BOSS Audio Systems CE102 2 Channel Car Amplifier - 100 High Output, High/Low Level Inputs, High/Low Pass Crossover, Hook Up to Subwoofer for Bass

Use this in random with a Kicker line level adapter to add the factory sub to my car. The woofer isn’t rated for much more than the rating for a single channel on this amp, so i get ample power out of it for my use case. The low pass filter also works exceptionally well. It’s a bit larger than a bar of soap in size so it was very easy to install it in the same area the factory amp would have been located. It sounds good, runs cool, and does exactly what i want it to for $30.

Tiny, whimpy little amplifier. At 0 gain, it's capable of proving enough power to get approximately 1:1 volume from unpowered headunit output to weak headphones. Takes full gain for more stubborn headphones like my shooting muffs. With a little creativity, this amp could find some other uses, but it seems perfect for adding headphones to the car. Well, sort of. Audio quality thus far is a bit crummy when the car is actually running, so I may need to tinker with the grounding or add filtering. Compared to BOSS's other products, this one seems lacking the included stuff department. Would have liked RCA output capability in the box instead of having to buy it myself. (Screw terminal RCAs are awesome, btw) Mounting gear could be a little more diverse. I don't want lag screws sticking out of my plastic. Thank goodness for mighty putty. *edit* Nevermind. This amp has the longevity of a gnat. I thought my remote wire or ground was having an issue so I proceeded to buy a filter. Finally got the filter and after some tinkering that included the extreme of tapping remote to +12V, this thing is dead. That means it was dead in like two or three days.

Got this to replace an amp in an RV entertainment system. From the photos it looked similar to my original one that died. Sure enough it was almost identical in size and connections making it easy to install. It was less wattage than the original, so I was worried about volume, but it has enough power to be hear over a very loud air conditioner and sounds nice and clean. Very happy so far.

I had a factory sub for a 2011 Honda CRV and the OEM amp is very small. This is the only amp I could find that would fit in the available slot on the sub. This with a slight mod worked well. First off after trying 2 of these amps the high inputs do not work at all, they should be deleted from this amp since they are useless. The RCA's do work well though. Just be aware you will need a Input converter if using a factory deck. The PAC input converter works very well. Another thing about this amp when the power goes on or off there is a thump sound from the sub. Its not too bad but it is noticable and it was supposed to have a soft on and off so another unexpected issue. I also noticed if you do not use the remote on/off orange cable the amp senses the inputs and turn the amp on and off. I wish the timeout for this was longer, the delay is only 1 second or something so the amp can go on/off alot if a song has no bass for a few seconds which is annoying. If the delay was 5 seconds it would be much better for some songs and between songs. Most the time it is fine though. If you use the remote wire it stays on with the car even if the radio is off, which is not too bad but wastes power and heats the amp all the time. I am still deciding which way to use it. I wish the auto on/off was a little better but works well enough. Nice amp so far even at 2 ohms, will see how long it lasts. It was getting pretty hot but has not overheated yet on the first day. Update: So the amp stopped working today. It has been installed for 45 days and was working ok until today. The "soft" power on and off always popped on power cycle since day one, so not very soft. The amp would sometimes turn off mid song, not sure why and then come back on again. Today it was just dead, no sound and cold but the power led was lit. All connections are good, it just doesn't want to work anymore. Nice. The return policy is garbage. It will cost me the same to buy a new amp vs getting Boss to repair mine. Amp is pretty much disposible. Beware. Update: So the problem was only the fuse. I added a fuse holder so I could swap them easier in the future. We are back in business. I have updated my rating.

I hooked the amp up to a single BOSS 120 Watt 4 x 10" mounted in the blank center speaker hole in my 85' Grand Prix. I used the low level front channel from my after market radio to run into the amp. I'm happy with the mix the amp makes from the L/R channels and it puts out plenty of quality sound in the full frequency range. I have the sensitivity turned way down and I feel that there is more potential than my speaker can match right now. The amp size is perfect for squeezing in behind the dash for a factory look. It will get a little warm so give it some room to breathe. I couldn't be happier with the sound for the ultra low cost of the install.

