K1 MAX 3D Printer Upgrade with 600mm/s Printing Speed 300°C High-Temperature Nozzle Direct Extruder Hands-Free Auto Leveling Dual Z Axes Stable Cube Frame 11.81x11.81x11.81inch

For any people who were/are not happy with the resin printing experience: This printer really went above and beyond my expectations of not only a low cost printer but an FDM printer in general. I got into the printing world by purchasing a resin printer that Amazon had on sale. I thought I would really enjoy the hobby but the extensive pre and post processing of those prints as well as handling toxic chemical turned me off completely. After a month I figured printing wasn't for me, but I started looking into FDM printers(which this is one, filament based instead of resin) and decided to on a whim buy a low cost but well liked printer. WHAT A DECISION! This printer completely opened my eyes to what I thought 3D printing would be like. It's so much fun! the resin printer's build plate was way smaller and in general more ideal for miniature models, whereas this printer (Ender 5) has a huge build plate and can print just about anything to great results. So if you are turned off my resin printers and you're not sure if printing is for you , I suggest returning your resin printer and giving FDM a shot because it's a whole different experience. Being able to simply pull something(maybe pry is a better word) from your build plate immediately after it's finished and admire it is really still amazing each time I do it. Ender5 : The setup on this model wasn't bad at all, there's a few videos online you could probably search for to give you an idea of what to expect, but out of the box the directions do a pretty good job of guiding you through it. I would definitely recommend checking out a video because you are almost guaranteed to have to adjust something structural on this machine right out of the box. It's nothing major and doesn't require any technical skills but if you aren't looking for it you could very well slam your machine together incorrectly and have problems down the road you can't diagnose because you started with a bad structure. For me the top rail box would lay flush on the unit. If I didn't know to look out for possible adjustments then I very well may have just muscled down the top screws and call it a day, but I knew to check all my connections because all the reviews and videos told me to. I saw that a mount in one corner was tightened down from the factory crooked and caused the top piece to be uneven. So I loosened the necessary mounts, leveled it properly, and then tightened. The top mounted flush as it should and that was that. It was a minor inconvenience but knowing to look for these things is invaluable. Aside from that the build went very quickly and I was printing immediately. Printing: I adjusted the bed to what I thought was level and began printing. I never bothered with the CReality prints and started with some facemask ear savers. I noticed no matter how much I adjusted the bed it never quite felt level. After some prints I accidentally broke my Bowden Tube so I had to order a new, and decided to upgrade. I bought a Capricorn Bowden tube, All-Metal Extruder, and also got the Creality Glass bed. Those three upgrades turned my stringy few first prints and turned them into something I could be proud of. After installing the glass bed I realized my initial build plate was warped, which made proper leveling impossible but the glass bed cleared that up. I have to use a glue stick now (just cheap purple Staples glue stick)and haven't had any adhesion issues since starting that. Printed Bed struts to help with keeping the bed from moving while printing and it made a world of difference. This printer really prints with amazing quality and detail. After the few upgrades I made I am more than happy about this purchase and would recommend this printer to anyone looking to get into the world of FDM printing. Summary: Awesome printer for the price. Recommend upgrading to Glass Bed, Capricorn Bowden Tube, and Metal Extruder.

