MakerHawk 6pcs Optical Endstop With 1M Cable Switch Sensor Photoelectric Light Control Limit Switch Module for 3D Printer

Fantastic little switches. I use them on my DIY 3D printers. Cool part is that 3D model is available on printables so it is easy to integrate on your own printer.

I used these for endstops on 2 custom built delta-style 3D printers that run Klipper; the repeatability is very good, but I also use a slow homing speed. delta printers require precise endstops for good calibration, and these fit that requirement very well and at a great price.

I used two optical sensor to replace a single GL-8H proximity sensor, along with a TMC2208 for driving Z2. 3D printer is a Fokoos Odin 5 F3. Settings were changed in LCD, to enable Z2, ZMAX endstop as Z2MIN, and endstop triggers open. Cable wiring was modified at one end, by swapping pins 1 and 3 on each sensor. Trigger indicator LEDs were used to set Z initial height to paper thickness, with printer powered on but not homed. Care was taken to insure bed was parallel to X gantry. First Z home was perfect.Very pleased how easy it was to mount switches by making a model for 20mm extrusion mount. The optical sensor is only 11mm high vs 30mm for GL-8H. It was not possible to mount a GL-8H on left side due to, so optical switch made my upgrade possible.I plan to purchase additional optical sensors to replace micro switches on more printers.

Bought these for use with a solar panel sun tracker as motion endstops. Testing went perfect indoors, then failed to register the endstop when used outside. Terrible crunchy fail.!! Will have to change to mech switch.

Got these for my Elegoo Neptune 3D printers, simple pin switch on the cable and these plug right in and work flawlessly. Removes friction allowing me to crank up the flow. The printed cases I put these in help block light leakage, increasing the different types and colors of filaments these pick up.

Using this to detect when a push/pull solenoid has moved to its rear most position so I can then de-energize the solenoid. Works perfectly and better than a hall sensor. Solenoids move rather quickly compared to stepper motors but this device can handle the job.

Worked absolutely as expected, though the filament has to be further down in the sensor gap than first expected. I didn't have any detection of an obstruction except for the last 1mm of space, so it was a little finnicky during initial testing but once I found the sweet spot it was perfect. Easily connected to a Raspberry Pi 4 with 5v, ground, and a GPIO pin. Could also easily run on 3.3v but I was using a straight 3-pint connector and wanted to use pins 4, 6, and 8 directly. Didn't appear to have any issues with this detecting PLA, which some optical sensors I've tested previously fail to detect.

1. While it will provide logical high and low, it is not limited to this output.It will provide analog output between 0-5v depending on how obstructed the intra red receiver is.2. Printer paper lets more IR light though than I thought. Almost transparent. I resolved this by adding a second strip over the light. Definitely wont be a problem for most people.