NOVUS 7030 | Fine Scratch Remover #2 | 8 Ounce Bottle

Works on scratched CD’s really well. CD’s that would not play now are able to play perfectly.

This is my first review ever. I had to. This product literally blew it away. I have music album that is a 6-CD set, so to replace a scratched one I would have to buy the whole set. Well, I accidentally dumped them off the shelf the other day and CD #2 fell out and scraped against another jewel case. It caused the CD to malfunction and skip and sputter right out of the gates when I stuck it in the CD player.Well, I thought I’d give this stuff a try. I got a micro-fiber rag, shook the bottle, dabbed a drop on the scratched area, rubbed it fairly vigorously for about 15 seconds, noticed it was dry, and then buffed just enough to get the residue off.Perfection!! I couldn’t believe it. The scratch was completely gone and the disc played perfectly. Say what you want about this product. It just saved me 40-80 dollars plus to replace the CD set. Awesome!!

Doesn’t completely remove scratches. However, greatly improved

I tried it on deep scratches (nothing)..fair to say that the bottle syas No.2 FINE SCRATCH REMOVER.So I decided to test it on a bunch of FINE SCRATCHES and the results : IT DOES NOTHING, it does not remove anything at all, you are better off with shine shoe polish than with this crap, NOT RECOMMENDED and do not waste you money on this

Great polish for fine scratches. I have used it on headlight covers (typically poly-carbonate), ABS, Clear PVC and it has done well on all of them. The depth of your scratches is what determines how course a polish you use. I start with a finer polish and if it doesn’t do the job then use a courser polish. Novus has a number 3 (courser polish). You always have to use the finer polish after the courser polish so you have to use the 2 polish again, but it is an easier means of telling which will work.I would be hesitant to use this on a touch screen as there can be invisible circuitry (indium tin oxide) very close to the surface and what the material is. Unless you know and understand the tech then usually best not to mess with it. Heating trinitrotoluene on the stove would be bad if you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s TNT.It does seem to leave some coating on the surface but it is NOT like many of the ‘wipe on fill type’ product to improve clarity that don’t last.. If you don’t have to rub it (or shake the bottle) then it isn’t really a polish. And while it might take a bit longer than the chemical melting wipe on type, you have much more control and less chance of messing up the surface. At worst (unless you go too fast and melt the plastic) you will end up with a clear depression in the material.I would like it to last a little longer before drying but in the hot Texas sun everything probably drys faster. After talking with the manufacturer they say that water can be used to wet the surface as long as you don’t dilute the polishing compound.This drill brush worked wellhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VIGPG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Although these might work better as they don’t expose the polish to air as much and so it might last longer as liquid. I am polishing the inside of cylinders so needed something round instead of disk. For just headlights I would try these.https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Drill-Polishing-Inch-Buffing/dp/B076ZJMHB1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537911177&sr=8-3&keywords=foam+polishing+pad+for+drill

I think if you have a power polisher etc. this might be the answer. But trying to revive a scratched windshield manually is a challenge. I do use their product in the blue and white spray bottle to polish my motorcycle windshield and that stuff works great. Bugs and debris slide right off with just a damp cloth.

My tabletop looks fantastic!!!

I've been using this stuff for 20 years for restoration of vintage parts and antiques. Hard plastics, Lexan, plexi-glass, etc. will scratch, dull, yellow, weathered for the elements and sun, and cloud over the years. Plastic looks old, abused, worn out and ugly, and many times the item it covers or is an accessory for may still be in great shape. It ruins the total appearance. Novus can completely restore to a new look. If you want to do it right, you'll need to have all three cleaners. Always start with Novus #1, proceed to #2, them #3, ONLY if the first doesn't give your the best desired results. The reason is that there is a slight increase of the content of compound with each step. Even so if your plastic is scratched badly enough to need #3, it will still come out looking nearly new and all but gouged scratches will be removed and yellowing will virtually disappear, there will just be a very slight decrease in clarity at each increase of product number... and it is SLIGHT, not nearly noticeable enough to offset the positive result... but for the best, crystal clear clarity, you are much better off staring with #1 and working up if necessary. I find #2 to be the most needed and most practical for most situations. #3 is needed when damage from scratching and yellowing is severe... ...you will probably be too stunned by the result to notice a very slight loss of clarity. #3 is for heaviest damage... and if truly heavy enough, you will need more than one application and plenty of elbow grease... but, the result is still so good with #3, you will be trading years of abuse, heavy scratching, scouring, yellowing, and aging.. ...for a smooth, clear result with just a very small bit of a haze... a truly unusable, abused, scratched up, ugly mess, restored to an overall new looking item. From old car / truck headlight covers.... to old record turntable covers that were scratched, weathered, and yellowed from age or tobacco... and all hard plastic parts in general... I've been in the restoration business for over 40 years.... you can try other cleaners and compounds, nothing gets the results that Novus provides...nothing.