Perfumes: The A-Z Guide

個人的に香水には興味がなかったのですが、和訳の世界香水ガイドが（香りの印象をどう言葉で表現して伝えるかという読み物として）おもしろかったので、オリジナルではどのような表現になっているのだろうという好奇心から購入。おのおのの香水の評論については専門的な方に評価を譲るとして、本の体裁など交えて感想を少し。 和訳本が サイズ約15.5ｘ21.5ｘ2.9ｃｍ、生成り薄口のすべりのよい紙に臙脂色の明朝体で、文字が全体的に読みやすい印象に対し、英語版は 約24.3ｘ14.9ｘ3ｃｍ 縦長。ややテクスチャーのあるホワイトの紙に黒のセンチュリー体でほぼ余白なく各ページにびっしり。 和訳のほうには、ブランド別の索引があるのに対し、こちら英語版にはなし。両方とも、（写真など入れられていない、ことに英語版はブランド名から引けないという時点で、そもそも）初心者向きという感じではなく、ある程度 香りに知識のある方が（あくまでも、その道に精通する、強烈な好みをもった一個人の意見として）参照するのに適した内容かと思えます。 ただ表紙と装丁は英語版のほうが圧倒的に美しい。マット紙にブルーのボトルが映え、余白を生かしたレイアウトのなかにサンセリフのシンプルな文字が半光沢で凸にエンボス印字してあります。香水を扱う内容にふさわしい洗練されたカバーデザイン。 内容についての感想を、（和訳も参照の上）少し書きますと、とにかく歯に衣着せない評論の嵐。まるで原生林の中をナタでバッサ バッサとぶった切りながら突き進んでいくような論評、寸評、酷評。そしてところどころで、まるであたかも突然視界に花園が広がったり(シャネルNo.5 Parfum), 青い海原がひらけたり（Yohji Homme）したかのような絶賛コメント。 たとえば、（5ワードでばっさり切って捨てられる香水、‘夜モスクワのタクシーに乗ったらたらこんな匂い’、とか、1行未満で酷評される香水がある一方、）シャネル」No.5の、2ページにも及ぶ熱の入ったコメント--- ‘When I lived in Villefranche, a little harbor village near Nice, I would occasionally walk to the nearby marina to look at a thirty-foot wooden sloop parked halfway down the pier.’ と、香水とは何の脈絡もないように見えるところから始まり、 ‘それは物質の持ちうるいかなる美しさをも超えていた。事実、胸が痛むほどの美しさであった。このような、人間のつくりだした芸術品が他にもある。ジョン・ロブのウィンドウでみかけた・・・ （中略）そして、もう少し手の届くところで、シャネルNo.5パルファムだ。’ と その完璧さ加減を表現。 天然原料の品質さえその年々で変動するのにこの香水の品質をどう一定に保つかの企業努力にまで話は及んでいる。 何かのジャンルで品物を比較したり評論しようとすると、その業界に通じている人ほど詳しくかける反面、ビジネスとしてのしがらみも多く、本心で思うことを公にするということはかなり難しいに違いないと感じますが、ここまで書きまくられると（それが自分の感覚とは違う部分があろうことを差し引いても）なんだかかえって爽快。 嗅覚の研究者としての知識に加え、時折、解説の中で香りのイメージが音楽にたとえられたり文学が引用されたりと、やはり著者の芸術的感性の鋭さを感じさせる。なまじのコスメ評論家では遠く及ばない説得力。

If you're a fragrance fanatic or just looking to delve into the world of perfumes, then "Perfume A-Z Guide" by Luca Turin is the perfect companion. Turin, a renowned fragrance critic, takes readers on a witty and informative journey through the complex and often mysterious world of perfumery. The book is organized alphabetically, with each entry featuring Turin's signature blend of humor and insight. From classic scents to avant-garde creations, he covers it all, providing detailed descriptions of each fragrance and the ingredients that make them unique. But "Perfume A-Z Guide" is more than just a list of scents. Turin's writing style is engaging and entertaining, making even the most technical aspects of perfumery accessible to all readers. His love for fragrance is infectious, and you'll find yourself captivated by his passion and knowledge. Overall, "Perfume A-Z Guide" is a must-read for anyone who appreciates the art of fragrance. Turin's expertise and wit make this book an entertaining and informative read that will leave you smelling the world around you in a whole new way.

