Daisy Powerline 35 Multi-Pump Pneumatic Pellet/BB Rifle

Best BB gun I've ever owned, because of the following points: Lightweight but solid, tons of power, superbly accurate with BB's at longer ranges, very easy to pump, and very inexpensive. Also I got the Camo version and it's very cool looking. It shoots pellet too, but one at a time. I have found that pellets are only very slightly more accurate than BB's in this gun, since it's a smooth bore. But I bought this gun because I wanted a true BB gun with a smooth bore barrel, but one with lots of power and great accuracy, and this gun delivers all of that big time! Highly recommended.

For Fathers day my dad got a very high powered, high quality, and high price(for a kid anyway) break barrel pellet rifle. After shooting with my dad, my brother and I both decided to get a BB gun. My brother chose the Crosman Recruit witch is much cheaper, but not as good as this one. At first I looked at the Daisy 880, but then I found the 901. They shoot exactly the same, but this one is much higher quality than the 880. The 901 is made of an extremely durable polymer, where as the 880 is not quite as durable. I also liked the 901's pump lever more. The 880 has a flimsy looking pump lever. I watched some YouTube videos and the 880 seemed to have a longer pump. The 880 also seemed awkward to pump. With the 901 I can pump while the gun is shouldered, which I find nice. Now that I have compared the 901 and the 880, I'll talk about performance. To load the gun you pull back the bolt and then pump 1-10 times. 5 is enough for target practice. After the gun is pumped either load a pellet (or if you're using BB's a magnet will have grabbed the BB) close the bolt. Then take aim and fire. The trigger is good. The scope is a fixed 4 power scope. It works perfectly with this gun. If you want a better scope then I recommend the Tasco 3-7x20 mm scope. Once the scope is sighted properly, it is deadly accurate with pellets. BB's are less accurate, but they are fine for 'plinking'. In fact I use BB's every time I shoot unless its at a target or some kind of family shooting competition. The gun is extremely light and feels very solid. No wobbling at all. This gun is my first air gun ever and I love it. For a starter I recommend this kit, and for someone who already has air rifles you should get the version without a scope or any other accessories. This gun will work well for pest control.

My son has enjoyed this immensely, and has used it probably every other day since Christmas for 4 months now... We had a bit of a time figuring out the safety features at first, how to load and pump... I had one like it when I was younger that was a bit easier to use - but it's not a big deal once you read the manual. Feels like a nice powerful shot for a youth beginners' airgun, accurate enough, and fun for plinking around on an afternoon in the backyard. The value is great since it comes with a good deal of extras (BBs, pellets, targets). Very satisfied with the purchase. The scope was difficult to zero, and my son ended up taking it off since the field of vision is so small. The gun isn't accurate out to the distance that a scope is super helpful, and it is quicker to acquire closer targets with iron sights, anyway. I'm still rating this a 5 despite the scope being a throw-away gimmick, because everything else seems solid, and the iron sights are plenty accurate. The fiber-optic is a nice touch, though also kinda' silly since you don't need to pick up the sights quickly with a single shot BB gun. Overall, happy with purchase so far!

Very good quality product! Bought for a beginner and think it will hold up very well. Love the camo pattern

