MiuzeiRaspberry Pi 3 B+ Case with Fan Cooling Pi 3B Case with 3 Pcs Heat-Sinks 5V 3A Power Supply for Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) 3B (No Raspberry Pi Board)

Overview: Great little case once you get it built (difficult). It is composed of several layers that are easy to get out of order and flip over, so take your time. I love the power supply with on/off switch and the blue heatsinks.Pros:- Looks amazing- Comes with heatsinks and fan- Power supply has on/off toggle switch (see pic)Cons:- Putting it together- Confusing connection of fan (see pics for guidance)To Get Started:Look at instruction sheet carefully. It's mostly just pictures so I'll try to describe the process a little here.Install the heatsinks on the Pi Motherboard.Unscrew the corners of the case. Once you do this, I highly recommend flipping it upside-down and working from the bottom layer up.Remove the bottom plastic protective layer (it will go from opaque to clear) and follow the pictures very carefully. Take your time working layer by layer.Everything fits together very snugly, but you shouldn't have to force it. If you get stuck, carefully match the piece and orientation and try again.My pictures show my new 3b+ installed in this case and everything fits perfect.Once you get to the top layer, connect the fan red pin to #1 and the black pin to #6 to have it run at the lower 3V speed. See my Pi picture for this set up.You can connect the red pin to #2 if your want a faster 5V speed but u like the quieter 3V setting.I've attached a pin diagram to help understand this as well. Thanks to the Engineering Project... I initially wired mine backward and this pic was helpful.Assembled correctly, the fan just misses the main heatsink and I have no issues with clearance. Cool and quiet.Screw in one corner at a time and add the silicone pads at the bottom and you are done.I've attached pictures of this case with my Pi 3b+ from every side for reference and to show that everything does indeed fit nicely. I've paired my Pi with a 64gb Samsung Evo card.Bottom line: This case is very stylish and compact. There are openings for all inputs. The power supply has a definite on/off click. Be very careful with assembly and give yourself about 20-30 minutes so not to rush. It's easy to flip a piece and they will break if you force them. Getting the fan plugged in and situated took me a few tries. In the end, I'm very happy with my purchase.Hope this was helpful!

I've had this Raspberry Pi 3 B+ for about 2 years now but haven't used it much as I didn't have a safe way to operate it in a useful application. Overall it gives excellent protection to the Pi. Basically the equivalent of having your computer motherboard in a PC case as opposed to running it open on your desk. The power supply is exactly as pictured and seems to be decent build quality. Includes a little fan to promote air movement through the included heatsinks. You can power your fan either on the 5V rail for full speed or the 3.3V rail for a slower speed. I went with the slower speed since I'm not pushing this Pi to its limits and it doesn't add hardly any noise. The room has to be completely dead silent to hear it.PROS- Sturdy- Acrylic layer concept is clever and someone entertaining to assemble.- Price is reasonable- Solid Power supply with a switch, saving your USB ports from constant plugging- SD Card accessible- All the ports have large "wells" so large grip connectors will almost always fit. The side with USB-C, HDMI and 3.5mm is recessed in and is about 11.75mm tall with the HDMI port just about dead center of those. I don't think I've ever owned an HDMI cable with a connector shield too big for that.- GPIO pins are accessible from the top AND the side for a ribbon cable.- Camera and TFT display connectors are accessible with slits.- USB and Ethernet ports are FLUSH with the edge, so overly large USB devices *ahem*CellularDongles*ahem* will fit just fine.- Mounting slots so this could be hung on a wall (caution - short hazard if not careful)CONS- Tools required for assembly: #2 Phillips and a 5.5mm Hex (or needle nose plyers) to get a snug fit. The 77-piece HyperTough Repair Kit from Walmart (in a green case) has both of these bits.- Not compatible with Pi-hats, unless you can DIY an adaptation to this case somehow. I don't own any to try but the most common one I think is the PoE hat and I know that won't fit on this case. Not sure if another case in the same design is made for one or not.- No grille or screen for the fan. Not a safety issue per se but it might get quite dusty. If I need a screen I'll cut out a small piece of window screen and sandwich it between the top layer and the fan.Overall I love this case and I have bookmarked it for future re-purchase if I find myself with a few more Pis to protect.Although the instructions are good, I have some tips and tricks for assembly, which you might want to skip the rest of the review if you are in it for the "puzzle" enjoyment factor of it. As you can tell from the listing photos the case is really nothing more than acrylic layers bolted together.1. My kit came "preassembled" however you have to take it apart completely to get the Pi into it. Take the four screws and nuts off, and set them aside. Lay the pieces in order on your desk so you can maintain an idea of how it assembles. Peel the films off the acrylics.2. Install the fan on the top most layer, and set it aside. Be careful and pay attention to which side you mount the fan on. The picture in the instructions, Figure B, is accurate so use that as a reference to figure out that you're holding the acrylic sheet properly. The fan is supposed to go INSIDE the case with the Pi, and the fan's label faces inward toward the Pi, away from the acrylic sheet you are mounting it on. This way the air is forced into the Pi and will pass through the heat sinks and exit via the other openings of the case. Trying to pull air out might be less efficient.3. I used a 5.5mm socket *FINGER TIGHT* to tighten nuts with a #2 Phillips screwdriver in one hand and the 5.5mm socket in the other hand. Finger Tight as I'm sure any amount of real torque can crack the acrylic.4. Install the heat sinks but only install the ones on the top for now.5. This kit has slots to hang it on the wall. The slots are 2 plus-shaped cutouts on the bottom layer. Keep in mind there is NO electrical protection between these slots and the Pi itself, so if you intend to mount it, consider electrical tape or something on the bottom of the Pi in this area to prevent a short.6. When building up the layers, take two of the long bolts and send them up through the bottom side of the first layer, and use them as alignment pegs as you add the first 3 layers, the Pi, and the 6 top layers. Then add the nuts but leave them mostly loose until you can get the last 2 bolts sent up through the same way. As you can see in my photo the bolts on mine go up from the bottom with nuts on top because of this reason. It's opposite than how it's "supposed to be", per the photos and instructions, but I don't see a problem here. You could instead send the second two bolts down the proper way, then reverse the first two. Tighten the bolts the same way as in note 3 above FINGER TIGHT.7. Finally install the bottom heatsink. You'll see why we waited. You won't have to "carefully" get the heatsink exact on the chip and have to wonder if it'll fit through that hole during case assembly. Put the rubber feet on the bottom and you're good to go!

Love this case! It seems difficult to assemble at first, but as long as you keep all of the pieces in the correct order as you assemble, it’s actually very straightforward. If you let all the pieces get mixed up, it could be quite tedious.It feels high quality and looks clean and neat, the three heatsinks are a nice touch with the 30mm fan as well! Even on high mode, it is not very noisy and I can feel the air being dispelled so I have no doubt about the ability to cool the board. This feels much safer than the board just laying around of course and the thickness feels very secure. I’m a big fan of this thing, especially for the price!