AC Digital Meter, DROK Current Voltage Amperage Power Energy Frequency Factor Multimeter AC 80-260V 100A LCD Digital Display Voltmeter Ammeter 220V 110V Monitor Detector with Current Transformer CT

I connected this to the outlet our sauna is plugged into so I could track the cost of using it.It reports 0W when nothing is plugged in, 3.5W when plugged in but not turned on, 12.3W when the LED lights are on... 1990W when the heating elements are on. All these values are very much in line with what is expected. The "Energy" (Accumulated Watt hours) also appears to be accurate. Moreover the Energy reading DOES withstand brief power outages. I've not tested it over an extended outage period but assume it is in non-volatile memory since it withstands any outage at all.It turns out to be quite handy and I'm now thinking of putting it in a box with a plug and outlet so I can plug it in anywhere and measure other high usage items. I just need to figure out how to safely put more than one plug style and outlet on it so I can measure 220 as well as 120 devices.

After reading some reviews of this type of meter I knew I needed to test it against other instruments for accuracy. Imagine my surprise when it was VERY close to the readings I got with a Fluke 189 and a Kill-A-Watt meter. Voltages were dead on. The Kill-a-watt and the Fluke read down to tenths and hundredths. but all rounded to the reading on this meter. Frequency was off by 1 Hz. Fluke read 60.02, kill-a-watt read 59.9. This meter read 61 (62 initially). Still very close.Amps and Watts match almost exactly between this and the kill-a-watt. Within tenths. Power factor on the Kill-A-Watt reads 0.98 while this meter reads 1.00 using a 60W bulb. Mostly resistive (maybe with a slight inductive component). Using a box fan, both read 0.97. Over all I'm very satisfied with the accuracy of this meter. The mounting of the current transformer seems very immune to surrounding factors. The neutral wire in my test set-up had no effect on the readings whether it was held at a distance or right up next to the CT on the line wire. I also experimented with the CT wire length. I added 15ft of wire between the CT and the meter. It had no effect on the readings.

So far I have been using this with good results on a 220V system. I say system because somehow my father who is an electrician was able to monitor the whole sub panel rather than the receptacle which was its original intention.The whole sub panel is 60 amps and I am sure this works for that after reading reviews as it can read as high as 100 amps. Again very happy this worked out. My only con was I wish there was a pre-made box to install it in. I had to cut the screw section of a box from home depot and cut the side to make it work, but would be nice if there was a box to put it in.

I saw reviews in which buyers complained that some of these meters are very inaccurate. Perhaps the manufacturer does inadequate quality control. I tested the unit that I received against Fluke meters and it was very accurate (sorry that I don't have any numbers). I installed it on my geothermal heat-pump. The kW and Power Factor displays are particularly useful. I compared the difference in heat between the source and load side of the heat-pump and it matched the kW display to within a few percent. I'm using it now to track the performance of the heat-pump. For the cost of the unit, it is a winner.

I hesitate to buy cheep stuff especially from China because the quality is not always there. I was happily amazed with this little meter. It has been performing great. I tested it for 24 hours on my home service before installation on the boat and the Freq meter reads very accurate which isn't always the case with these Chinese cheep power meters. After the test went well I cut the hole in the boats power panel and installed it and tested it on the Onan MDKD 8.0kW Diesel Genset and it honestly works awesome! I installed it in such away so that then I switch the boat from Ships Power to Land Power this meter will also tell me the quality of the dock service because to my experience marina's power isn't always that great, especially summertime in Florida when everyone is running there 1 - 4 air-conditioners.

I had an external transfer switch installed for a gas powered AC generator to be used when power was lost. Being the generator was capable of 240 VAC, 30 amps, I required two multimeters - one for each 120 VAC leg. The DORK meters were the perfect fit. In the system test, the DROK meters gave nearly identical readings as the Fluke multimeter used by the electrician. I am very pleased with the DROK meters. I would recommend and re-purchase the meter. Five stars for initial installation and testing. (5/23/2020).

Installed for monitoring EV charger level 2, has been working flawlessly for more than a year.Highly recommended.

It has already been noted that a 120Volt---neutral----120Volt two wire CT configuration would not show the total but the difference of the two conductors current. SO, the CT is polarity detectionThus, placing the two -120 volt conductors into the CT crossing them (one from the bottom, one from the top) would measure the total current on the two current carrying conductors...If the voltage and current is 180' from each other, a total current detection configuration should be displayed