Sea Dog Line - 3004.4272 Sea Dog 420488-1 Kill Switch with Lanyard
P**A
Great Value, Works Perfectly!
Bought two of these. One for my I/O and one for my 1966 9.5hp Johnson outboard. Can be wired either way for I/O or magneto on an outboard. Replaced the stop button on my old outboard with this lanyard kill switch. Much safer :)
J**M
I used it on my pwm on my lure 11.5
I wanted to have a kill switch on my pwm for trolling motor on my feelfree lure 11.5 .I tested it after I installed it . Works great . Hopefully it keeps working . Time will tell .
J**M
I am so glad I went with the universal
I have a 1970 Evinrude 18 HP Fastwin that was in need of a kill switch. The old one was rotted away and disconnected by a previous owner. After an extensive research online I was faced with buying the original for around $70.00 or getting a universal kill switch. I am so glad I went with the universal. First off donāt let the price fool you. Build quality is great and it feels like it will hold up. Install was easy. It fit in the factory hole like a glove, no modifications needed. I created a couple of connectors that would extend from the switch to the factory connection to interrupt the magnetos to stop the engine. There is 4 connectors, 2 labeled āMā and 2 labeled āIā. I connected mine both to the āMā due to having a magneto setup versus the ignition. There isnāt any instructions that come with but do a Google search and you will find some helpful diagrams. Both push and pulling the lanyard off will kill the engine. Overall I am extremely pleased with this!!! If you have an old OMC, Johnson or Evinrude this will work just fine for you.
C**T
This should be included in every Kayak motor!!!
Surprised that only one manufacturer offered this at 3X the cost of the motor! Any side mount motors be ware, anything above 30LBS which rotates 90 degrees will roll you over without side stabilizers. At least at the very high end they use a magnetic disconnect! Lots of videos on web ignore this basic safety fact! You need something tat clips to your PFD!Just clip the on/ off switch on the potentiometer and run it to a disconnect, clip the wire and use crimp on waterproof connectors, no soldering!!Cut on of theses add an e-stop (Man overboard switch)
A**L
Evidently... a direct OEM replacement
After checking with a number of marine supplies, and seeing prices all over the place, I checked out Amazon and found this switch, which looked nearly identical to the old switch on my 1996 Evinrude 8hp 2 cylinder outboard. My biggest concern was the mounting, and luckily, this switch fitted into the cast hole in the tiller nearly perfectly. The switch comes with a threaded neck and large nut, and evidently, there's a commercial standard for these kill switches that has maintained for at least 15 years. Electrically, it's a no-brainer to connect. Well, you do have to understand which side of the ignition system you're connecting to and whether your switch was "normally open" or "normally closed" when the engine was running. You have a choice of normally open or normally closed for a reason. The switch provides these two options depending on whether your motor shorts out the ignition (normally open when the switch isn't depressed), or is wired into the "energized side" of the coil, and depressing it will open the circuit (normally closed when the switch isn't depressed). If that's confusing, then find a neighbor who's a Ham Radio Operator, an electrical engineer, or a garage mechanic.One easy way to test your wiring is to seperate the two bare end wires that were connected to the old switch. Don't let the wires touch each other or anything. Try to start the engine. If it starts, then touch the two wires together. If the engine stops, you need to connect to the two "normally open contacts." If the engine didn't start with the wires apart, then twist them together, preferably with an electrical nut so they don't touch anything on the engine. Try starting the engine. If it does start, then you need to use the two connectors on the switch that are "normally closed."So the two best things about this switch are the price, and the fact that it, apparently, fits into most motors where you had a similar kill switch. Again, the size of the switch and the outside diameter of the mounting stalk must meet some industry commercial standard. Good for us!
I**O
Know how to wire this, or do some studying ahead of time.
This is the only kill switch I could find that would work for my purpose without a complicated relay. Most kill switches are Open when the kill switch is in, meaning that no electricity gets through -- the bridge is "open" so nothing gets across. On an electric motor, you obviously need a switch that is Closed when the kill switch is in, and opens the circuit to cut-off power when the kill switch is pulled out. This one allows you to choose between contacts that are Open or Closed when the key is in. Just be sure to test your circuit with the key in to make sure you are using the correct contacts. However, still be careful! This switch has an unrated amperage threshold. I would guess it is at most 10 amps. So, if you wire it directly to the battery you are most likely going to fry it with the current being drawn by a trolling motor. In my case it was wired in line with the on/off switch for a PWM motor controller. Alternatively, you could wire it to a simple relay, like one used in many automobiles that has the control circuitry on lower amps, and higher current on the other side of the relay which leads in from the battery and goes to the load of the motor.
T**J
Quality kill switch for magneto outboard.
I installed this in a small, home built Mahogany runabout with a 1957 Johnson outboard with magneto ignition. It is paralleled with the ignition/starter key switch, and works fine. The fork attached to the lanyard snaps in solid and doesn't show any signs of being bumped or knocked out. The lanyard is securely attached and the hardware is good quality. I have tested the operation, and the switch does kill the motor when the fork is pulled off. I have not needed it on the water yet!
K**B
This is the kill switch that can be wired for both open or closed operation
I wired this kill switch on the helm and it is a kill switch for a 60 horsepower Mercury outboard. This switch can be hooked up for either open or closed circuit wiring.
A**R
Works great good quality
Works great good quality
J**Z
Excelente producto
Muy sencillo en su instalación y se ve un producto de buena calidad
M**E
kill switch
excellent product
A**R
Good
I have had good results with this product and have purchased many of them
D**L
Satisfecho
Todo bien
Trustpilot
1 day ago
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