The Original EZ GENERATOR SWITCH - Patented, UL/CSA Approved Manual Transfer Switch - Made in the USA

January of 2023. Still the best U.L. approved one circuit solution out there. You will see a copy-cat knock-off for around $15 less. DO NOT BUY IT. It is NOT a safe product and has no certifications. The listing does not claim to be UL listed but inquiries to the seller show no proof of it. If you read the description of the knock-off they even copy the listing almost word for word. It is not worth placing your safety at risk. 11/10/2020 $5 cheaper if you buy directly from seller and it is shipped by them regardless of where you purchase it. 11/05/2020 update. I received a reply back on my email describing my issue that I resolved on my own. This is a legit seller. They will assist if your questions are legit and not way out there (you best hire an electrician.) No one wants you to be injured due to your lack of understanding. 6 out of 5 stars for me. 11/04/2020 update: I have 2 generators for my power failure situations one 4000 watt open frame that has a bonded neutral. And I have a 1800/2250 watt inverter with the floating neutral. I want to run my furnace and electronics on the inverter. Say the furnace cycles every 30 minutes depending upon mother-nature there is 25 minutes of downtime where the ECO mode will run ever so quietly powering the electronics (routers, bridges and networked drives....etc. ) when the open frame unit will be going full throttle load or no load. Problem is my furnace does not like the floating neutral. I emailed EZ Generator to describe the scenario with no reply. I suppose legally they have to be careful providing solutions. I recalled I had an Isolation Transformer of medical grade I picked up as it was being disposed of (brand new) that has sat for 10 years forgotten. I plugged my TrippLite ISOBar surge protector into the Inverter and the Fault light was on. I ran the washing machine earlier going thru the same model surge protector and it worked find despite it recognizing the floating neutral and it did not like it. Isolation transformer in place the output side of the transformer is bonded. I run my cord from there to the furnace and BINGO it runs fine off of the inverter. And if it didn't my plan was to still use this device to clean up the dirty power feeding my furnace. The furnace ran fine off of the open frame generator. But I was wondering if there are any long term concerns sending dirty power to it. My furnace is not one of the latest high tech units. It does have a controller that looks like it wants clean power. I just want to back off on the fuel consumption during the time when the furnace is not running. And we have enough computer electronics in the house that really calls for clean power even though they are all low wattage devices. I realize I am fortunate to have acquired a device at the best possible cost-basis as in free. And that device is valued around $350 taking in power from an Inverter that costs only around $150 more. So for the average person looking for a cheap solution this is out of the question. If you have a very high-end Inverter and do not want to play with using up one of the outlets with a plug crossed between the neutral and ground for me an Isolation Transformer solved the problem. I used the 'How to connect the switch to existing equipment' video to allow me to successfully complete this project. Now that I have verified the generator running the furnace worked flawlessly I am ready to post this review. The furnace kill switch and he EZ Generator switch in the attached photo above are both mounted on the cold air return on the furnace. Some comments from customers indicate that they are confused that older versions of this switch shipped with the ground wire as a green wrapped wire. Now they ship with a bare copper wire. They are the same lead and need to be handled as the same ground wire. I used a sharpie to mark the Neutral Load and I am glad I did since when I was feeding the leads thru the connector the tags ripped off. This is a great device that fits my needs exactly as I had hoped. As I said I watched the "Kevin" video over and over. My dad was the electrician not me. The online tutorials are very good. It is a product I hope I will not have to use. In 25+ years in my house there was only one power outage where I relied on the wood stove for heat. No electricity meant radiant heat the 2 blower motors on the wood stove were useless. Even if only for peace-of-mind I am glad I did this simple project.

This unit was easy to install (with EZ generator youtube video) and works well at a fraction of the cost to install a home generator. Now if power is lost in the wintertime, my furnace will still turn on and keep my house nice and warm.