For those who might be curious about what goes into these things, here are some answers. A single inductor is by the power supply input, along with the one discrete (bipolar) transistor that appears on the circuit board. It seems like a circuit intended to deal with voltage fluctuations, and maybe confer a degree of idiot-proofing, and I approve. Most of the other parts in evidence are the minimum needed to do about a third of what this amp's spec sheet claims. Aside from some small value mylars and a couple of ceramics, all of the capacitors are Taiwanese, aluminum electrolytics. At least 3/4 of the resistors appear to be carbon-based. Buffering is provided by a UTC4558 dual op amp chip. Amplification is provided by a 4-channel amp-on-a-chip, the $2.50 STA540SAN. At 12 volts, this chip is good for 4 channels x 9 watts @2 ohms, but can be bridged to provide 2 x 18 watts @4 ohms instead. That's exactly what we have here. If I were making this amp, I'd spend an extra couple of dollars to use higher quality resistors and capacitors, because they'd last longer and sound better. On the other hand, it's not much over $20, and I couldn't build one of them for that. Parts are a lot more expensive when you buy a few, than when you buy thousands at a time, and I'd probably get gouged for >$10 for the box alone. Yes, it's cheaply made, and inflates its wattage from 36 to 100. My "90 watt" Pyle amp produces 6-8 watts per stereo channel. Inflation of car audio specs is SO nearly universal, that doing 36% of what's claimed is, relatively speaking, not bad at all. If you use it in a car and are maintaining something close to the 13.8v maximum that most alternators can produce, you might hit 25 watts a channel. If you're driving a couple of subs with it, that will give you sound levels about 17 dB over the efficiency of your speakers, so if you bought efficient speakers, let's say 96 db/watt, you'd get about 113 dB. That's loud enough to damage your hearing pretty quickly, and is more than most buyers would ever want. Continuous exposure to over 90 dB is deemed harmful for hearing, and a pair of 98 dB/w speakers could do that on about a twentieth of a watt per channel. (Hey, if you bought 82 dB/watt speakers and need 7 watts to get to 90 dB, don't blame me... ) One thing I found in the data sheet for the STA540SAN, was mention of the idea that manufacturers could save themselves the cost of a part, plus circuit board real estate and insertion costs, by using a single DC-blocking capacitor for both of the stereo channels. They also mention, in vague terms, that it will harm stereo separation to do that. While I did see some pairs of caps on the board, none of them were very near the output stage, so I suspect that Boss may have done that with these amps. If you're using them for subs, you'll never know or care, but if you're using one for higher frequencies and get crosstalk, that might be why. It's common in budget amps. In the rare event that an output capacitor fails by becoming a short circuit, it can allow the DC power supply to flow directly through both channels of your speakers, which is likely to fry many drivers almost instantly. I'd have felt better if just that one cap was a solid type, rather than an aluminum oxide paste cheapie. But hey, did I tell you it was only about $20?

This is a great little home theatre or arcade sound system amplifier, easy to wire up , multiple sound controls to dial in the sound you want. There are also multiple inputs such as 3.5 mm aux cable, rca inputs, Bluetooth, sd card , and USB device. It's not super powerful but for the money it does the job.

This thing is back-feeding voltage through remote turn-on lead after shutdown. Preface: I purchased this amp to install in my truck to run a small center speaker for better sound stage (low wattage maybe 20 watts at most). This would have been a fine application for a good cheap little A/B amp. Took me couple days (in my spare time) to track down a mysterious symptom after install. Once in a while when I would turn the key off and exit the truck, my whole system would intermittently stay on. The head unit, and 3 other amps in my system would run for about 20 seconds after removing the key... then, they would begin to cycle on and off (sometimes rapidly) for minutes or hours... and the instrument cluster would chime at me as if the key was still in the ignition. I thought for a while I had a bad ignition switch... nope... After much trial and error, turns out this stupid amp is back-feeding voltage into the remote turn-on lead after shut down! I figured it out finally by manually unplugging this amp in the middle of one of its tantrums. I then verified with a meter. Sure enough, it is back-feeding enough power to actually keep itself and everything else attached to it alive! I deem this to be completely unacceptable. I'm returning to amazon for a refund immediately.