Car Body Protection CERAMIC ARMOR COAT Nanotekas | The Special 9h Nano Coating For Car Paint and Body

I applied this product five years ago, and yes it was a lot of work. Wash, compound, polish, clay-bar, silicone removal spray, and then apply product. It won't improve your car's paint so you want to perform all the preceding steps to insure that what you protect is a quality finish. If you put this over swirl marks, they will still be there when you're done.My process took 10-hours, and I had some applicator error areas that required me to wet-sand the ooops off and reapply. However, when all done, it looks amazing. Nano-silica changes the way light refracts so the finish looks like it has 10 coats of Carnauba wax on it, but wax requires reapplication every three months (less in Florida) and this stuff has stayed just like it was first applied for five years. I do garage my car, and only drive about 5,000 miles per year, but still... 5-years of 9-H protection and super hydrophobic performance without any maintenance other than washing, is fantastic.If you want a quick and easy product, this isn't it. It requires attention to detail, and rewards you with amazing performance. While my finish still looks like new, I'm buying another kit because this time I don't have to compound and polish. I'll clay-bar and remove potential oils and silicone, but that's it before reapplying. the first time took 10-hours, and I estimate this time will take 3-4 hours, but with wax, I spent 60-90 minutes every 60-days. In five years that's 30-45 HOURS of labor saved in 5-years! An entire work-week that I don't have to spend waxing my car.

This review is based on the application process. At the end of the day, I think most products at this level last approximately the same time and are probably pretty close in overall quality. So for the application and removal, be prepared to get the buffer out and redo the bad spots... and there will be plenty of them. I have been detailing my own cars for 35 years. I've used about every product out there but I am new to the paint coating game. I read the instructions and watched the video but it does not prepare you for how difficult this product is to use. The instructions say to wipe off immediately, and you better wipe it off sooner than immediately. I wiped the product off while it appeared to be very wet. I did not wait for it to dry or haze up. However, even though the top layer was moist, the bottom most layer had began to dry and haze up and it left a grey blemish on the trunk of my black car. You cannot simply add product and get the area damp again and wipe off. All you're doing by adding more product is putting more protection on top of your screw up. Once this stuff is applied to your paint, it is going to remain there until you remove it with a buffer. Thus, I had to get the buffer out and redo my trunk lid and various other blotches around he car. Since you have to wipe the product off while it's wet, you will smear it onto other portions of your ajacent panels and that smear will dry and leave a splotchy spot that will have to be buffed out. You will need to buff out over a dozen spots by the time your all done. Even when you divide panels into sections, this stuff will leave a high-lighted line showing where you stopped if you don't get the entire edge 100% off the paint. If you leave a millimetre line of product on to let you know where you stopped, it will leave a mark that will need to be buffed off with a buffer. You can not get any mark, any haze, any line off with more product, more elbow grease, etc. You will get real familiar with your buffer. When whipping off the wet product, you have to get 100% of the product off the panel you did, the adjacent panels you may have inadvertently touched with the pad, or anywhere you may have wiped with your towel while trying to remove the wet product. If you leave the slightest haze when whipping it off, that haze will become a spot you will have to buff out, even the haze that is a foot away that the towel left that you thought was nothing while you were frantically trying to wipe all this wet stuff off..... you cannot leave any product whatsoever or it will dry and leave a splotchy spot. I was not thrilled with the small applicator pad either. It is round and about the size of a silver dollar. Since it is round, you cannot go close to any edge and stay on the edge because it isn't a square pad. By going off the edge of panels or sections all the time, it is simply another area that you have to remember to wipe completely dry or it will leave a spot. Normally I am meticulous and border on "Monk" like behaviour and obsess about details. I can use most products in my sleep but this product is "off the charts" difficult. Virtually every section of the car has some spot that needs to be redone. You will have to start all over from scratch after you get the defect off. Even when correcting the first blemishes, you can be prone to having the same issue all over again. I have to rework some of the rework I've done. The bottom line is, I will find a product that is easier to apply and remove.

This is not real because I tasted in my car but the scratch it