Lisle 65600 Broken Plug Remover for Ford

This tool got me out of a bad situation where my spark plug broke inside the motor of my F150. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and after watching a few YouTube videos on how to use it, I was able to extract my spark plug without issue. Save some money and get this tool if you're in a situation like me!

Update: This first pragraph is a more to the point summary of the below review. I used the Lisle tool to replace 5 broken plugs out of 8 on a 2007 Ford F150 5.4L at 94K. It was quite literally a must to remove the broken plugs and worked flawlessly.The following paragraphs may be helpful if your having an issue with your broken plugs:Replaced the plugs on a well maintained 2007 F150 5.4L at 94K and followed Ford's TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on plug removal to the letter (actually above and beyond by soaking the plugs in aerokroil penetrating oil 18+ hours after a 1/4 loosen turn) and 5 of the 8 plugs still broke. Prior to, I was really stressing over doing this job after reading all the horror stories from Ford owners of plugs breaking . So just in case I bought the Lisle tool and had it there ready to go. Boy I'm I glad I did! I'm a weekend mechanic, I don't do it for work, fun or a hobby....I do it when the truck/car needs fixed and it's within my technical and tool capabilities. This tool is well within mine and it will be for most people. If you change your own spark plugs you can use this tool. One note is make sure you have a 'Deep Socket 15/16 Socket', you HAVE to have this to use the tool for the extracting part.. A standard 15/16 socket won't do, it's got to be a deep well socket (Guess who had to degrease themselves enough to go to the store to get a socket!).The Lisle tool worked flawlessly but there's a few points you need to address if you use it. Having an air compressor with a long angled attachment to blow any penetrating oil or broken ceramic from cylinders is highly recommended. I used the Hiltex® 31111 24" Air Blow Gun with Angled Aluminum Nozzle | Standard 1/4-inch NPT Air Inlet that I bought on Amazon and it worked great.BE CAREFUL when you use the aerokroil oil. If you get too much down into the actual cylinder it can cause MAJOR problems with engine 'hydro lock'. So if you soak the plugs with the oil, be SURE that you get the excess oil out of the plug port before you try to extract the plug. I used a DIY contraption (it was a 3/4" diameter flex hose taped to the vac hose) on my shop vac to suck out the excess oil and then blew it out with the air hose for safe measure. Then, when the plugs were finally out, I repeated that process getting any exceess oil out of the cylinders before putting the new plugs in.Also, there's 2 different ways the plugs break and are described in Ford's TSB as 'Mode 1' and 'Mode 2'. Mode 1 is where the plug just snaps and you bring out the top half of the plug in your socket. That's "good", just go straight to the Lisle tool to extract it. But with me, mine broke off in Mode 2, where the whole plugs turns but is still stuck in the engine. Then in order to use the Lisle tool you have to get that top portion of the plug unattached from the rest of the plug. That was my pain, trying to get a pair of needle nose pliers, with angled heads or not, in some of those plug holes. It was impossible to disengage the top portion the plug in "Mode 1" with the pliers in 2 of the cylinders. So in those 2 cylinders I retightened and loosened the plugs several times, with a lot of wiggling it around between, until the top of the plug finally disengaged.In addition, I used the Sunex 884505 3/8-Inch Drive 9/16-Inch Extra Deep Spark Plug Socket, available on Amazon and recommend it.Thank goodness for the Lisle tool, it's a serious 5 star tool, but I'm not happy with Ford....at all. If this is just too much for you to tackle and you decide to take the chance with a mechanics shop, be sure to Google the Ford Spark Plug Settlement. It explains the class action settlement against Ford for this problem. It explains their reimbursement procedure for over expenses you incur for having the plugs changed out. There's forms you can download to complete the process. It was a slap in the face to me because it's percentage based but if your stuck and can't do this job yourself make sure you use it.One last note. If you have the money and your approaching 100K go ahead and replace the coil packs with a quality product. They sit on top of the plug and have to be removed anyway to take the plugs out so no extra time. On my previous Ford 5.4L they started going out 1 by 1 after 100K so this time I just took care of it at the same time. Good Luck!

I very rarely write product reviews, but I was so impressed with this tool that here I am, writing a review.I don't know who designed the spark plugs or the seating arrangement for the Triton 3v engine, but if I ever meet him I'll shake him warmly by the neck because it's a horrible piece of engineering. Despite being as careful as I possibly could, I was left with 3 out of 8 plugs broken and stuck in the engine with no clue about how to remove them without a very expensive trip to the garage.Luckily, a friend mentioned that there was a tool available that was specifically designed for this problem so a quick Google took me to Amazon and a selection of tools for this job. I picked the 'Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines' based on the number and quality of the reviews and sent in my order. I used the expedited shipping option, which was a no brainer as my truck was immobile while it sat with 3 broken plugs. Delivery was reasonably fast - I ordered on Sunday and the tool was at my door on Wednesday; no complaints there.On opening the package, I find that the tool is actually 2 tools, one for each step in the removal process and is housed in its own sturdy plastic box with instructions (both written and pictorial) which were easy to follow and a few spare nylon washers. Everything was well made and I was able to put it to work straight away.I was curious about how the tool would work until I was able to hold it and figure it out - it's pretty simple and very effective. The first tool is used to push the ceramic down through the plug to leave a gap between the ceramic and the top of the stuck sleeve. The second tool is screwed down into this gap, cutting a thread into the inside of the plug sleeve and gripping in firmly. Then it's just a matter of turning the nut that pulls on the threaded section, withdrawing it and the broken plug from the engine.I cannot overstate how easy this tool was to use and how effective it was in removing the broken plugs! From starting the process to standing with the extracted broken plug in my hand took around 10 minutes per plug. The ONLY thing I would mention with this item is that because there isn't a lot of room in an engine bay to turn a wrench you'll need to have a set of deep sockets available.A well made tool, very good price, quick delivery and it performed exactly as advertised without any fuss. I'm almost looking forward to the next plug change so I can use it again!