Bg Products MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive Lubrication Supplement Engine Restore

I've recently dealt with an oil consumption issue with my Hyundai Sonata. It was consuming more oil than normal due to oil getting stuck in the upper crankcase. Under normal circumstances the oil would flow back to oil pan, but that wasn't the case for me. This anomaly extended to other areas, clogged the piston rings, PCV valve and the exhaust manifold. I replaced all the parts that was affected except for the piston rings.However, the issue persisted because the underlying problem was never addressed which was the carbonized oil clogging the piston rings. At the time I was aware of the major issue that was affecting the consumer with the theta engines from piston rod failure but the oil consumption was not "Mainstream" but years passed and I noticed that my vehicle was consuming oil at a staggering rate.I've estimated the vehicle was burning 1-2 quarts between 300-500 miles, and I had to buy a extra gallon of oil to add into the system when I checked the dip stick. This process became quite a nuisances. I consulted the dealership to see if there was a remedy to fix the issue I was having, and they offered a combustion clean which was $636. I opted out and found a product called "Berryman intake valve & combustion chamber cleaner" for $35 dollars at Advance Auto Parts. Unfortunately, it did not correct the issue.I joined a Facebook page where the community shared tips, testimonies about the issues Hyundai's vehicles. There was constant post about oil consumption issues and the chatter about a product called EPR. Being inquisitive, I inquired with members on how they solved their issues. The focus was on this product called EPR. To be clear, I did not know anything about this product. I have used seafoam to unclog the system, but it did not work on the level I needed. A member told me about EPR and how it changed the outcome of his vehicle.Firstly, I order the combo pack EPR and MOA the shipping was decent and it arrived unblemished. I want to emphasis that if you are going to use this product buy double the oil and filters and make sure that your oil is topped off before you begin using the cleaner. The reasoning to "double the oil" is that you are going to put the cleaner in the crankcase, idle the car around 1,200RPM for 10 minutes and drain and change filter. Then fill the system again, let it idle again for 2-3min to help push sludge oil and drain. The last gallon of oil is what stays in the vehicle as the first fill and drain help move the extra sludge that still existed inside the engine out.Secondly, this product has made a difference with my problem I will make sure to update this post when the issue has been fixed. It has put my mind to ease, the product is reputable, cost effective, well rounded and used by mechanics nationwide. Although, it states for "professional use only" anyone who can understand basics terminology whether you're an everyday driver, DIY enthusiast who wants to maintain the longevity of their engines and performance can use this product.Thirdly, I confidently say that many of us who depend on our vehicles want results that will not cost a fortune. Sometimes you have to go with the costly approach, but if you are having an oil consumption problem try this product. Nothing bad will come from using it in my opinion but it varies. My Sonata is now quieter, and the oil looks fresh which is what I like to see.In my opinion the product MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive is a solid choice that has history and results. It's easy to use and delivers a noticeable difference to your engine. Now that this issue has been resolved I can rest more better knowing I won't have to deal with the past. However, I advise those who used this product to maintain an eye on oil levels to ensure that everything is within parameters.

Used EPR on a old Lexus with direct injection engine: ran at low RPM for a warn engine for 15 minutes. I can see carbon particles on the dip stick. Drain and refill oil.The engine runs much smoother now, purring, revs happilyEPR also restored some engine power: there is a hill on freeway I drove daily. The car used to downshift to 5th gear to climb. Now it stays in 6th gear and keep goingAbout 1.0 to 1.5 MPG increase over the last 1,200 miles of daily drive

I have an 1956 420 JD crawler, it was burning oil badly, first time I changed the oil it was pure sludge after sitting for a decade neglected. It kept fouling the plugs. I used this 2x, the first time I followed the directions. fouled the plugs after use the first time and had to clean them up to get it started (2 cylinder). It improved...slightly but still burned oil to about a quart every 5 gallons. I had great compression oddly, so I figured the plugs must still be sticking. I did not give it long enough to work. THE SECOND TIME I ran it again but this time drove it all over high throttle, got it nice and hot for 20 minutes. Fouled the plugs again but this time it is running much better. Less smoke, though I am sure I will need to keep topping off the oil the change in both performance and oil consumption is noticeable.

My wife drives a 2015 Honda CRV with 140K miles. Several months ago, I noticed it was losing oil, but I could find no leaks. I did some research online and found this is an issue with CRV’s of certain years, including the 15’s.The information I found on some of the Honda forums pointed to stuck piston rings, which allows for oil to blow by, and then be burned in the cylinder. I checked the inside edge of the tailpipe on our CRV and sure enough, found remnants of oil.Many owners experiencing the oil loss issue suggested using BG EPR. It was said to remove deposits and free up the rings on the pistons which would then solve (or improve) the oil loss issue. I used the EPR product per the instructions, relaced with fresh oil and filter, and added a can of the BG MOA oil additive.It has been 2 weeks, and roughly 800 miles. The oil level has remained the same over this period, but I’m not convinced at this point BG fixed the issue. I think it will take a few thousand miles before I know for sure. What I can tell you for certain is this, the oil is so clean, I have had a difficult time reading the level on the dipstick. I mean, it is as clear as it was coming directly out of the bottle. It’s crazy. At first, I thought it was a quart low, but after closer inspection, oil was in fact showing on the stick, but it was so clean it was hard to see. This product absolutely cleaned things up internally. That I have no doubt.Additional note: BG EPR is very strong stuff. I wanted to be sure that I got all of it out of the engine before replacing with new oil and filter. So, when I drained the oil (containing BG EPR), I refilled the engine with Walmart brand synthetic oil and a $5 Napa oil filter. Then I went out and drove the car for about 30 minutes. Then I drained the oil, removed the filter, and refilled engine with Valvoline Synthetic and a Napa Gold filter. Some may consider this extra step as going overboard and costly, but I wanted to get all of the BG product out of the engine before refilling with clean oil.