Luca Turin est un vieux critique des parfums comme oeuvres d'art (son premier livre de critiques est de 1994) et sa jeune collègue le suit avec enthousiasme dans sa mission de diffusion de l'art du parfum. Leurs critiques peuvent sembler irrespectueuses (mais de quoi? du travail des agences de marketing?), mais elles sont toujours justes et prennent en compte les goùts de tout le monde. Si vous réussissez à trouver un des parfums qu'ils vous conseillent (tous les jours, de trés bons parfums qui manqueront à beaucoup de gens, sont reformulés et massacrés ou tout simplement supprimés au nom d'un soit-disant impératif "économique"), vous trouverez un trésor, une oeuvre d'art pour vous tout seul: presque tout le monde a une peau qui adapte les parfums. Donc mème s'il est écrit en anglais et date un peu, ce livre est indispensable pour mieux apprécier les parfums en général, mème ceux qui ne vous plaisent pas.....Et le style littéraire de Luca Turin est toujours aussi impayable!

I was inspired to purchase this book having seen it on display in my local Lush shop carefully page marked with all the Lush entries. I had a quick flick through the book in Lush and decided that it looked sufficiently interesting to justify me buying it. This is a pretty chunky paperback with over six hundred pages and well over one thousand, five hundred different perfumes reviewed alphabetically. I love the fact that this is done alphabetically as it makes it so easy to look up a specific perfume should you want to use the book in this way. The book is so much more than an alphabetical list of perfume reviews though and this is what makes it worthwhile for me. I love the reviews but combined with all the rest it is just so much more worthwhile. You could read this from cover to cover but I haven’t. I read all the written chapters about perfume and how we think of scents but the list of perfume reviews I pick a couple now and then, or I look up specific perfumes or brands and read those while enjoying a sit down and a cup of tea or coffee. THE AUTHORS Luca Turin is a scientist who has been working with the sense of smell and has created his own controversial theory about how we smell things. He is the author of ‘The Secret of Scent’ and the subject of the book ‘Emperor of Scent’. I do have his other book but have not read the one about him. Tania Sanchez is a perfume collector (an dream job in my view) and an expert on perfumes as well as being a journalist. MY VIEWS I really liked the fact that this is so much more than a series of reviews. At the end of the book there are a number of lists. These cover a range of things. The one I found most useful was the glossary of materials and terms used in perfumery. Many of the ingredients have scientific names and this glossary explains what some of these are which I have found handy in my review writing and also has helped me to understand what they have written in their reviews too. The lists of ‘Top Tens’ are also fun and range from ‘Top Ten’ for each of male and female scents and then you also have a list of ’Best feminines for Men’ and vice versa. I was pleased to see one of my favourites, ‘Breath of God’ by Lush was mentioned in the list for ‘Best Bang for the Buck’ and also in the list for the ‘Best Strange Fragrances’ as well. Interesting to see a perfume named after ‘Derby’ coming up in ‘Best Big Ticket Splurges’. When I investigated that one it seems it is created by Guerlain and came in an ugly bottle but they reckon it is one of the ten best male scents of all time! At the back we also find an index or list of all the perfumes covered in the book according to the star rating given by the authors. It is fascinating to read about how they chose the perfumes and how they wrote the reviews. They both smelled each and every one firstly on paper blotters then on skin, usually on both of their skins for one day. They then discuss their views and if there is a disagreement they either both write their views or the most interesting viewpoint wins the day or one converts the other to their way of thinking. I loved reading Luca Turin’s history of perfumes chapter where he explains how perfume manufacture has developed over the years. He does say in this chapter that natural and synthetic materials are both used in perfumes but that “if you smell them, pure natural raw materials are more interesting than aromachemicals.....because naturals are mixtures of tens, sometimes hundreds of molecules and our nose recognises this as richness and depth.” He does go on to say that there have been great creations in synthetics that are not available naturally and of course some like musk are more consistent , cheaper and kinder than using animal products. Sanchez has a number of chapters early in the book and I loved the way she thinks of perfume. She discusses whether perfume is a science or an art. The perfume manufacturers of course create combinations of aromas to perfect their scent and psychologists talk of smells and perfume as being about sex and distant memories. However as Sanchez comments if a woman chose her perfume to attract the attention of a man she would be better off wearing the smell of bacon cooking! Interestingly the ability to compare and discuss perfumes and scents has developed rapidly since we are all able to access the internet and share our views . This has also led to an increase in sales as the more we talk about things the more we want. I am often tempted by good perfume reviews to go and buy a bottle. Another interesting discussion was that unlike many art forms perfume once smelled is lost forever. You cannot get what you have used back in the bottle. It is also something that you need to experience first hand really to enjoy. Reading about a perfume only gives you a limited experience. The scratch and sniff things in magazines are a great move forward but maybe they will find how to send smells through the computers too in the future! It is hard to share unless you actually have the perfume to try. Testing what is right for you is another helpful pointer and she says do not test more than a few at a time in the shop then choose one to try on you and leave the shop. That way you get a good idea of that perfume on you and how it develops as your nose isn’t confused by multiple messages. Useful information such as the fact that a perfume does deteriorate over time and in the light so there is no point in hanging on to a well loved perfume for years as it will not be the same scent you loved in time. They share the fact that they love perfume and it is after all an affordable luxury. You can buy cheap stuff or spend a fortune but it still gives you pleasure. If you like a perfume don’t worry about the brand, the name or the celebrity endorsement, enjoy it for what it is and the pleasure it gives you. “As with the tawdriest pop melody, there is a base pleasure in perfume.... It decorates the day. It makes you feel as if the colours of the air have changed. It’s a substitute for having an orchestra follow you about playing the theme song of your choice.” I thought that was a great description and describes how i feel about perfumes and scents generally. Remember scent comes in so many of our everyday products from washing up liquid, laundry products to toilet cleaners, air fresheners and scented candles. We are bombarded with scent choices all day long and perfumes are really just one part of this. There is just so much information as well as the reviews in this book that I would recommend it to anyone who is interested in perfumes and aromas. Many of their reviews are somewhat blunt and cutting but that doesn’t bother me as I read them for what they are, the authors’ opinion s rather than fact. That is all any review can be and should be and each of us has a different idea or interpretation of what we have smelled. This is well worth a read. I am keeping my copy as I did in and out of it regularly. Others may read it and think that is enough and pass it one. It will not appeal to everyone but I do think as so many people are interested in scented candles and toiletries that this book will appeal to a wider audience that just those buying perfumes.

