KS2B Kickstand, 285 mm. Black

The item I received (ordered 4/30/12) was exactly like the customer picture (posted by T.K.) and included the kickstand, optional top cross-plate, long hex-head bolt, short socket-head cap bolt, and rubber foot... all well packaged in a sealed blister pack/card. I was a little hesitant to order based on some recent reviews stating that the product arrived loosely packaged in plastic bag, was scratched, and did not include all of the items I just listed (most notably, the rubber foot). I ordered the 285mm version for right at eleven dollars, shipped from and sold by Amazon (the 305mm version is currently being sold by a 3rd party vendor). Installation was on a 2012 Trek 7.4FX, 22.5" (57cm). I would speculate that most/all Trek FX models (regardless of actual frame size) utilize the same kickstand length, as we also have a women's Trek 7.2FX 15" that has the same Greenfield kickstand in the same length (albeit in silver). The long bolt, used with the top cross-plate that goes on top of the frame rails (for bikes that do not have a suitable kickstand mounting hole) uses a 14mm socket/wrench. It, nor the cross-plate, were needed with my Trek 7.4, as it has a mounting plate with hole on the bottom of the frame rails just behind the pedal crank-set. The shorter bolt is a socket head cap screw type, and uses an 8mm allen wrench. Installation is straightforward, kickstand on bottom, bolt from top through frame hole into kickstand. Like some others, I had to shorten the kickstand slightly (3/4") to get the lean angle I desired. There are guide lines for cutting on the back of the kickstand that will help one maintain the angle of the cut (or just match your saw to the factory angle at the bottom of the kickstand). A hacksaw followed by a brief clean up of the cut with a file (or sandpaper), push on the rubber foot (not so far it distorts the rubber on the bottom, though), and that's it. If cutting the kickstand is necessary, there are directions on the back of the packaging for determining how much to cut off. Basically, install the boot on the kickstand if you're going to use it (it's removable) and then install the kickstand on the bike snugly (no reason to permanently tighten if removing it again to cut it, as I did). Place items of identical height under both bike wheels (but not under the kickstand itself) until the desired bike angle is reached. Measure height of whatever was placed under the wheel. That measurement is the amount to remove from the kickstand. The kickstand itself is of nice quality, good strength, and has a very nice "feel" to it. By that I mean, the full up and full down positions have a solid, locked-in feeling, yet the kickstand itself is very easy to move. The black color is a satin finish, not glossy and not completely flat.

I've bought five of these kickstands over the past couple years for all the bikes in my family and am about to buy two more. This kickstand is a MUST for all bikes! I don't know why bike manufacturers aren't using this design anymore - the ones that come on bikes these days is a joke. I bought my first one for the Specialized comfort bike I purchased for my wife for her birthday. (For $450, you'd think a bike would come with a kickstand, but I digress...) The kick stand worked great and it looked like it was a factory installed part! With that success, I tackled all my kids' bikes, which all have that joke of a two-position kickstand that comes on all Walmart/Target bikes these day. These factory installed disasters are impossible for little feet to actually move without kicking it 7-8 times, and they inherently loosen and fall off the bike after about a year. Wow, what a difference this <$10 upgrade makes! I just now just installed one on my Specialized road bike that I've had for 10 years. For all of you that may be thinking: --"Oh no, I just put 80 grams more weight on my bike, and now I won't be a super-fast biker anymore!", or --"This kickstand will make my bike less aerodynamic, add more drag to my ride, and will make me go 0.00003 mph slower!, or --"If anybody sees me with a kickstand on my super-expensive showy-offy bike, other bikers will laugh at me no matter how cool my Spandex is!" Toughen up, ride harder, and INSTALL THIS KICKSTAND! I can not believe it took me this long to do it myself, but I absolutely love it and wish I would have done it from Day 1. The next one I order is going on my mountain bike. Yes, you heard me correct: I'm installing a kickstand on a MOUNTAIN BIKE! <Gasp!> Now for the sizing (and probably now the most useful part of my review). The other nice thing about these kickstands is that they are made out of aluminum, and if it is too long, you can easily cut it down to size with a hacksaw with relative ease (if you have a metal file, that helps too to soften the cut edges and de-burr it, but it's not necessary). There are even cut lines on the kickstand to help with the cutting at the correct angle. To date, I have installed the following: >305 mm kickstand: Men's Specialized 23" (XL) road bike. This kickstand was way too big. I ended up cutting it down 5 times, removing around 1.75 inches before it was the right size. >305 mm kickstand: Men's Fuji 19" (M) mountain bike. Fits perfectly. >285 mm kickstand: Women's Specialized (M) comfort bike. Had to cut off about 2". Now fits perfectly. >285 mm kickstand: Women's Diamondback (M) comfort bike. Fits perfectly. (Same size frame as above, but frame is higher off the ground) >285 mm kickstand: Teenager 14.5" mountain bike. Fits perfectly In summary, if the base of your bike of the bottom kickstand plate will be mounted is less than 10.75", then the 285 mm should work out fine. If it is higher than that, then I'd go for the 305 mm. One other thing to note: some bikes have rear derailleur or brake cables running near where this is mounted - sometimes there can be an interference with the kickstand (see my second uploaded photo). This hasn't been an issue yet, but where there is an interference, the rubbing may wear down the cable over time - we'll have to see. Last, some reviewers have mentioned that theirs came with rubber boots - none of mine have (nor do I want them).

Got this to replace a very old, pre-existing kickstand on my bike from the same brand. I don’t know how long the original was in use, but eventually it does get loose at the rivet that connects the leg to the rest of the assembly. It’s a sturdy kickstand for the price though, so it’s worth replacing when it gets to be too loose to deal with anymore. The replacement installed very easily, only requiring an adjustable wrench to tighten the plate on top of the bike frame so the kickstand will stay in place. It also features markings with measurements on the inner surface if it needs to be cut down, but mine was at the right size out of the box.

Bought for parents bikes and installed qucik.