Electric SW38C Aftermarket Trigger Switch (Eaton Style) Replaces OEM 391926-01 and 391926-00

The OEM trigger switch gave up and no longer able to operate the miter saw. I had to make sure that the motor is still operable so i simply connect 2 wires from position 1 and 3 and leaving the 2 wires connected to 2 & 4 just hanging then plugged the tool to 120VAC and motor turned. Had to do a bit of trimming using my dremel tool to have the new trigger switch snugged fit and no obstruction to freely move back to reset position. I did not have to change the wiring orientation as mine came in exactly like the OEM wire design. Miter saw operational once more and will have more years of use so long as you take good care of it and clean after each use.I had several experience with different power tools with OEM trigger switch just going bad after several years of use and kept in storage. The electrical contact inside seems to be main culprit why this switches tend to go bad over a long period of time even if not used frequently.Overall i am very satisfied giving this replacement trigger switch a 5 stars and BEYOND!

If you need to replace the trigger switch on your DeWalt Model 705 Miter Saw, you can save about $20 by buying this switch and a new DeWalt Handle (search for ASIN # B00BSCNQCI) instead of the Black and Decker kit that sells for over $52. The early versions of this miter saw had a square-ish shaped handle and the switch is no longer available for it. To fix the switch, you must replace the handle as well. The only other things you’ll need are 4 insulated female crimp connectors (blue) to fit the switch. The handle doesn’t come with screws, but all the screws from the old handle work fine.My miter saw is the 705 Type 3 (I make no claims for any other Type number), and this switch and handle combination works perfectly, though there are a few things to note. First, view the video on YouTube on how to change the switch and handle. You’ll see it’s not that difficult. Second, save all the screws when you remove the old handle and switch, and note which ones go where. Third, you’ll be reusing the black carrying handle, so don’t throw it away (if you need a new one, you might as well buy the complete Black and Decker kit).Most importantly, wire it as per the video. The switch has four terminals. Two are normally closed and two are normally open (it shows you which is which on the body of the switch). The two black wires go to the right (normally open) side of the switch as you face the front of the saw. The yellow and red wires go to the left (normally closed) side of the switch. Whether you get the B&D kit or use this switch and the separate handle, it’s wired the same way. Ignore the wiring instructions that come with the B&D kit.As per the video, you don’t use the existing strain relief (heave rubber cover where the cord exits the handle) or the metal piece that holds the cord down.The photo shows my 20+ year old saw with the new handle. Maybe I’ll get another 20 years out of it.

i bought this for my older Dewalt 705 type 2. on that particular saw, the handle design is a bit different than newer types, so this one does end up being a bit smaller but that’s not a big deal in terms of functionality. the other things to note have to do with wiring it up. on my particular saw, the old switch had one black and one colored wire on each side of the switch. on this switch, you should have both blacks on one side and both colors on one side. the terminals for me were also reversed, so the first time i wired it the saw would turn on immediately and stop when you pull the trigger, but all i had to do was switch what side the wires went to meaning i just swapped both blacks to the other side and same with the colored ones and after that, it worked perfectly. people complaining that it doesn’t work when they hook it up the exact way the wires were on the old switch are the ones at fault, it’s not the switches fault that they ignored the wiring diagram that is clearly printed on the switch. the only reason i can’t give it 5 stars is because i do know that some people will refuse to look at the diagram and will inevitably wire it up wrong, and that it’s not the exact same size as the old switch (which i can’t really blame this switch for considering that the old style just simply isn’t made anymore). it will absolutely work for your dewalt 705, you just have to make sure you pay attention to the small details to make it work as it should.

Should have read the negative reviews. So many positive reviews say it's a direct replacement. It's NOT. The wiring configuration is different, so if you wire it like the old switch, it will burn out your motor. Can be modified to work - but pay close attention. Fit is not exact either but can also be made to work. Good price, but probably not worth the $20 savings for risking your saw.

I had to replace the power switch on my 12" DeWalt miter saw when I replaced a broken handle; the new handle wouldn't accommodate the original switch. Although routing all the wires in the replacement handle was a challenge, the SW 38C Aftermarket Trigger switch did the job, and my saw now works like new again.

Bought to fit my older 12" chop saw and the trigger did not fit sadly, however the folks understood and gave me a full refund the same day I contacted them.

I had to cut some plastic in the clamshell to make it fit and re-route the wiring to correctly wire it but now it works great! It worked in my Dewault model DW705 miter saw.