unter den Büchern, die sich mit Parfum beschäftigen! Auf mehr als 300 Seiten werden fast 1500 Parfums, gut bekannte und kaum bekannte, klassische und aktuelle, präsentiert und bewertet. Zunächst werden in der Titelzeile jeweils Name und Hersteller des Parfums angeführt, eine Bewertung mit 1-5 Sternen vorgenommen (von schrecklich über enttäuschend, adäquat, empfehlenswert bis meisterhaft) und der Duftcharakter mit zwei Worten eingeordnet (z.B. "ginger oriental", "woody citrus" o.ä.). Dann folgt eine Kritik des Parfums, die manchmal äußerst knapp ausfällt, v.a. wenn das Parfum den Kritikern nicht gefällt, manchmal aber auch eine eng bedruckte Seite füllt mit unterhaltsamen und interessanten Details, z.B. zu dem Künstler, der den Duft kreiert hat, Inhaltsstoffen, Vergleichen mit anderen Parfums, historische Einordnung usw. Die beiden Kritiker nehmen kein Blatt vor den Mund - ihre Kritiken sind subjektiv, frech, manchmal auf eine witzige Art bösartig ("Miss Sixty - if you intend to be a miss at sixty"), aber nie belästigen sie den Leser mit den nichtssagenden lyrischen Ergüssen, mit denen die Public Relations Abteilungen der Parfumindustrie ihre Produkte bewerben - und die nicht selten fast die gesamte Substanz deutschsprachiger Übersichten ausmachen, z.B. Parfum - Lexikon der Düfte oder Parfums, Edition 2008 . Kritiker und Autoren sind Luca Turin, dessen früheres Buch Secret of Scent mir außerordentlich gefallen hat, und Tania Sanchez. Beide lieben und betrachten Parfum als eine Kunst ähnlich wie z.B. Musik. Wer welches Parfum besprochen hat, ist jeweils mit einem Kürzel gekennzeichnet. Eingeleitet wird das Buch über die ersten 50 Seiten mit mehreren sehr interessanten Artikeln über "weibliche" und "männliche" Parfums, die Geschichte der modernen Parfumherstellung seit ca. 1880, also seitdem synthetische Duftstoffe die Möglichkeiten der Parfumeure wesentlich erweitert haben, und einen Abschnitt mit "frequently asked questions" zu Themen wie Allergie, Toxizität, Umweltverträglichkeit, Haltbarkeit von Parfums usw. Abgerundet wird das sehr positive Gesamtbild durch eine liebevolle zweifarbige Gestaltung des Textes, der gelegentlich mit der Skizze eines Flakons zum gerade besprochenen Parfum aufgelockert wird. Einziger Wermutstropfen: Bisher gibt es dieses Buch nur auf Englisch. Dennoch: Es gibt kein vergleichbares Buch in deutscher Sprache und es kann nichts passieren, wenn man mal einen Satz nicht ganz versteht!