The components are well built The switch itself seems heavy duty Got some heft to it. It’s built with copper wire. Not aluminum like the others. The unit as a whole is UL/ETL certified. Very important to be code compliant for both safety, inspection and homeowners insurance. Comes with an offset nipple and wire nuts. Nice tidy looking box made in the USA by a master electrician. That said there are some sticking points. Know your generator. Either a bonded or floating neutral. It comes setup, as is, for a bonded generator. If you have a floating generator, then theres a bit of rewiring, but it’s easy. NEVER USE A BONDING PLUG. Illegal and dangerous to life and property. The instructions could be more DIY friendly. They seem to be written for other electricians. The company does have a YouTube channel showing installation, but they could be clearer. Customer service is very helpful. The pig tails are about 24” long 12 gauge STRANDED copper. Most likely to clamp onto the female spades in the build. Stranded copper can be difficult to work with for the DIYer when using wire nuts. I used lever style wire connectors. Much easier. Also if connecting to an outlet, make sure to use one that uses side wiring. Can’t use stranded with the terminal screws. The instructions state that the wire connections need to be made outside the box. This is due to the components (inlet, switch, breaker) have spade connectors and take up all the room in the box. No room for wire nuts and extra wire. That’s why you get the offset nipple. You’ll need a metal handy box with a cover. You CAN NOT use a plastic box. The wires from the panel have to pass through the switch metal box and into the handy box to make the connections. From the handy box, out to the load. The outer sheath of the Romex has to be removed of the length inside of the switch box into the 2nd box. The exposed wires have to be encased in the offset nipple. However there maybe a problem depending on your particular situation, like mine. I was tapping into the line in the basement to my refrigerator. The wires are all exposed but very little slack. Since the wires from the panel need to pass through the switch box into the handy box that’s a problem. Not enough wire to work with. You’ll either need to run a longer wire to the load (outlet, heating system). That can be costly and a pain. Easiest option is to use wire butt connectors and lengths of wire to extend them. In my case I added an outlet in the basement just outside the switch box. Using pig tails off of the outlet, I made the wire connections in the switch box adding a 4” box extension ring on the switch box. This gives plenty of room for the wire connections and components in the one box. And it’s a lot easier. Costs the same as a handy box and cover. A little preplanning goes a long way. And plan on a trip or two or three or more to the home improvement store. Like every other home project. I connected one to the circuit to my refrigerator and an other one to my furnace. Both work flawlessly. I tested both hookups with generator for 15 mins to insure it’s done right. Very pleased with the product as a whole.

I have a 2500-watt pure sine wave inverter with LifePro battery. Plenty of power to start and run a furnace. I first tried the pig tail method to power the furnace. I rewired the furnace with a plug and outlet. This worked fine to power the furnace on grid power but would not work when powered by the inverter. I did some research and it became apparent that many new high efficiency furnaces are very sensitive to floating neutral inverter power. I turned to the EZ generator switch once I saw it could be wired for a floating neutral inverter (most inverters and all-in-one rechargeable power sources are floating neutral). After watching an excellent video from the DIY HVAC guy in which he installs and EZ generator Switch that is wired for floating neutral, I decided this was the way to go. Installation was fairly straight-forward. The biggest issue I had was locating and securing the box in the fairly tight space between my furnace and duct work (see photo). DIY guy had a good install tip. I used the switch box as storage for all the wires that needed connection. There are a lot of wires, and to try to get them in the EZ generator box would be very difficult. You no longer need a switch at the furnace because the EZ has an on/off setting on the switch box. I also used lever nuts versus the included wire nut caps. They hold and isolate the wiring better and are unlikely to come loose. Can you do this yourself? Probably. I have average DYI electrical skills (i.e. fan, light, electrical socket installation, etc.). Make sure your power is off, get a good contact voltage tester and grounded screw driving and start the project. Is the project worth it? Definitely. I live in the Midwest, and we get ice and snowstorms that can knock out power. My relatives in the south have also experienced similar incidents. I can work around having no lights, but no heat is a different story. With addition of battery clamps that I purchased to attach to my car batteries in an extended power loss situation, I can likely power my furnace for as long as necessary in a prolonged outage. Do this before winter arrives and you will have peace of mind the entire winter.

My heating system is a gas fired boiler with hot water baseboard. We have had multiple lengthy the power outages, but the natural gas never failed. In order to run the heat you still need 120 V at a couple hundred watts to enable the gas valve and run the circulating pump and zone valves. My system was hardwired, so there was no way to power it during a power failure. I added one of these right next to the boiler emergency off switch. It was dead simple to install. The kit is all metal and comes with everything you need including a short conduit stub, grounding wires, and wire nuts. I am a DIYer but not an electrician and the whole thing took me maybe an hour to install. The instructions are clear and the company provides numerous videos online that show you exactly what to do. The wire leads are marked with tags so it’s dead simple to install. Once you’re done, you have a plug that accepts the female end of an extension cord where you can connect to a 120V battery power station or a generator. It is UL and CSA listed for safety and code compliance. It is made in the USA by a small company that employs veterans and who actually pick up the phone when you call for help. If you need to add back up power availability to your heating system or to any hardwired device that is 120 V, get yourself one of these. You won’t be sorry.

