GIANTARM TPU Filament, 95A TPU Filament 1.75mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03, Flexible Soft 3D Printer Filament 1kg Spool(2.2 lbs), Vacuum Packaging (Clear)

I printed these with the Bambu X1C, with food dehydrator for about 128 F for 24h. A temp tower led to 220 to print. After the temp test, did flow dynamic and flow rate calibrations. It was printed from a filament dehydrator set at 55, though often i forgot to turn it back on.This was my second project with TPU, so I'm not too familiar, though I did read up on basic.I printed TPU Lattice Structure, Gyroid pad, tpu infinity cubes, and croc shoes. You can find these files on makerworld.The TPU infinity cubes was printed on JUUPINE's PEY plate. The rest were printed on Bambu Textured plate.I had no major issues with these print, as they had good adhesion.The blue is a nice pretty colors.I did have stringing issues, but that is expected with TPU, and If I had more experienced, I could have fine tuned it more.The Lattice Structure went perfect, but was string, most went away after using hairdryer. It was a bit difficult to remove form plate with the brim. I should have tested without brim.Gyroid pad came out perfect.Infinity cube had rough corners, which lead me to investigate latter.Printing the croc shoes, it went mostly fine, with expected stringing. it did have rough spots as you can see. It not good as actual crocs which feels a bit softer. the side hole was a bit of annoyance clean out though.I decided to investigate the infinity cube, wondering if it was the infinity file. I tried all 3 infinity cube files, and notice common issues where the edges were very rough. I realized this is due to not doing a retraction test. The default Bambu TPU retraction is 0.4 mm. I ended up using 0.7 mm with some improvement, which you can see in that image with 2 infinity cubes [1 being 0.4 mm and 2 being 0.7 mm], with some improvements.Remember to do ALL your basic filament calibrations. Retraction test would have made my prints way better.I'm not sure about print speed, as was told it is recommended to slow it down for TPU, but I'm not sure if that made a difference.I would recommend GIANTARM TPU, it is ease to use, fun to play with. The blue Color is very pretty. REMEMBER TO DO RETRACTION CALIBRATION.remember heat gun / hair dryer would help for cleaning up most stringing.

Also enjoying Giantarm filaments and this is no exception. I use a lot of petg and some can be brittle or the color can be weak. This one has some flex which is great for utility prints.

This is the first time I've ever used TPU and I was a bit concerned that I was going to have issues with it, but it wasn't as worrisome as I thought and I'm fairly certain this filament is part of the reason why.For reference I'm printing on a Qidi imate-S with a .6 mm nozzle on a 60 degree heated glass bed with an enclosure, top off but sides closed up.I started out with a phone case trying the settings used in the listing, and while it printed "okay" it wasn't fabulous. So I tried another one with settings that I found in a Qidi user group. Again, "okay" but not great. So I scrapped the settings and set them to the default TPU setting in the slicer and tried a simpler print - a snowflake ornament.It came out PERFECT. So nice; no stringing no warping. Just beautiful. So I thought, back to the a phone case. The third attempt was way better than the first two. Still not without some flaws, but usable for sure. Bridging the button holes with supports was a bit rough, the sides turned out good, the bottom speaker and cable holes weren't as nice, but they pass muster. Still have some dialing in to do obviously, but considering I went from meh to really good in a day with a tricky filament the first time using it, I give this filament an A+.The adhesion was really good on the smaller print, and while the phone case didn't come up it did seem to have some marring on the first layer that suggest that it didn't fully stick in all places. So you may need additional adhesive or play with your bed temps when using this.I've heard that TPU is very hygroscopic we've had it out for over 27 hours on the printer and noticed only very slight stringing by the end of that time. Our house is really dry though and not humid, so I imagine that others may see the moisture absorption sooner than that.I highly recommend GIANTARM TPU filament for anyone looking to explore the versatile world of flexible 3D printing. It's definitely a great TPU for beginners to start with as it didn't frustrate too much to try and get the settings dialed in and we did get usable prints within the first day of working with it.

The filament is great, I’m getting flawless prints after drying it, but it’s not as red as shown in the product’s picture. It looks more orange than red, and it’s pretty transparent too, you would never get such a flexible print with this thick of a color.

This is my first time trying TPU, so I set my speeds low and tested a few different prints. Everything came out great and squishing the animals I printed is fun. I also printed a couple soda can lids which will really come in handy. I'm excited to print a lot more usefull and fun things like cable ties, and some different balls I've seen file for. I will say the color is a little more pink than shown in the images, but my photo looks even more pink because of the lighting bouncing off the coke can.

Alright—printing TPU is not like printing PLA. It squishes, it stretches, and it’ll jam a Bowden setup if you breathe wrong. But once you’ve got it dialed in? This filament is a beast. The 95A shore hardness gives you a perfect balance: still bendy and compressible, but rigid enough to hold form. Think tire tread feel, not gummy worm.I ran a full spool of this in a direct drive Ender 3 (with a dual gear extruder + Capricorn tube), and got consistently clean prints at 215°C hotend / 60°C bed. Slightly slower print speeds (20–30mm/s) gave best results. It adheres well to PEI and glass alike, and zero warping on medium-sized prints.