for water helps, and some masking/painters tape. Work can be done without these items but it helps to have them especially the towels. Instead of the tape I just used a piece of cardboard to keep the product off the paint.It highlights that you don’t need a power tool to sand the lights and it comes with a hand sanding tool which works fine. Of course if you have a power sander and want to use that you can, but you will need your own 2000 and 3000 grit sand paper as the disks in the box may not work. I did the sanding by hand as the damage was minimal but for headlights where the plastic has degraded more than a couple millimeters deep you might want a power sander to grind down the plastic faster.Also plan for the process to take about 2 hours before you are ready to drive. The work itself is very easy and only takes about 30 minutes but there are a couple of required drying times before you can complete each of the 3 steps. For example after step 2 you have to wait until the lights are completely dry and it is recommended to wait about an hour before starting step 3. After step 3 the product needs to cure and again they recommend about an hour of drying time before the process is done. Again the work is simple and easy it is just the drying process that takes up most of the time.Highly recommend the product as it turned my headlights almost completely back to their original condition. If you look very close you can tell they are not as new as replacement headlights, but this less than $20 product gets them beyond close enough to new for this price point.

This is by good measure the best Headlight Restoration kit I have come to know about. Watching the video, you would be moved to doubt the claims, if you have used a kit requiring power tools to sand and buff--What a pain.In less than one hour you can restore very rough headlights to like new condition. Every thing about Cerakote Ceramic Headlight Restoration kit is just good. The packing is very attractive, the quality of the supplied materials is very high, and generous, and above all the result is outstanding. You have to try it to believe.Hope it last long.

This product works so well, the amount of effort and time you spend on it is far exceeded by the results, it's almost like magic. Look at my before and after pictures and see for yourself.The headlights I used this on were oxidized, I normally use headlight polish on it every month or so to clear it up but it takes a lot of effort, the results aren't amazing and it only lasts a few months. The before pictures show the extent of it after a complete wash and wipe down with isopropyl alcohol. The instructions were clear, though I did notice one typo, it mentions to use a red sanding pad followed by gray, but my kit came with red and green, I just assumed green for gray and it was fine.After washing the headlights you must dry it thoroughly and if you sprayed water all around, dry or soak up as much water from the surrounding area as possible. This is important, you don't want wind to move standing water so that it sprays onto the headlight at the worst time (like the clear coat step), take no chances. If you have an electric duster, an 18V job site blower, or an air compressor, use those to blow all standing water away.If you get water into the hood while washing, don't lower the hood until the headlights are fully done and you waited for the clear coat to dry/cure completely according to instructions. The hood in the up position can hold water in it, it has drain holes to drain water out when it's laying down flat, if you lower the hood before the clear coat is dry the water will run out of the drain holes right onto your uncured headlights, leave the hood up.Most of the time and effort you spend will be on the sanding step and that depends on the size of your headlight and how intricate it is, headlights with intricate designs and reliefs will be annoying, you'll have to use the sandpaper by itself without the foam grip and fold it and spend a lot of time on edges and corners. In addition to the instructions I highly recommend you mask off the entire surrounding area with painter's tape, make sure you fold the painter's tape over and into the gap between the headlight and the bumper or fender.The nail biting part is at the end when you're applying the clear coat, you obviously don't want to mess it up, you're undoubtedly going to notice you missed a tiny spot, despite the directions saying not to go over it in multiple passes, I did it anyway and it turned out fine, you just want to do it quickly before it has time to set. The clear coat is sorcery, it self levels, I even saw a few tiny air bubbles and those all disappeared, after an hour it was dry and the finish not only looked 100% clear, it was completely free of defects and texturing, it literally (I can't emphasize this enough) looked like a brand new headlight. I expected a clear coat applied with a small gauze pad to be uneven, have visible strokes and texturing (like brush strokes), instead it's completely level with no marks and has no texture whatsoever, when I rub my fingers over it the surface feels shiny, reflective, slippery, like a new headlight. The result was so good I kept staring at it for over ten minutes at all angles.The whole job probably took me roughly one and a half hours from start to finish including masking, washing and drying the headlights. The sanding steps take the longest, the clear coat step is done in a minute or two. Time will tell how long it will last, if it even lasts a year I'll be happy.The pictures show driver's side "before" (I didn't take a picture of passenger side "before" but it looked the same), then an after shot for both driver and passenger side.Some things about the "before" shot:1. It may look like light oxidation because you can still see through it, that oxidation is lighter than it normally would be, it hasn't been that long since I last polished it with headlight polish. Had I left it for a few more months it would have become totally opaque.2. If you're wondering why there's a sharp line where it becomes completely transparent, that's where the hood sits and blocks the UV (like a farmer's tan).