PS344510 AND PS345113 DRYER CYCLING THERMOSTAT WITH INTERNAL BIAS HEATER OPENS AT 155F, CLOSES AT 130F & THERMAL FUSE for All Major Brand Dryers

I only needed the thermal fuse, but all the DIY Professional advice stated to replace BOTH items at the same time...This was a really good price for the two components, so followed good advice and purchased them.Installed quickly and easily and had dryer up and running in quick order.Have had no issues so far with dryers operation.

did the job, alas the dryer had additional issues and went to appliance heaven shortly after...

It took perhaps 15 minutes total to take the back off my Roper dryer, swap these two parts in, then replace the back. The dryer works like new again for 5% the cost of a new dryer.I don't know if these will last as long as the originals did, but for the price, I don't mind replacing them every couple of years.There are Youtube videos that show how to install these, so if your dryer just quit, don't be afraid. Just buy this, watch a couple of videos, and save yourself a bundle.

Thermal fuse was all I needed and it worked. Thermostat was changed out since I got a new one with the order and my dryer started acting up. Dryer would not turn off even when the dryer door was opened. I put my old thermostat back and that solved the problem, so I'm assuming the thermostat was no good.

My 10 year-old Whirlpool dryer (model LER7648PQ1) stopped heating during the dry cycle. After testing the heating element, cycling thermostat, thermal fuse, and high temperature thermostat, it was evident that the cycling thermostat was bad. The Whirlpool part number for the cycling thermostat was 3387134, so I purchased this cycling thermostat and thermal fuse as a replacement. After the replacement, I tried drying clothes on the "automatic dry" cycle, only to find that clothes never dried completely - the load would end up as either damp or wet. Clearly, the cycles ended prematurely and I had to dry the load a second time. After 10 days, the dryer stopped heating in its entirety. I pulled the "new" cycling thermostat to find the casing had cracked and part of the bimetalic strip within was rattling loose. So I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Whirlpool 3387134 factory part. Loads have dried perfectly ever since; clearly indicating that at least for my dryer, this replacement part is substandard and a poor choice. I have an Efergy energy monitor, and have attached pictures showing electricity consumption against time comparing the aftermarket thermostat and the genuine Whirlpool thermostat. They are dramatically different.The aftermarket thermostat (the item being reviewed here - upper graph) holds temperature for a short time (~17:50-17:59), cools down to much lower than 130F before closing again, and then goes through several short heating cycles (18:00-18:25). After which, the dryer has a low energy demand for about 20 minutes (18:28-18:40). Total run time of about 45 minutes, with a load that remained damp and I had to dry them a second time - another 45 minutes.The genuine Whirlpool thermostat (lower graph) looks very different. The initial cycles are longer, and the thermostat doesn't cool completely before closing (18:30-18:50). After this, it goes through several cycles of decreasing time - as one would anticipate if the load is actually drying, before finishing up just before 19:30. Total drying time was just under one hour, and the load was dried perfectly.Drying clothes twice due to inappropriate thermostat function wastes time and energy. So, at least for Whirlpool dryers, I do not recommend this aftermarket cycling thermostat.

The thermostat worked for a year. Then it failed. The original lasted 8 years and was still working when I replaced it due o the fuse failure. At least the fuse still works.

I was kind of hoping for a new dryer, but when I could fix the old one with this for less than 10 bucks I decided to keep the old one. Not only did this fix my immediate problem (the dryer would not start) it also fixed the low heat setting that had been not working for several years.The thermostat does not look exactly like the 20+ year old one it replaced but it fits and functions just fine. You can't hook it up wrong because the two sets of wires have different size spade connectors.

All I needed was the thermal fuse to get my dryer going again, but it was a lot cheaper than any other sites I looked on. Didn't take long to replace & has been working just fine.