= What I Wanted As I am new to 3D printing, I wanted something that: - Easy to setup and get going on - Sufficiently capable to avoid quickly "outgrowing" it - Affordable (<$300) = Why I Choose the Ender 3 Pro I was torn between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro. I settled on the Pro, as I figured that the Pro represented the best and most refined version out-of-box. The Ender 3 is a tried and true model with it's strengths and weakness well known. There are numerous howtos available on how to address the various short comings of the Ender 3. However, several of the enhancements offered by the Ender 3 Pro are either more difficult or cost - approaching or exceeding the cost differential between the 3 and 3 Pro. For example, the upgraded (sturdier) Y-axis base is more difficult to do on your own and requires significant disassembly and reassembly. The upgraded PSU is nearly the cost difference alone and results in an unused item in your drawer that you paid for. = Out of the Box Experience The printer was easy to assemble and worked well without any modifications. It is critically important to get the bed "level" - not as in bubble level but as in consistent height from the extruder nozzle (I used the paper method). It is also important to make sure that the wheel/track assembles are straight and true with proper tightness. I found several helpful guide videos online for this specific model that do a good job of walking you through it. My device came with the latest FW at the time of writing (1.1.6.2), so I have no experience in FW flashing yet. I do plan on setting up an OctoPi/OctoPrint solution, but for now the including SDcard and adapter has worked fine. I've printed with both PLA and PETG and both come out surprisingly well in my opinion. I've been using the latest version of Ultimaker Cura at the time of writing (4.5.0) for slicing STL files. = Notes on Usage A note on print times. I have no experience from which to base my expectations on print times however, you do need to be patient as many prints can take 5, 10, 15+ *hours*. I haven't tinkered around much with the print settings to see how much of a reduction in time I can achieve and at what quality tradeoffs. Nor have I experimented much to see how print quality and time stacks up when printing multiple parts simultaneously versus multiple prints of singular parts. You should monitor your prints - initially to make sure it lays down a good first layer that adheres well and then periodically check on it to make sure it doesn't go awry. Also, make sure you have enough filament to finish the print and that you plan for the duration. Things like - Are you comfortable with it printing overnight or while you are away? - Will the printer be free from vibrations/bumps/drafts in it's location (e.g. dining room table) from foot traffic, AC vents, etc for the duration of the print? = Final Thoughts Overall, I've been very happy with this purchase and foresee a long service given it's performance, upgradability, and available of spares in case of part failure.

I did get a few nice prints. And I look forward to 3d printing in the future. It just won't be with this unreliable piece of junk. My first issue was that the hot end would regularly clog and kill my prints. I am printing PETG filament at 235c and 70c for the bed. I have tried adjusting the hot end temp with no discernable improvement. Then when that wasn't a problem, the prints would often come unstuck halfway through the job and I would come back to see a pile of spaghetti on my table. So even though I level the bed, and clear the hot end before every print, it didn't seem to matter. So I started using glue stick to help the prints stick, but then I come back to a high pitch alarm indicating thermal runaway protection has been triggered. While I am happy it has this protection, because who wants to burn down their shop, it still results in a failed print. I can't believe this machine is even available for purchase in the US. It has given me extreme highs and lows for a little over a week now, and I have only one recourse now. Return it and put my money towards a legitimate 3d printer. I did a lot of research before buying this. You will see thousands of videos on YouTube showing how popular it is. I thought it was a great value. I was duped. Now I think that those videos were hired by the company marketeers to create positive PR. If you want to get a skeleton 3d printer, and replace a bunch of components because you like to tinker or are into the hobby of printer maintenance, rather than 3d printing and modeling, you might buy this. But if you want a useful tool, I cannot recommend a Creality 3 Pro. Save yourself the AGONY, and a few dollars, so you can afford a printer that is ready for public consumption. So sad. Bryan

Fiyatına göre başarılı buldum. Cihazın alt kısmı montaj yapılmış diğer yerlerin montajı size bırakılmış... Cihazın içinden çıkan usb de kod dönüstürücü bir program, demo yazdırma figürleri ve montaj videosu var. Videoyu izleyerek veya tıpkı lego inşaa eder gibi 12 kareden oluşan katoloğundanda kolayca montajı yapılabilir. Kalibrasyonu çok kolay oldu bir not kağıdı yardımıyla yapılabilir. Kutunun içinden montaj ve yazdırma ile ilgili her aparat çıkıyor, hatta deneme yazdırması için bir miktar filament bile var. Tavsiyem en küçük obje olan kediyi yazdırmanız ( %100 hızda 6 saat sürdü). Diğer objeler baya büyük. Aracı firma Ankara da, baya ilgili ve yardıma açık. Alırken korkmuştum ama sorunsuz bir alışveriş oldu. Başlangıç seviyesi için harika bir cihaz hatta pro cihazlara daha yakın diyebilirim...

Máquina sensacional! Totalmente automatizada. Qualidade absurda (robustez tremenda). Super recomendo!

Impressora nota 10, já fiz muita peça para o meu uso próprio e agora estou focando em fazer peças para vender,.

Impressora muito boa, só demora para calibrar e configurar, mas é bem capaz depois de acertar tudo.

Equipamento excelente para iniciantes e pessoas com médio conhecimentos em impressão 3D