RGEEK24-Pin ATX PSU - 12V DC Input, 450W Peak Output, Mini ITX PC Power Supply

Have this running my backup TrueNas with 15w APU and four 10TB 7200 rpm drives. Running stool and stable. Last PSU was an ITX PSU at 300w and it literally burned itself out in a few months. Nothing but burning electronics smell. The entire system has a max draw of 40 watts. Thought I lost the drives at least, if not the entire PC. Back up and running perfectly with this little guy running on a 40amp 12v PSU I like to be waaaay over needed watts for reliability and efficiency.

Would not stay powered on.

Working ok so far with a caveat.I'm using a power 500watt brick from g-unique and a load switch from revoccase to run a higher powered gpu so the pico psu just has to worry about sata and cpu/mb power.Also removed the barrel connectors and wiring for 12awg wire and a single xt60 to the load switch.Power readings are pretty stable and spot on in this configuration

For years I've used pico psu's and external power bricks in tiny ITX builds without descrete GPU's. Love the near silence and lack of clutter. Stable 4K HDR videos rarely steamed well with internal GPU's built-in to the CPU's. Now, with this two power input pico, Intel i5 12400, and AMD 6600 4K HDR streaming is great. I believe 8K may also work with an 8K TV. The internal power brick is 240w which can drive the system alone. The external 120w brick can be plugged in for stress testing or gaming, which I don't do. The system is near silent and temps run in the mid 30's. Clean build with little clutter.

Hewegg.com calculated my ATX i5 6600K with (2) 8GB DDR4 plus three hard drives to require 227 watts. So I purchased the 250 watt model and blew it up. Knowing I should not have cut it so close, I purchased the 450 watt model thinking I had plenty of watts to spare and installed a 30A fuse to guard it. I turned the computer on and the 30A fuse blew immediately. 30 Amps at 14 Volts (charger was on) means I pulled 420 Watts before blowing the fuse. I reverted back to 125 Volt power supply, and attached my ampere meter. Push the button to turn the computer and and my ammeter recorded a peak current of 5 Amps at 125 Volts which is 625 Watts. How could Newegg be so wrong? Well, once the computer is on and idle, it draws only 0.4 Amps at 125 Volts which is 50 Watts. Newegg shows the running power, not the peak power required to start up. So... Watch your peak power and test it with an ammeter that will record max before wasting a bunch of money on DC-DC power supplies that are not rated high enough for your computer to initially turn on.

For reference later; the height of the psu is 30mm as measured from the lip of thw atx connector to the top of the board. Works well so far up to 180watts. Going to upgrade later to 320 watt system.Cable length is short enough to prevent hassle with cable management.

Mine was DOA. It would only function when connecting the on signal pins. It would never power on the motherboard. 3 different motherboards to be exact.

Ordered a total of 4. 2 were duds, but amazon was quick on return and re-dispatch. (One had no -12v on MB, another wouldn't power sata). Build 4 identical ryzen 2700X machines with these using DC power supplies and 12v backup batteries. Very little heat, no perceptible coil whine. Power looks a little dirty but the stress test comes back fine.