I am an amateur in electricity and home repair. We lost power for three days 2 years ago during heavy rains and got cold and our basement flooded. So, never again. I bought this for my new gas furnace. I asked but was refused by the furnace installer to install a transfer box. He just said to call an electrician. Why pay an electrician when you can do it yourself for twice the price? There was no easy place to install it on the power input side of the furnace. All the wiring runs in the ceiling and down the duct work of the furnace, unlike the easy installation shown in the video. I attached it to the furnace cabinet opposite where the power comes in and ran the wires through the furnace box, along the gas line in the furnace in company with a bunch of furnace control wires. (I had to get my son-in-law to drill the mounting holes for me in the sheet metal, since he had the proper sort of drill, the right fasteners, and the Loctite) The wires were too short. They are 25 inches long, and I needed at least 33 inches. So, I had to rewire the thing. I gave up trying to find all the different colors and sizes and just used 12 gauge stranded black and white wire (the web site advised using 12 for the hot wires and 14 for the neutral wires) and 14 gauge green ground wire. The connectors I bought were a bit bigger than the ones that came with the box. So, it was a tight fit getting the box together and hard to get five wires out one knockout hole. That always makes me feel uneasy. But, it works as advertised. This did not take 45 minutes. The positives: It works. Seems well made. Good instructional video. Beware that the hard part can be just finding a place to mount the transfer switch. Negatives: Short wires for some types of installation. A pain to rewire. Box a bit on the small size. The instruction are incomplete. I forget exactly, but I believe they showed the same type of installation (circuit or appliance) twice in the printed instructions. No additional mounting hardware, like elbows, bushings, fasteners, and conduits. That's all extra cost and a lot of time going to the store. Would I buy it again. Yes. But, having done one install, I would look around to try to avoid the negative issues mentioned in this review. BTW, installing a power cord on the furnace was a 15 minute job, which I did before I could get the transfer box installed. For reasons unclear, the NEC calls for hard wiring appliances which are not moved for routine maintenance. If you read blogs by electricians, most cannot explain why this is necessary, and they point out that it is much more dangerous having amateurs messing around with this stuff when the power goes out and they try some desperate measure to get their furnace to work. In some parts of the country, they say, power cords are routine on furnaces. So, being in code in this instance appears to be a waste of time and money without anybody being able to explain why a transfer switch is better than a simple power cord. A transfer box is much more complicated than a power cord, that's for sure, and thus more prone to failure.

Great Product with great support. Husband hooked this up with no problems. He says get the real thing made right here in Pa. There are a lot of cheap knock-offs out there. He hooked it up and it works perfect! It only takes a few minutes to change this from bonded neutral to floating neutral. He made sure to shut off all the electric in the panel and he watched the installation videos several time. The main goal here is to have the gas heater working when power goes out. Next, Fridge and Freezer. He is going to purchase the next one right from the company.

Good quality and easy to install.

Impressed by the quality. This switch will last a lifetime. The design is perfect and the install was easy. I have it connected to my furnace on the panel, and use it with my Delta 2. It works great and it's easy for anyone in the family to operate. If I need to backup another circuit I will be buying another.

This is a great switch to have, installation is easy and it works great. CSA/UA approved (pro install recommended)

I'm using this to switch my home refrigerator from grid to generator power in the event of a power outage. It does the job safely, and beautifully. Comes as advertised with everything prewired for a switched neutral connection, and useful inclusions like the offset nipple and wire nuts. There were a few minor differences from what I saw demonstrated in the manufacturer's YouTube videos, such as the wires not coming pre-skinned, ground wire not being wired to the box, and no more printed instruction sheet, only a QR code linking to their online documentation.

If you are in Canada order this through "fulfilled by amazon" or order from the USA Amazon site directly. Some listings on CA site are drop shipping. As advertised, takes into account generators with floating neutrals which is a big safety concern provides clear instructions and has several good installation videos on their website. This product helps you keep the heat on without the danger of back feeding which is also illegal. A big safety improvement for those of us with smaller generators or power packs that don't have a whole house system. I think they are very well made, cover seems to be powder coated, components have proper ratings for current flow and safety ratings including motor rated switches, connections inside are proper heat rated stranded wire with crimp connectors. While it seems a little expensive, if you price out the individual cost of components and the cost and time to manufacture it is pretty reasonable in my view.

4 stars only because its expensive for Canadians. Great device to replace my furnace on/off switch if my power goes out. I can plug my Jackery 3600 into it and I'll have about 20 hours of run time for my furnace depending on how cold it is. Install was simple and took 15 minutes. Lots of videos out there for the dyi. If you have no back ground in electricity, get an electrician to do it.