TriMark 601650 Door Handle, Black, 5-3/4" x 5-1/4"(WxH)

Door handle was very similar to the Trimark handle on my 2016 Thor Miramar 34.2 and my previous 2015 Thor ACE 29.3. The bolt on this one has been upgraded to steel from what looked like cast metal on the old handles.You might not tell the difference in the handles at first glance. The new version has two unused "ears" on the deadbolt's inside lever mechanism. These ears did not allow the handle to fit in my factory door opening. I removed the unused "ears" with a pair of dykes and a Dremmel tool. Once removed the handle fit well.Cautionary note: The handle has two spacer plates on the latch side that are held in place by two mounting screws and the two strike bolts. When removing the old lock and inserting the new lock these spacer plates can easily fall down inside the door frame. This happened to me, necessitating the removal of the door and shaking the plates out through the handle opening.The two strike bolts when installed as shipped were too short and hit the strike plate on the door jamb, causing the door to drag. The original locks had a washer on each bolt that spaced it far enough to allow the door to close with out dragging. I used one of the washers on the new lock and it worked well. I lost one of the old washers. Theses washers need to have the correct hole diameter to catch the shoulder on the strike bolts in order to shim them out. I was able to find a washer that fit in my junk box so they are not too exotic.Took me about 2 hours to do. Would have been 1 hour if I had not dropped plates down inside the door.

* The PREVIOUS model (60-650) of this Trimark latch had the cast POT METAL plunger/latch that often breaks, usually at the wrong time, stranding travelers.* This is the Trimark latch with the STEEL latch/plunger (060-1650) that's SUPPOSED to be stronger.* See photo of stack of earth magnets sticking to the STEEL latch.* An install mod - see photos: As other reviewers have stated, I too had to cut off two of the ears/tabs on the dead bolt's operating "wheel" as they interfered with the door frame making the dead bolt inoperable. The previous model did not have these ears/tabs.* A Dremel tool with -cut off wheel- made quick work to slice off the two ears/tabs.* Then, the entrance door lock assembly went right into place.* In my case I did not need to change out the latch plate.* Time will tell if the STEEL plunger will outlast the POT METAL plunger/latch.* Be aware that another supplier -RV Design- designates this Trimark product with their own number: T507.* SHAME on Trimark for producing literally thousands of these with the weak pot metal latch over many years.>> A COMPLAINT to TRIMARK resulted in them offering me another entry door lock for $20 MORE than Amazon PLUS shipping: will their generosity never end? AMAZON to the rescue once again. <<* This replacement was on a 2016 class C Coachmen Freelander Micro (20CB) 24' motorhome.* We have cab doors to exit/enter the RV. Not so with class A's and trailers where you risk getting locked in or out. Oops!

This was our Perfect Replacement for a previous model Trimark handle that looked identical, just been updated. Hopefully the latch itself is stronger, the back end of the latch actually broke off, metal failed on the old one. Hopefully this one's better built. But the good news is we got expedited shipping, we were able to install it in 21 minutes including testing the locks, maybe we got lucky based on some other reviews but this was perfect for us for our LTV Unity motor coach. Now we can get in and out of our coach again normally rather than squeezing through the driver door which is up against a wall of shrubbery!

Because of a slight design change from the original lock a slight modification had to be made to the door hole so dead bolt would operate properly. Other than that once installed it works perfectly. Old lock was on a 2004 Damon Day Break motorhome. Satisfied with my purchase.

Although listed as a direct replacement this item is slightly wider and I had to trim the door opening to get a proper fit.

First, thank you "Camping Connection" for a speedy shipment. If you are replacing the old type with this one, please note: The striker (new one comes with it) plate either has to replace the original because the new lock's guide screws have a larger diameter and won't fit the old striker plate. OR, you can just take the original locks guide screws out of the old lock and replace them in this new one. In my Challenger 37GT I would have had to cut the door frame to remove and replace the striker plates. Switching the screws was a no brainer. Just remember to use some "lock tight" to keep the screws tight in the lock. The deadbolt's lock cylinder has two, ear like tabs, protruding about 3/8" at one end of the vertical side of the lock. In my case, the lock fit so tight in the door cut out that locking and unlocking the deadbolt cause those tabs to hit the door pocket's side, preventing the deadbolt from going in and out. Solution is to cut/drill out a space in the door pocket for that movement or simply grind off the two metal tabs. They serve no function in the operation of the lock and it was really easy to grind the tabs instead of cutting into the door pocket. It took all of about an hour to figure this out and accomplish the task. I'm a happy camper again.