I purchased this gun to replace my eight year old daughter's Daisy Buck. The Buck is a bit too small for her now and she's never been able to easily cock the Buck. The under lever cocking effort is too high. In fact, after getting her fingers "bit" by the Buck a couple of times while struggling to cock it, she's afraid to even try it now. I read reviews elsewhere that the Powerline 35 is just about the easiest air gun to charge (pump) and my daughter and I have found the reports to be true. In fact, apart from its size, the Daisy Powerline 35 is better than the Buck for a young shooter. The length of pull is still too long for my daughter so I removed the stock and cut 2-3/4 inches from it using my chop saw. I used the same fine tooth blade that I use to shorten quality firearm wood stocks and it worked great! I used a hand spray bottle of water to keep the blade and plastic cool while cutting. I plan to CAD-up and print a new butt pad for my daughter's gun in nylon using my 3D printer, but I'm sure a number of other commercial options also exist. The stock is actually fully functional without a new pad--even with the open plastic chambers and ribbing showing at the butt. I can also 3D print a coupling to restore the stock to its original length later, as necessary. My daughter's gun is quite accurate, but mixed accuracy reports seem to be the norm with this air gun model. Tom Gaylord tested a Powerline 35 and reviewed it on his blog. It was disappointingly inaccurate. After several readers told him they'd experienced otherwise, Gaylord contacted Daisy and they sent him another 35 for testing. Sure enough. The second gun was very accurate. I believe that a moderately heavy trigger pull teaches effective trigger control and technique to new shooters and I'm all for a 4-1/2 to 5 pound trigger on a youth gun, but the Powerline 35 trigger is far too heavy. Accordingly, I "de-lawyered" it and brought the effort down to my preferred pull, Although it's not a job for the non-mechanically inclined or inexperienced, it is still a relatively easy gunsmithing task. Here are the general steps I undertook: 1. Unloaded the gun and opened and closeed the bolt to cock it. (I think it's easier to disassemble when cocked.) I took the safety off. 2. Opened ("half pumped") the forward hand guard and remove the four screws holding it to the pump arm while noting the location of the spring latch. 3. Removed all the screws from both sides of the plastic receiver and placed them in marked baggies (they are different lengths). 4. With the bolt handle up, I pulled up on the receiver plastic side panel to remove it from the receiver. It pivots at the front where a tab engages with the metal receiver. I was careful avoid displacing the safety and losing its detent spring and ball. 5. Flipped the gun to the other side and similarly removed the left plastic side panel. 6. Pushed the large pin out from the black painted part of the receiver. (Actually, it just about fell out.) 7. Extracted the trigger group, action, and barrel sleeve from the rear using a pair of pliers. It took a pretty good pull. The piston and oil wipe assembly separated from the aluminum cylinder bore. The aluminum cylinder remained with the trigger group and action assembly. 8. Pulled the aluminum cylinder from the action to reveal the air pump valving. 9. Pushed the pin from the air pump valve to remove the valve, seal, and spring assembly. 10. Pushed the pin out of the transfer arm, located forward of the trigger (the transfer arm is unpainted metal whereas the trigger is painted black) to displace the arm to the rear and free its forked end from under the circlip at the end of the transfer valve shaft. The transfer arm did not need to be removed nor did I remove or even touch the trigger on its own pin. 11. Used a small pin punch and the tip of a small screwdriver to rotate the transfer valve retainer (the part under the circlip) approximately 90 degrees, freeing the transfer valve and spring assembly from the valve seat and pump body. 12. Removed the transfer valve assembly and spring. 13. The spring is far stronger than necessary to ensure that the valve is closed and providing a seal from the time of the first pump The increasing air pressure from pumping also helps to force the valve closed. This heavy transfer valve spring is the cause of the heavy trigger pull. I cut about 2-3 coils from the spring, resulting in no preload of the spring in its assembly on the shaft at rest (when uninstalled in the gun). In this uninstalled condition, my shortened spring resulted in about a 1/8" gap between the circlip and the valve retainer, because the spring is no longer preloaded and driving the circlip hard against the retainer. I'm sure I could have cut more length from the spring and still achieved a seal, but my goal was to only reduce the trigger pull to 4-1/2 to 5 lbs. rather than the bare minimum possible. Assembly was the opposite of the above steps. Notes: 1. I was able to pry the spring upward from its seat (not the end with the white ball valve) and cut the spring without removing the circlip. I cut a little at a time and tested the transfer valve force in its seat several times. Now I know that approximately 1/8" gap at the circip is perfect for my needs. 2. I read elsewhere that reducing the spring length enough to only provide the bare minimum valve seal against seat pressure results in about a 2-1/2 lb trigger. Reportedly, about a 1/16" trigger spring length reduction was also accomplished along with the valve spring modification. However, I did not reduce the length of my trigger spring at all, because I found it unnecessary to do so. (Theoretically, a shorter trigger spring would lengthen the trigger pull, but it might be necessary to regain enough trigger travel for proper function with a bare minimum length valve spring. While certainly no Savage Accutrigger, the trigger is much better after spending about an hour of my time on it. UPDATE: In the interest of seeing how the trigger would perform with a lighter trigger spring, I found a hardware store spring wound from smaller diameter spring wire (lower spring rate) than the original trigger spring. I could have cut and shortened the original trigger spring, as others have done, but shortening the spring would increase the spring rate and reduce the spring "preload" or compression between the trigger and transfer arm. A higher spring rate might be perceived as undesirable "stacking" when pulling the trigger, as the resistance builds quickly. I wanted to see if I could achieve a two stage trigger effect where the first stage would be due to trigger spring compression and the second stage would be due to the transfer valve spring. After installing the new and lighter spring, I measured the trigger pull between 2 lbs - 9 oz and 2 lbs - 8 oz, with anything from two to ten pumps. I never measured the pull before and after my previous mod but I'd guess it was around 6-1/2 pounds before shortening the valve spring and 4-1/2 pounds after shortening the valve spring. The new 2-1/2 pound pull feels less gritty than the heavier pulls and there is more of a two stage effect, but the trigger still has quite a good deal of take-up and over-travel. At 2-1/2 pounds, it now has the pull weight of an Accutrigger but still lacks the quality! But it's tough to expect a $35 Daisy BB gun trigger to work as well as a $190 Savage rimfire rifle Accutrigger. All in all, I think even a discerning shooter who is accustomed to light sporting triggers would be fairly happy with this modified Powerline 35 trigger.