Polymaker PolyLite Dark Grey 3D Printer PETG Filament 1.75mm 1kg, Legacy PETG Formula, Reliable Everyday Filament, Strong Layer Bonding, Compatible with Most 3D Printers

I am always skeptical when buying filament. I research watch vids etc. I want the best bang for the buck, but I dont want to have issues printing either. Polymaker has always been a filament ive wanted to try, Its more expensive than others, but I gave it a shot. Since the initial purchase, I have bought 4 more rolls.Color Consistency is on Point, having what I need in stock, also a big plus.Didn't notice any stringing in my prints, Easy to use,Print Profiles readily available. I use a Bambu and Sovol Printer.The green is a tiny bit shinier than the BL brand, but a lot less than the Tinmorry. BL is constantly out of stock and is the reason why I went with Poly and their quality is the reason i will continue to use them.Great Product, Great Quality, I know you're looking at price too, bite the bullet take a spool for a spin.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!

I recently tried Creality PETG and it was too moist, nothing but problems, even after drying. After doing a few hours of research I decided to give this filament a try since it had many recent positive reviews. I did a heat tower before I dried it for a few hours, there were a few pops initially but the print had no defects.I am running this way faster and hotter than recommended on the label since I'm using a Creality K1, this filament has no issues keeping up. Has a little bit of fine hair stringing, but I may need to play with the settings a tad bit.

A little bit of background: I've used Polymaker's PETG before, in translucent clear, and that's been a fantastic filament printing on my Ender 3 Pro with direct drive, E3D Revo with a .8mm nozzle and even on a textured PEI bed, no problems with that at 35mm/s - 55mm/s. Prints are strong, mostly warp free and look good aesthetically.For reference, the pictured prints were attempted on my Voron V0.2 with an E3D Revo with a .6mm nozzle, albeit quite a bit faster at around 100mm/s, which while faster than the recommended print speed on the spool, is no problem for other brands of PETG and PLA, those prints come out clean and well defined.Which is why it's baffling that the purple PolyLite PETG is so, just, bad at sticking to itself. It warps at the edges almost instantly, overhangs are completely hopeless, bridging is fine only if there's a single layer, any more than one layer of bridging and it'll shift the other lines of filament and cause even more problems. What looks like overheating layers seems to either be what it is, or a large lack of filament adhesion to itself in general.I tried to slow down the prints, down to about 60-70mm/s, but even then, the filament struggled to adhere to other lines and layers below past a certain point, telling me at least that there seemed to be an odd heat creep issue, which was more apparent in the temp tower, with sagging overhangs and bridges getting worse as the nozzle was getting cooler.Is it being printed too quickly? I'm not too sure, but there's not really any reason to pick this at all for modern printers that can print decently quickly if that's the issue. Pick any other PETG, even other Polymaker PETGs, especially the clear, unless you really need this color for some reason.

I bought a few different brands because BL ran out of the color I was using, with no restock in site. Poly's color consistency and quality are amazing this PETG ran great. So much so, that they are my new favorite supplier of PETG.